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Old 01-28-2011, 01:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Why does my car's rpm spike after 4000 rpm

I drive a 2000 honda prelude base, that's an automatic. As i drive and give it the gas before or sometimes at the vtec the rpms spike all the way past the redline. It feels as the car is being pulled. Mods- Full exhaust and intake
Oil changed, Fuel filter new, oil filter new, spark plugs 5k miles on them.
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Tranny is dying. Why did you buy a Sissy-Stick?
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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something is slipping.
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Trust me i wouldnt have gotten a automatic, i love standards but it was my first car from a dealership, n this car is a beauty. It couldn't be something slipping because if it was the tranny it would rpm high and then grab its not doing that. Its more like I'm giving it the gas all the way when it hits 4000 rpms it would spike to 5-7 but it would be jumping back in forth, but while going up it will fill like its been held back like if the Emergency breaks would be on kinda feeling.
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Old 01-29-2011, 11:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If the RPM's go up and the car isn't going faster your tranny is slipping plain and simple. The auto's in these car's are complete junk in 99% of all cases. They don't last like a Honda tranny should and are not nearly as reliable as the 5spd.


As for buying a car from a dealer, IMOP, that is a big no no unless the car is brand new and never been owned (used). I'll only buy private party for many reasons when getting a used car. Only bought 2 cars from a dealer. My 96 Si brand new and my 09 Civic brand new. My other 8 Honda's were used and bought private party. 1 of which I flew to Denver to get. Another was a 300 plus mile drive one way. But that's just me.
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Honda4Life View Post
As for buying a car from a dealer, IMOP, that is a big no no unless the car is brand new and never been owned (used). I'll only buy private party for many reasons when getting a used car. Only bought 2 cars from a dealer. My 96 Si brand new and my 09 Civic brand new. My other 8 Honda's were used and bought private party. 1 of which I flew to Denver to get. Another was a 300 plus mile drive one way. But that's just me.
Sir, that is called logic, which most people don't possess.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Alright lets get this straight so everyone can understand...Step 1: I step on gas, Step 2: moves on up, ( let me know if i lost you ) Step 3: car keeps going to the vtec turns on ( do note this i am using slap stick aka nany stick?)Step 4: the car keeps increasing speed but as if the car is being held back by an brake....(the car does not increase speed and keeps reving), it does increase speed but the needle, so to say jiggles?...and so you guys will also know i bought the car at age 17 from the dealer in 08 so i could start building my credit n also didnt come as " AS IS " it came with 24k mile coverage over tranny n engine...sorry guys i don't drive sissy Hybrids
I hope it cleared up, i know i didnt add the part where it still increased...

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Old 01-30-2011, 01:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RookieOnPrelude View Post
Alright lets get this straight so everyone can understand...Step 1: I step on gas, Step 2 to moves on up, ( let me know if i lost you ) Step 3: car keeps going to the vtec turns on ( do note this i am using slap stick aka nany stick?)Step 4: the car keeps increasing speed but as if the car is being held back by an brake....(the car does not increase speed and keeps reving), it does increase speed but the needle, so to say jiggles?...and so you guys will also know i bought the car at age 17 from the dealer in 08 so i could start building my credit n also didnt come as " AS IS " it came with 24k mile coverage over tranny n engine...sorry guys i don't drive sissy Hybrids
I hope it cleared up, i know i didnt add the part where it still increased...
Yes you did. To moves on up? WTF?

Using the slap stick will only shorten the life of the auto tranny on these cars sorry to say.

As for the needle "so to say jiggles", is it showing you it is slipping IMOP as it can't/won't hold the power of the motor. Even if the tranny is slipping the car will continue to speed up but not as fast as it should. Do the RPM's stil go up and if so it is quicker than they should as the car has trouble speeding up?

Hope your still within your 24K mileage coverage but even if you are I bet too much time has passed.

Have you ever changed the tranny fluid and if so what did you use and how was it done? Drain and fill or a flush method?
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Rebuilt tranny, I'm guessing flushed. And believe it or not I'm still in that range where it still covers both. 85k mileage so far...The Car keeps moving increasing in speed but after the vtec kicks in, the needle starts to freak during or after vtec n then starts misfiring. The car also has black residue as if the car is running to rich...recently changed 02 sensor. no codes have been brought up since i changed the 02.

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Old 01-30-2011, 08:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Flushed. Thats' a HUGE no no for Honda tranny's. Take it in.

See the tranny holds the power fime when not in VTEC but, then the car hits VTEC which it them makes more power. Tranny can't hold it and slip.

What octane fuel do you run?
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm not very sure its either 91 or 93 but it is Premium. I live in Texas if that tells u which kind. Also would u think its the Rotor or the cap. As well as the spark plugs and wires? I ran Ngk iridium, im not sure if those are the kind im supposed to have but that's what the stupid guy from auto zone said were good.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Re-read the very first response.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Re-read response #4 and# 7 or if that takes to much time...I had gotten the car at age 17 so i can build my credit and they didn't have any other car i liked and i needed it for school cuz i wrecked my previous car getting rear ended. I'm sorry that doesn't make you happy so how about hoppin of my nads about the Standard or not and try helping for once kronn or how ever u spell it.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I believe its possible you have an ignition/signal issue. Check and see if you cant get the rotor and cap replaced, and make sure your tach read is plugged in correctly. Generally, regardless if you drive an SS or standard, When you start putting a load on your engine and the tachometer starts to flutter and surge (your engine is sorta sneezing in a way) its your ignition not getting your spark to your combustion chambers on time or not enough spark at all.

I had the same issue on my h22a4, just these past 3 months. The culprit is more than likely your Rotor/Cap (distributor). Hopefully you can just R+R your cap and rotor & call it a day... but its possible it may be your entire distributor assembly.

Nordic97mist had the exact same issue with his prelude, but he probably had other, serious issues with his h22 as I did... so we both got JDM H22As. Problem removed =) lol. Give the rotor/cap a try, and check to make sure there arent any leaks/interruptions between the distributor and your ECU (follow the wiring and check all your sensor plugs). If you dont find an issue there, then Kronn is most likely correct. Our SS trannies are, to put it bluntly... Garbage. They arent trustworthy pieces of equipment.

If you love your prelude and really dont want to let her go for a better commuter vehicle... I strongly suggest you throw down a grand or two and do a 5 speed manual swap. That slap stick is a ticking time bomb.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Slap a grand or two for just a swap? lol i thought it would be more like 4 or 5 to take it somewhere. or by one or two do u mean doing it myself? And when u said rotor n cap just them not the whole assembly right?
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If it was misfiring, it would throw a CEL code. A swap could easily be done for under $2k with a shop doing all the labor.

It's your crappy transmission slipping. Deal with it.

You've had 3 different knowledgeable members tell you that now. How many more do you need to tell you the same thing before you stop denying it? If you are just going to argue with everyone that offers an answer to your question, why did you even ask?
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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My distributor was the culprit, not to mention my plugs were completely fouled from running so rich and the car having run so long with a failed knock sensor. It was missing like a mofo for 2 months, never threw a code once Indy. His may not have thrown a code, just like mine. The symptoms are so similar to Nordic97mist and my situation to ignore the possibility it could be the ignition system.

All Im saying is check that first before you assume its the more expensive problem. If that doesn't solve it, then you're out of luck and it was your POS auto tranny slipping. I strongly suggest giving what Honda4life suggested a try. He's one of the few bb6 owners who always stays up to date and does an immaculate job of keeping his car in pristine condition. Look at his POTM thread. You can see he doesn't have a wild build list, his car is just so gosh darn CLEAN. Give the tranny a change of ATF (Use Honda ATF, PLEASE!!!) and see if that doesn't improve your situation at all.
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Ive been reading a lil on some stuff over the car, goes from ignition coil, rotor, cap, plugs n wires but for now ill change some of the stuff that should be changed cause i know ill end up changing in the future might as well do it now. And to be honest the Plug wires look a lil burnt and plugs r foul...I'm going to switch out the rotor, plugs, and wires. Then from there if the car isn't running better. Ill take you guys word and taking this car to the shop so they can fork up the warranty and fix my flippin car.
If anyone knows wat kind of plugs i should get hit me up some suggestions.
I'm currently using NGK iridium.
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:05 PM   #19 (permalink)
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All Im saying is check that first before you assume its the more expensive problem.
Why? The tranny is covered under warranty. Why change the ATF either? All that will do is mask the real problem and maybe get the tranny to last a little longer (possibly until the warranty expires) then it will break. They all break eventually. From the look of things, the OP's tranny has already died once.


It the rev's jump (go up) rapidly during acceleration, that isn't because of a misfire. The the rev's drop off (go down) quickly, hesitate, or go nuts and start causing backfires...then it could be the ignition. Also, all H22's run rich from the factory and leave black crap all over the bumper, so that doesn't prove misfiring.

Either way OP, why are you doing anything at all yourself? If your car is really still covered under warranty, just take it to the dealer and let them fix it. You already paid for a warranty, use it.
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Old 01-31-2011, 09:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Why? The tranny is covered under warranty. Why change the ATF either? All that will do is mask the real problem and maybe get the tranny to last a little longer (possibly until the warranty expires) then it will break. They all break eventually. From the look of things, the OP's tranny has already died once.


It the rev's jump (go up) rapidly during acceleration, that isn't because of a misfire. The the rev's drop off (go down) quickly, hesitate, or go nuts and start causing backfires...then it could be the ignition. Also, all H22's run rich from the factory and leave black crap all over the bumper, so that doesn't prove misfiring.

Either way OP, why are you doing anything at all yourself? If your car is really still covered under warranty, just take it to the dealer and let them fix it. You already paid for a warranty, use it.
All of that is true, correct and spot on.

Now end the thread until you come back and tell us what the dealer found was wrong.
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