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Old 05-05-2007, 11:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3 inch drop problems

does any one know where i can get a shorter steering knuckle?
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Old 05-05-2007, 11:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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good luck. why a 3" drop?
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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3" is way to much im sure you will scrape on every thing
and i mean everything
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Old 05-06-2007, 10:50 AM   #4 (permalink)
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do you really need to drop that much just for looks???

btw i'm sure you would either have to custom fab it, or see if the accord is similar and measure that one.
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Old 05-06-2007, 02:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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why do you need a shorter steering knuckle??? i never had any problems with mine...and i was slammed
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Old 05-06-2007, 11:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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why do you need a shorter steering knuckle??? i never had any problems with mine...and i was slammed
what type of camber kit did you have?
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Old 05-06-2007, 11:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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^i didnt

and a picture for reference on how low i was
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Old 05-07-2007, 02:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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that really doesn't look that bad.....what size tires are those?
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Damn Jared, glad you aren't that way now. Look at the wheels in the rear
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Old 05-07-2007, 11:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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what type of camber kit did you have?
When you are lowered that low you can't correct the camber very much. If you do, the upper control arm will hit the inner fender. The only solution to that is to modifiy the fender for clearance.
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Old 05-07-2007, 11:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The 4g/5g suspension doesn't have that much travel- when you get down to a 3" drop or so you probably only have an inch or so before you are on the bump stops, not to mention that you are probably close to the subframe member as well.
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Old 05-07-2007, 11:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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that really doesn't look that bad.....what size tires are those?
225-50-15
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Damn Jared, glad you aren't that way now. Look at the wheels in the rear
yea....now im at about a 1 finger gap all the way around
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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When you are lowered that low you can't correct the camber very much. If you do, the upper control arm will hit the inner fender. The only solution to that is to modifiy the fender for clearance.
or get a shorter spindle so that you can bring the upper arm down more for more travel and then use a spc adjustable balljoint to fix the 2.98 degrees of camber thats off. here is the spindles. http://www.heldmotorsports.com/Honda/index.htm
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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^i didnt

and a picture for reference on how low i was
how did you get a jack under the car? do you have one of those indie car jacks? or do you jack it up from the back and go in with another jack to the front. those spindles are $578.00 for the front btw if any body was wondering.
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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or get a shorter spindle so that you can bring the upper arm down more for more travel and then use a spc adjustable balljoint to fix the 2.98 degrees of camber thats off. here is the spindles. http://www.heldmotorsports.com/Honda/index.htm
Do that place make knuckles for preludes?

Maybe I'm wrong but just by looking at that design if you were to have a shorter knuckle arm you run risk of the upper control arm touching the wheel. The prelude knuckle arm curves in to clear the wheel then curves back out. Maybe if the arms were designed just perfect to line up with the balljoint on the upper arm. If not they would need to make an adjustable upper arm as well to match with it. I haven't seen either for the prelude.

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Old 05-08-2007, 07:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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There are number of problems here...

Notice that place doesn't sell Prelude ones. My guess is that they don't and never will. They may, anyone with a CNC machine can do it, but for the limited number of units they would sell they may not be willing to do the R&D that would be required.

You can get any of a variety of camber kits (ball joint kits) that will allow you to correct for some of the camber of that much of a drop. With new-geometry spindles you could make a greater drop with less of a camber shift. What you can't correct for is the extreme angle on the CV jounts (a 2" drop will cause axles/boots to not last much more than 20-30k miles), the extreme angle on the tie rods, or the lack of wheel-to-fender and chassis-to ground clearance. If you don't mind shredding tires, scraping everything on the bottom of the car, chewing up the front lip, and never being able to go over speed bumps... go for it.

I personally think a better solution would be to bag the car or just go get a Civic and do the different knuckles and so forth. A slammed car better fits with the stereotypical civic crowd anyhow.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Todd, has a point. That site is selling those dropped spindles that were made many, many years ago. IIRC, Ryane was bought out by Storm. I suppose Storm is still making these. This was probably 7 or 8 years ago. Interesting that the site still shows the Ryane pieces. Nevertheless, they're for Civics, and probably will not work well with a Prelude.

Did anyone notice:
Quote:
IMPORTANT WHEEL FITMENT NOTICE:
A minimum of 15" wheels are required. Maximum wheel back side spacing is 143mm (5 5/8"). The back side spacing is measured from the wheel mounting surface to the innermost edge of the wheel rim. The dimensions above INCLUDE the tire bulge, if any.

Wheel size examples to be used as a rough guide:
7" wide with up to 41mm positive off-set
7.5" wide with up to 35mm positive off-set
8" wide with up to 28mm positive off-set
I'm running 15x8 +40mm offset wheels right now (not including the tire bulge mentioned above), and my tires are very close to the fender. I couldn't imagine pushing them out another 12mm!! If I account for the "tire buldge" I'd probably have to move them out 25mm or 1". There's no way the tires would fit under the fenders.
http://www.preludeonline.com/showthread.php?t=218360
http://www.preludeonline.com/showthread.php?t=218066



I've toyed around with the idea of trying to see if Civic knuckles will fit a Prelude, but the issue is that if they do, the knuckle will likely be shorter, which will alter the angle of the upper control arm relative to the lower control arm, which could degrade suspension performance significantly.

One thing to keep in mind that the lowest part of the car appears to be the front tow hook (the middle one), header, and front subframe where the lower control arms attach. That's the stuff you're going to tear up first if you lower. If you try to keep the car from bottoming by using excessively high spring rates, shock damping, or bumpstops, you're going to find the ride is terrible, as everything will have to be so stiff to keep the car from bottoming. It certainly won't make for a well behaved car. It might look cool, but it'll be a handful to drive.

With a 3" drop, suspension travel will be the least of your worries.

Last edited by 71dsp; 05-08-2007 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:58 AM   #18 (permalink)
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IIRC the Civic ball joints are a different size so you would have to do something there. I think everything else is generally in the right place. Wheel bearings and the required hole for the CV are probably off, too.

Something to keep in mind is that someone has to prototype these things on the car and figure out the geometry change to get the camber back in check (or closer to 0), proper wheel alignment under the fender, etc., etc.

As Billy mentioned- the side-effects will be so bad that driving it like this would be terrible. I'd find a way to bag the car and do that if you insist on having it low for looks. There is CERTAINLY no reason to make it that low for handling/performance. Ask Billy or DR. I think their cars handle just fine and even with 1000lb springs they aren't that low.
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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my car is nowhere near as low as it was, it was the worst ride of my life. there is really no need to lower it THAT much. just keep it simple
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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ok first of all i already have my car that low and i know how the ride is. the prelude knuckle is the same as the civic del sol. accord is the one that is different. the only thing that i'm not sure of is the ball joints. but if the knuckle are the same in all three cars then so should the ball joint holes. the wheels and tires i'm pretty sure will work, there 16x7 rota slipstreams with a +40 offset and 205/40/r16. i can deal with the cv joints there only about 34 dollars when you give the core back. other than that i think it should work.
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