Originally posted by briton2k Turbo Lude SH, If you dont mind me asking I am curious on your VAFC settings. I just got mine dynoed yesterday and and way a little sketched out with how much we leaned it out. According to the wideband air fuel meter we had hooked up to it we had the air fuel just about perfect. I was putting down 171 whp and 138 ft lb torque. Not bad with only having I/H/E & P. I also have an 2001 Prelude so I want to compare mods and vafc settings. If you want to share them but dont want to post them you can e mail me @ cpcalkins@sc.rr.com.
Thanks,
Craig
I was getting around 170whp as well w/ I/E/MSD/V-AFC.
I've since changed the settings since I've been turbo but I still remember them.
After my vafc was installed, I got it professionally tuned. I figured like most, that the lower the vtec engagement, the better. Actually, after dynoing my car they told me that the vtec kicks in better when you raise it. Right now mine kicks in at 6000 rpms. I asked them why it is better to kick in at higher rpms and they told me that the vtec works better with momentum. So being that you have better momentum at higher rpms, it gives a better kick then if it were at 4000 rpms. Also I was told that vtec can only work over a certain band. That it only lasts for a certain amount of rpms. So that if it kicked in at say 4000 rpms, it won't last till redline. So if it only lasts for a certain amount, I'm guessing that it will work better with the momentum. In my case, when I left the place and felt the vtec when it kicked in at 6000, I can vouge that the kick was a lot stronger. It made the difference.
Originally posted by Prelude SH 2OOO After my vafc was installed, I got it professionally tuned. I figured like most, that the lower the vtec engagement, the better. Actually, after dynoing my car they told me that the vtec kicks in better when you raise it. Right now mine kicks in at 6000 rpms. I asked them why it is better to kick in at higher rpms and they told me that the vtec works better with momentum. So being that you have better momentum at higher rpms, it gives a better kick then if it were at 4000 rpms. Also I was told that vtec can only work over a certain band. That it only lasts for a certain amount of rpms. So that if it kicked in at say 4000 rpms, it won't last till redline. So if it only lasts for a certain amount, I'm guessing that it will work better with the momentum. In my case, when I left the place and felt the vtec when it kicked in at 6000, I can vouge that the kick was a lot stronger. It made the difference.
Well you see the reason everyone lowers their VTEC engagment point is to gain more midrange and a lot smoother power curve. You're actually losing power by raising your engagement point, of course, it kicks harder because your riding out your lo cams longer and your power curve is going flat, then it shoots up when VTEC comes on.
H22 lo cams start toi level off at around 4200 RPM's. Which means they stop making as much power. By 6000 RPM's they've probably gone almost flat by then.
Pertaining to my situation, they said that by tuning it to kick in higher after 3 runs of dynoing, that it produced the most overall power. HP and torque.
Now will our crappy OBD-II ECU de-tune the VAFC like it does to our bolt-ons...if so how do you resolve that...and...is it reccomended to have an FPR along with the VAFC, say a B&M or something like that...I have a lot of questions on this too.
Originally posted by Prelude SH 2OOO Pertaining to my situation, they said that by tuning it to kick in higher after 3 runs of dynoing, that it produced the most overall power. HP and torque.
You will gain absolutly no peak horsepower by lowring or raising yout VTEC engagement point. You gain the horsepower by cutting injector duration and effectivlely leaning out your rich running motor.
If it's taking someone 3 hours to tune your V-AFC and they're telling you that raising your VTEC point will increase your peak horsepower, I'd look into a alternative tuner.
Originally posted by hawks10 Now will our crappy OBD-II ECU de-tune the VAFC like it does to our bolt-ons...if so how do you resolve that...and...is it reccomended to have an FPR along with the VAFC, say a B&M or something like that...I have a lot of questions on this too.
Yes the ECU does start to detune the settings after a while. Just reset it every week and you'll be fine, you're probably doing this anyway. Somewhere on www.ntpog.org they've got a way to bypass the OBD-II learning and detuning capabilities. Check their for more info.
You don't need a FPR w/ the V-AFC or anytime really. You're actually trying to flow less fuel, not more. Unless your FI that is.
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Unless your FI that is.
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