The air bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing, that has to be opened when you're filling in the coolant into the radiator, correct?
And coolant will leak out of the air bleed valve in a steady stream when the air is out, and you're supposed to close the air bleed valve after that. When the coolant spills out, are't you basically getting all this coolant slipping all over the thermostate housing and leaking everywhere, creating a big mess? Isn't this a bad idea cuz coolant is corrosive, right?
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Black 2001 5-spd
I/H/Hi-flowCat/E/P/VAFC/DC Short Shifter
Eibach Prokit/KYB AGX/Neuspeed front strut brace/Tanabe rear strut brace/Suspension Techniques rear sway
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
I don't use the bleeder. I fill the radiator, fill the overflow bottle, let it idle for 5 minutes, let it cool, and then check the coolant level. I also double check the level the next day after I've done some driving. Haven't had trouble getting it filled. That bleeder is a bloody mess to deal with.
Originally posted by sharkcohen I don't use the bleeder. I fill the radiator, fill the overflow bottle, let it idle for 5 minutes, let it cool, and then check the coolant level. I also double check the level the next day after I've done some driving. Haven't had trouble getting it filled. That bleeder is a bloody mess to deal with.
shark, is there any problems since air is probably in the coolant system?
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Black 2001 5-spd
I/H/Hi-flowCat/E/P/VAFC/DC Short Shifter
Eibach Prokit/KYB AGX/Neuspeed front strut brace/Tanabe rear strut brace/Suspension Techniques rear sway
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
I can't see why the bleed valve is all that big of a deal. Fill the radiator, untorque the bleed valve, wait til a steady flow comes out (no bubbles) close it, retorque to specs and drop a cup of water on top of the bleed valve. Regardless you're going to be double and triple checking the radiator fluid level so either way works.
There is a bolt in the block that you remove to drain the block. It's in the helms if you want to do it.
Alternatively, after you have filled the rad with the bleed screw open and you want to ensure there is no air in the system, take off the rad cap and start the car (from cold) and watch the bubbles come out of the rad. Just top off the fluid when it drops. I suggest waiting for about 2 fan cycles or until the bubbles stop.
There shouldn't be a problem doing it sharks way. How did people change their coolant before bleaders? Ans. ->Sharks way.
If you presurize the coolant (warm up the car) the air goes right to the top.
To flush out all the old coolant... I drain out the old stuff, fill up with water, run it through a few fan cycles, drain and repeat until clear water comes out.
Originally posted by Paluce There shouldn't be a problem doing it sharks way. How did people change their coolant before bleaders? Ans. ->Sharks way.
If you presurize the coolant (warm up the car) the air goes right to the top.
that is exactly the problem, and why honda puts the bleed valve in- that is the high point in our cooling system. many older cars,m in the day of square grilles have the radiator at the top of the system, so a bleed valve wasn't needed.
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