I have an escort gt2 timer, and when I first tried it I was hitting 60 in 6.5 to 6.8 with 1/8 mile times at 9.7 to 9.8, I was not happy with this so I kept practicing my launches and trying different things, and I have come to realize it's all in the launch my times dropped to 5.9 to 6.2 with 1/8 miles times at 9.4-9.6 my mods include cai, greddy evo, pullies, exedy clutch
Yeah, i have a G-tech pro too, and i get slow numbers like that, of course I live at such a high altitute its very understandable. But my times are usually mid 7's
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high altitude= low hp. Be happy sea level people...
I think Motor Trend or Car and Driver listed the 0-60 at "close to 7 seconds". I think I have seen magazine writups put it as low as 6.5 for the bone stock 5 speed.-type SH because that seems to be all that the big magazines tested. 0-60 depends a lot more on how much low end power you have. I think that a lude with the stock air intake or a short ram would be slightly better than a CAI, when it comes to 0-60 that is. From what I've heard, the CAI gives more power at the high end.
I doubt that a CAI vs SR makes much difference. The CAI works better up high in the RPM range, regardless of speed. Since you go to redline in 1st and 2nd in a 0-60 run the CAI will help you more from maybe 5000-7400 while the SR would benefit you in the lower RPM ranges.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Originally posted by fmshaw1971 I doubt that a CAI vs SR makes much difference. The CAI works better up high in the RPM range, regardless of speed. Since you go to redline in 1st and 2nd in a 0-60 run the CAI will help you more from maybe 5000-7400 while the SR would benefit you in the lower RPM ranges.
Maybe you could help me in my decision of SR vs. CAI. I live in a large metropolitan area with tons of lights. I very rarely even have the room to get into vtec, and most of my driving is short shifts in the low rpms. IYO, would I benefit more from a SR, or should I stick with the stock intake? BTW, I don't drag/autocross at all. This is my daily driver and I can't take any chances of breaking something.
The best of all worlds is a short ram with a fairly big cold air box. That is what I am planning to build as soon as I relocate my battery.
For you, the best choice sounds like a Type S intake. It is stock (JDM) and gives you more torque and power down low while also being pretty quiet. Just get that and a high flow filter for it and you should see gains down low. It's not flashy so don't expect anyone to open you hood and see any difference.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Where does the air filter sit on a short ram? I've only seen installation pics of CAI's. Does it go as far as behind the battery/against the inner fender/where the resonator box is? Or, does it stop short of where the battery is? Also, (I haven't done a search, so please don't yell) What are the components of a cold air box? Is it only a box to shield the warm air coming from the engine? Made of metal or plastic? I work at a display company and we have a model shop. Therefore, I have about 5 model makers that could fabricate something for me. We have a ton on raw materials here.
The filter for a SRI sits directly on top of the hole through which the stock resonator tube passes which is right beside the battery. It is pretty far forward, not near the wheel well. Search for pictures to show you exactly where it sits.
The purpose of a cold air box is to give you a large volume of cold air that is right there for quick throttle response. CAIs take longer to draw this air in because it has to come from further away and the tube has more bends. That is generally why SRIs perform better than CAIs down low. The benefit of the cold air box is that this air is also cold, unlike a standard SRI which draws air in from the hot engine bay.
To function properly, the cold air box must be reasonably well sealed and fairly large. More important, however, the inlet source for the cold air box should be at least as large as your intake tube. If you just use the stock resonator hole to feed your cold air box, you will get no better performance than the stock intake because that small hole limits how much air you can draw in.
When I make my box, I plan to enlarge the stock resonator hole, and also to add a second source from the foglight opening. This will ensure that I always have more air in the cold air box than my short ram intake can use.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Originally posted by fmshaw1971 The filter for a SRI sits directly on top of the hole through which the stock resonator tube passes which is right beside the battery. It is pretty far forward, not near the wheel well. Search for pictures to show you exactly where it sits.
The purpose of a cold air box is to give you a large volume of cold air that is right there for quick throttle response. CAIs take longer to draw this air in because it has to come from further away and the tube has more bends. That is generally why SRIs perform better than CAIs down low. The benefit of the cold air box is that this air is also cold, unlike a standard SRI which draws air in from the hot engine bay.
To function properly, the cold air box must be reasonably well sealed and fairly large. More important, however, the inlet source for the cold air box should be at least as large as your intake tube. If you just use the stock resonator hole to feed your cold air box, you will get no better performance than the stock intake because that small hole limits how much air you can draw in.
When I make my box, I plan to enlarge the stock resonator hole, and also to add a second source from the foglight opening. This will ensure that I always have more air in the cold air box than my short ram intake can use.
You just answered every question I could ever come up with about that topic! Danke Schoen!
Not to keep going off the subject of the thread, but what about using a short ram and installing those "louver" type things to get more cold outside air above the filter? Kinda like the ones on the mid 90's Pontiac Grand Prix Turbos? Anyone know what I'm talking about? You'd just have to cut holes in the hood and place them above where the SR filter is...and then one on the other side so it looks even? Just a thought.
Yes that will work even better as long as it isn't raining--that's the problem. Ideally you would have a NACA duct right above the intake ramming air directly into your intake. Of course, it will also ram rain right into it. If you were strictly racing, this cannot be beaten, but it's not for a daily driver. I suppose that you could build some type of a water catch into it so the water wouldn't go directly into the intake, but I think it would still soak it pretty well.
How do they keep water out of the intakes on the Ram Air Trans Am's then? I'm trying to think of other cars that I've seen this done straight from the factory, but I can't think of any more. I'll take a look on car domain and see if I can find some pics....cause I think I might be on to something with a little fabrication......
Unfortunately you guys have it all wrong, CAI's add more torque than short ram intakes.
Short ram intakes work best at high RPM's. If you would stop and think about it it should be totally obvious. At 7-10k RPM's your motor needs a lot of air QUICKLY, that is why the short pipe performs so much better.
At lower RPM's, a cold air intake is the way to go. The long pipe increases the pressure differential from the throttle body to the air filter. Just like a 3" exhaust, too much airflow will kill your torque. Anyone heard of the AEM hump? That is a massive torque increase that occurs in the midrange of all AEM cold air intakes and is responsible for their entire reputation of producing the best gains.
I posted a thread a long time ago called "definitive guide to air intakes", do a search for it and read it. My current setup right now is a big chamber intake with a cold air extension. It is the best intake I have used, and I've gone through about 6 different varieties.
__________________ Prelude Tribute Videos Ver 1 and Ver 2
That may be what you have found with your mods, but it is not what the dyno graphs show. In independent tests in both Sport Compact Car and Import Tuner, CAIs make more hp in the higher RPMs. Short rams have a bigger power bulge down low in the dyno graph.
I'm not arguing the logic of what you are saying, just the real world results. The only problem with the dynos is that they test with the hood open and thus the short rams make more power than they would with the hood closed.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Last edited by fmshaw1971 : 02-26-2004 at 09:00 AM.
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Danke Schoen!
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