I would really appreciate if someone would list for me anything else I may need to get that in my SH, such as any seals or anything I should order to refresh....or just in detail possibly how dificult this is going to be.
The one posted is from a 96 Type S, so if you did in fact get an identical engine, you should be fine. I'd replace the rear main seal and do a full timing belt job, especially considering they make no reference to actual engine mileage.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded 1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12, now being parted out
2006 S2000 (LBP) - purchased 6/16/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
I'm still not sure if there is anything I'm going to have to take off my current motor and put on this one? Like I said, I'm pretty noob when it comes to honda swaps....my lude is 98 SH.
One other note, I don't have to worry about emissions testing where I live, in case that will affect anything you tell me.
Looks mean nothing. There are only two differences between yours and the first one.
1) Yours is one year newer, being a 1997.
2) Yours has several parts that have been freshly spray painted.
Still no mention of mileage, and still the same wrong labeling, claiming that it has an LSD.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded 1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12, now being parted out
2006 S2000 (LBP) - purchased 6/16/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Looks mean nothing. There are only two differences between yours and the first one.
1) Yours is one year newer, being a 1997.
2) Yours has several parts that have been freshly spray painted.
Still no mention of mileage, and still the same wrong labeling, claiming that it has an LSD.
So far recommend full timing kit, rear main seal replacement. Anything else? I have a budget to do other things, but I'm doing the work my self and my time is rather short these days. It's a daily driver, not looking to build any more power than stock, just want to get it back on the road.
Will I need to take anything from my motor and swap to this one?
Last edited by delarocha33; 01-07-2013 at 05:11 PM.
Did you get a JDM type S engine? That's a pain in the butt. I had a chance to work on my friends car he did the same thing his car burned too much oil he bought a JDM type S motor tried to put into his type SH, a lot of wiring harnesses were different and since you have OBD2, the emmission is more strict. You also need to change distributor and what else.. the intake manifold did not fit.. but if you just put a type s motor in there, it will fail the emission. I believe you have to change the intake manifold. And more maybe. Basically when he finished the job properly he lost a lot of power out of that 220 hp engine.
I would recommend to just get a really nice USDM type SH motor and put a powercoated valve cover on it haha it's so much easier and less money
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded 1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12, now being parted out
2006 S2000 (LBP) - purchased 6/16/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Hmm that's what he went through by putting jdm type S motor. Actually he might have put a jdm obd1 h22a into 5th gen sh model. But he had to change some parts to get it emmission passed.
change valve seals and piston rings & bottom bearings while the engine is out. and new clutch of course. those are the main problems what you will face if not replaced
change valve seals and piston rings & bottom bearings while the engine is out. and new clutch of course. those are the main problems what you will face if not replaced
That's definately a lot more work than time I have to get in to. It's compression tested with good compression, I don't see a need to get into rings etc....
So far I have ordered
- rear main seal
- oil pan gasket
- clutch kit
- manual tensioner kit
- timing belt
Spark plugs and wires, all your coolant hoses and accessory belts.
I second the plugs, wires, and coolant hoses. Belts get replaced during a standard timing belt job.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded 1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12, now being parted out
2006 S2000 (LBP) - purchased 6/16/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
wheres 2 timing tensioners and water pump, cam seals and front main seal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by delarocha33
That's definately a lot more work than time I have to get in to. It's compression tested with good compression, I don't see a need to get into rings etc....
soon it starts to eat oil, a lot more what it should. I can almost guarantee that.
its good to change valve seals too, but usually its the pistons rings. with almost every swap/old vtec engine. its much easier to do that now than when the engine is in.
Is the wiring harness with my new engine going to work?
I read something about they are set up for right side driver......also read though that it will reach it just won't be able to go under the factory wire holders???
Swap over all the sensors from your current engine and use your current harness. That's the simplest route.
Replace the water pump, oil pump, and timing belt using OEM Honda parts. I would also recommend getting the manual timing belt tensioner conversion kit. The auto tensioner is a known weak point on the H22, and it will destroy your engine if it fails.
If budget isn't a big issues, also replace everything made of rubber you can get your hands on. Every seal/hose/cap/whatever is going to be easier to get to now with the engine out of the car than it will be once it's in the car.
As for rebuilding the engine....don't do that. If there is something wrong with it to the extent it needs rebuilt already, send it back.
If budget isn't a big issues, also replace everything made of rubber you can get your hands on. Every seal/hose/cap/whatever is going to be easier to get to now with the engine out of the car than it will be once it's in the car.
As for rebuilding the engine....don't do that. If there is something wrong with it to the extent it needs rebuilt already, send it back.
nobody can say it for sure if the "new" engine is low mileage one or not!
if you want to keep your car, its wise to open the engine one time and rebuild it. because you have to do it one time for sure in the future.
my swap engine supposed to be "60k mile"-one, but without changing all the seals it would be just big oil blender (without cover)! and now I probably have to do the piston rings. and this is 3 years after the swap... so it would have been MUCH easier to do whole rebuild before the swap than now when the engine is in!
Clutch couldn't hurt. Shouldn't need to do valve seals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeT
nobody can say it for sure if the "new" engine is low mileage one or not!
If it's an old crap engine.....send it back.
Getting it from ebay was not the best choice, but you can always dispute charges for receiving damaged goods.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeT
if you want to keep your car, its wise to open the engine one time and rebuild it. because you have to do it one time for sure in the future.
My original H22 made it 174,000 miles without a rebuild, and it was still running when I swapped it. It didn't have oil burning issues until after 160,000, presumably from worn valve seals. That time in the future when it needs a rebuild should be way in the future.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeT
my swap engine supposed to be "60k mile"-one, but without changing all the seals it would be just big oil blender (without cover)! and now I probably have to do the piston rings. and this is 3 years after the swap... so it would have been MUCH easier to do whole rebuild before the swap than now when the engine is in!
I'd say you got a bad engine.
If you are going to do a rebuild, why buy another engine for a swap? Just rebuild the original. The biggest problem with a rebuild is that it's not easy to find a machine shop with the tooling and the knowledge to hone FRM without screwing it up. For most people it will probably require shipping the engine a long distance to get it done right, which will waste a bunch of time and money on freight shipping.
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