Hey guys, I am new to this forum and hondas. I just bought a 96 prelude si h23a1 from a guy that said it needed a head gasket. I did the head gasket and now I am getting fuel and no spark. Turns over all day. I read a lot on these forums about what it could be and i am lost. This is what i have done already to it. I retraced my steps to make sure all grounds and plugs are where they need to be, new igniter, new coil, new head gasket, new starter. My uncle (a mechanic) was thinking maybe the crank sensor was bad, tested the wires (4 of them red, green, blue, white) and all seem to be grounds. no juice when key is turned. Is that normal? Any ideas would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Plus, I was thinking about the main relay or getting a whole new distributor but figured I would see what any of you guys think first. I don't want to spend the money I don't have on parts I don't need.
ok, I am going to get a new main relay this weekend but you mentioned about testing the ecu. How would I go about doing that, and how much would an ecu cost?
ok so i got a new main relay for the car and it didn't do anything. anyone know how i can check the ecm? plus getting no spark from coil. getting power to coil though. i was looking at how to test the coil and it says something about resistance between A and B but i dont have a B on the 4 prong harness, only an A, C, and D. is that normal?
Odds of it being a ECU problem are about zero. The same was true for the main relay, but I was apparently too late for that one. That was wasted money,randomly replacing a part (that by the way was unrelated to the problem) isn't going to fix it.
Follow the troubleshooting procedures in the manual and you should be able to track it down.
Did you check G101? it's that ground at the around the thermostat housing or under the VTEC Solenoid. check the voltage with a meter should be less than 1.0v.
plus, I was looking in the helms manual to test the crank sensor and it says to disconnect the 8p wiring harness on the distributor but the 2 harnesses that I have are not 8p. One is a 4p and the other for the ignition output sensor is 2p. and suggestions?
On models with single-coil ignition systems, if the
engine cranks but there’s no spark at the plugs, check the
ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module
[igniter]) by using this procedure:
NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can vary
between models, so use the appropriate ETM to ID them.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL
(malfunction indicator lamp).
• If the MIL doesn’t come on, or it comes on and
stays on, refer to MIL Basics on this page.
• If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then goes
off, go to step 2.
2. Check for battery voltage at the positive wire going
to the coil, and at the positive wire going to the ICM.
• If you have battery voltage, go to step 3.
• If you don’t have battery voltage, check for an
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and the
coil.
3. Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative terminal
and ground, and record the cranking voltage two ways:
first with the wire between the coil and ICM connected,
then with it disconnected.
• If you get about 8 V with the wire connected and
10 V with it disconnected, install a new coil, and
retest.
• If you get about 10 V with the wire connected and
disconnected, install a new ICM, and retest.
Ya, I have already changed out the icm and the coil. the only thing I can think of now would be the crank sensor. If I put a new cap, rotor, and icm in the distributor could the distributor/housing it self still be bad like a broken wire in it and cause this or is that highly unlikely?
My buddy said that it could also maybe be a cam sensor. Could that be a possibility or do you guys think I should stick with the crank sensor? And there is no oil dripping anywhere on the car. It is bone dry.
all the grounds are fine and tested. But while taking the distributor apart, I noticed that the green power wire in the housing was exposed. This could cause it to ark and loose power in the distributor right? so I should buy a new distributor or housing?
that's what i figured. i found a reman for 250 and 70 core, but i ordered a new one from same place for 240. any one know why a new one is cheaper than a reman?
be sure that ecu ground under thermostat housing on left side of dizzy is connected. i had same problem after head work. cranked all day with no start,replaced alot of un necessary parts and then found wire hanging.after connecting it she started right up and still runs.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
