HoundDog

Son-In-Laws 1992 Prelude 2.2 stalled when leaving for work last week and would not start. I checked for spark which I had, I pulled the plugs and they were fouled with gas. Took a compression test #1 95 lbs. #2 150 lbs. #3 150 lbs. #4 150 lbs. I then checked fuel pressure at the right side of the fuel rail (standing in front of the car looking at the windshield) I had 42 lbs of pressure. I was told by a friend that the regulated pressure was too high and should be around 25 lbs. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, I also put in 4 new spark plugs. The fuel pressure is now 25 lbs with the new regulator. The engine started right up and idles fine. The problem that followed was that when you put the car in gear and press the throttle down the engine will bog and stall. In neutral if you mat the throttle it has a slight lag but will race up. Without any diagnostic tools I assumed the problem was the TPS which I installed a new one and claibrated as per instuctions in the packaging. Still I have this problem, it is kind of reminiscent of an old carbureted engine that has a bad accelerator pump. If you ease the throttle down it will respond but if you hit it hard it bogs and stalls. Once the engine stalls it doesn't want to re start, and like I said, once you put it in gear it is worse, as soon as you touch the gas pedal it wants to stall.

At this point any help or guidance would be very much appreciated.

Thanks ... HoundDog

boyasaurus

I woulda also, think it was the TPS. close .5? wot is 4.5? Also trying changing your map sensor and main relay.

HoundDog

Yes I installed the TPS and set the closed throttle position at .5 volts, the wide open position voltage is about 4.8 volts. I don't think that .3 volts on the wop would make a difference but I might be wrong, seems like it is almost impossible to get the ctp and wop synchronized as stated on the data sheet. If I set the wot at exactly 4.5 v then the ctp will not be .5 v, so I set the closed position at .5 v. What is puzzling is that if the engine stalls it will not re-start unless you let it sit for some time. ????? But when it is running it runs too good to have jumped timing on the belt, thinking it might be a distributor module but without the proper diagnostic tools I can't keep buying parts that don't have any effect on the problem, it gets to be too expensive. Thanks for your input.

HoundDog

boyasaurus

You should be good where the TPS is at. Wait what? When its running good, it jumped timing on the belt? Wish we live closer, I have a Snap On Ethos Scanner. Try this, ok you have new TPS, clean your IACV good, clean your EGR Valve if you have one, clean your 02 sensor. Do those easy task. Then check every individual plug see you getting spark. Unplug a plug, plug it to your spark plug wire, start it. Do the same to others. See if it still bogs.

HoundDog

OK thanks I removed and cleaned the IACV the screen was plugged with carbon. The engine doesn't stall now when trying to start out. It is however very sluggish until the engine rpm's increase to about 1200 rpm then it accelerates normally. You can't make jack rabbit starts but he is able to drive it now, that's all I care about. Thanks for the help it is much appreciated.

I did not say that the timing belt had jumped, someone told me the reason I had the problem that I had was because the belt had jumped one tooth. I was just saying that when the engine is running it runs to good for that to have happened.


HoundDog