I've been having this debate with my friend as to whether a sway bar being hollow is better than being solid... My friend swears that hollow is better because it saves weight... he has the neuspeed sway bar for his audi a4 and he says since its hollow its better...
Also is the Sus Tech rear sway bar hollow or solid?
__________________ 98 Honda Prelude TypeSH
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AEM CAI w/By-Pass, Thermal R&D Exhaust, Rota Subzeros 17x7.5, H&R Race Springs, Neuspeed/Koni Shocks, ST Rear Sway Bar, OEM Front Lip, OEM Side Skirts, Mugen Rear Skirt, Leather Interior, 50% Tint, Sparco Racing Pedals, Clear Corners, 2 12" Infinity Perfects, JBL BP 1200.1, 1 Farad Digital Cap, Dynamat, Remote Start
In most cases hollow tubing (like a sway or strut bar) is lighter, stiffer, and stronger. Thats just what I've noticed, I'd assume it would hold true w/ sway bars as well.
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Originally posted by Randy0002 In most cases hollow tubing (like a sway or strut bar) is lighter, stiffer, and stronger. Thats just what I've noticed, I'd assume it would hold true w/ sway bars as well.
hmm i guess my friend is right
__________________ 98 Honda Prelude TypeSH
Diamond Pearl White
AEM CAI w/By-Pass, Thermal R&D Exhaust, Rota Subzeros 17x7.5, H&R Race Springs, Neuspeed/Koni Shocks, ST Rear Sway Bar, OEM Front Lip, OEM Side Skirts, Mugen Rear Skirt, Leather Interior, 50% Tint, Sparco Racing Pedals, Clear Corners, 2 12" Infinity Perfects, JBL BP 1200.1, 1 Farad Digital Cap, Dynamat, Remote Start
Originally posted by Randy0002 In most cases hollow tubing (like a sway or strut bar) is lighter, stiffer, and stronger. Thats just what I've noticed, I'd assume it would hold true w/ sway bars as well.
Sorry but I have to disagree!!!
Pls explain why IYO a hollow bar would be stiffer and stronger than a solid one?
Just want to hear from his perspective how hollow is stronger than solid?
i quess neuspeed and st really dropped the ball when it came to designing sway-bars to be solid pieces! lol...but really, i was so surprised when i changed the swaybar, how light the OEM one is compared to my neuspeed...superflea's st bar was also heavy compared to stock...
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i quess neuspeed and st really dropped the ball when it came to designing sway-bars to be solid pieces! lol...but really, i was so surprised when i changed the swaybar, how light the OEM one is compared to my neuspeed...superflea's st bar was also heavy compared to stock...
actually neuspeed didnt really drop the ball like ST at least for other applications because my friend got his rear sway bar from neuspeed for his audi a4 and its hollow...
__________________ 98 Honda Prelude TypeSH
Diamond Pearl White
AEM CAI w/By-Pass, Thermal R&D Exhaust, Rota Subzeros 17x7.5, H&R Race Springs, Neuspeed/Koni Shocks, ST Rear Sway Bar, OEM Front Lip, OEM Side Skirts, Mugen Rear Skirt, Leather Interior, 50% Tint, Sparco Racing Pedals, Clear Corners, 2 12" Infinity Perfects, JBL BP 1200.1, 1 Farad Digital Cap, Dynamat, Remote Start
why would you want a lighter sway bar... maybe if hollow is stronger, but if its for weight reduction...cmon
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most likely getting the BMW 8 series, already has 19s and then chipping it and getting shorter gears....oh yeah, and under warranty too...ETA is about 2 years though, buying it from a friend
A hollow bar is not stronger than a solid bar of the same material and manufacturing processes. Hollow bars are only used to save weight. Now, in torsion, a hollow shaft is sometimes used in place of a solid shaft because 90-some percent of the load is carried on the outside fibers of the shaft. However, in axial loading, this is not the case. If the bar were to fail, it would in shear, ie snap. The cross section would be at a 45 degree angle. One of the parameters in calculating the shear stress a bar can take is the cross sectional area of where it will fail. Therefore, can you see that the solid bar has more cross sectional area than a tube would? Even if the bar was more brittle and stiff than ductile and fails at a 90 degree angle rather than 45, then it fails in tensile stress and still has more cross sectional area than a tube.
Now that said, you can have a hollow tube stronger than a solid bar only if the solid bar is made of a material that has a lower resiliance factor, tensile and shear strength, is way more brittle than the tube, or just a cheaper material like a cast material or one that is not as pure.
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If you only knew the power of the Lude...
'94 Porsche 968 - National PCA HPDE Instructor
'98 Red Base Prelude - 02 & 03 DSP Champion - Sold
"Straights are for fast cars. Turns are for fast drivers." - SCCA Solo2
Originally posted by Darth Luder A hollow bar is not stronger than a solid bar of the same material and manufacturing processes. Hollow bars are only used to save weight. Now, in torsion, a hollow shaft is sometimes used in place of a solid shaft because 90-some percent of the load is carried on the outside fibers of the shaft. However, in axial loading, this is not the case. If the bar were to fail, it would in shear, ie snap. The cross section would be at a 45 degree angle. One of the parameters in calculating the shear stress a bar can take is the cross sectional area of where it will fail. Therefore, can you see that the solid bar has more cross sectional area than a tube would? Even if the bar was more brittle and stiff than ductile and fails at a 90 degree angle rather than 45, then it fails in tensile stress and still has more cross sectional area than a tube.
Now that said, you can have a hollow tube stronger than a solid bar only if the solid bar is made of a material that has a lower resiliance factor, tensile and shear strength, is way more brittle than the tube, or just a cheaper material like a cast material or one that is not as pure.
EVERYONE BOW TO THE ALL KNOWING DARTH
__________________ 98 Honda Prelude TypeSH
Diamond Pearl White
AEM CAI w/By-Pass, Thermal R&D Exhaust, Rota Subzeros 17x7.5, H&R Race Springs, Neuspeed/Koni Shocks, ST Rear Sway Bar, OEM Front Lip, OEM Side Skirts, Mugen Rear Skirt, Leather Interior, 50% Tint, Sparco Racing Pedals, Clear Corners, 2 12" Infinity Perfects, JBL BP 1200.1, 1 Farad Digital Cap, Dynamat, Remote Start
It is interesting to note that most "real" race sway bars are the torsion bar type. i.e. it is made of three pieces; the two lever arms, and the torsion bar. The torsion bar is usually hollow, and the arms are usually solid. This allows adjustment not only in the length of the lever arm, but the torsion bar can be swapped out with bars that have different wall thicknesses to adjust the stiffness of the bar.
It's not just weight savings that people use hollow bars, it's that the stiffness of the bar depends on the thickness of the wall, so it allows for some fine tuning.
Perhaps Neuspeed didn't use hollow tubing on the Prelude bars as a matter of cost (since there are quite a few bends in the bar), and hollow tubing might compromise the strength of the lever arms.
Originally posted by 71dsp It is interesting to note that most "real" race sway bars are the torsion bar type. i.e. it is made of three pieces; the two lever arms, and the torsion bar. The torsion bar is usually hollow, and the arms are usually solid. This allows adjustment not only in the length of the lever arm, but the torsion bar can be swapped out with bars that have different wall thicknesses to adjust the stiffness of the bar.
It's not just weight savings that people use hollow bars, it's that the stiffness of the bar depends on the thickness of the wall, so it allows for some fine tuning.
Perhaps Neuspeed didn't use hollow tubing on the Prelude bars as a matter of cost (since there are quite a few bends in the bar), and hollow tubing might compromise the strength of the lever arms.
Well, in torsion, most of the load is on the outside fibers so in that case it would make sense to have a hollow bar at that point, solid endlinks for tensile strength, and save some weight on the torsion bar part since the middle of the bar is mostly useless. The thicker the wall is though the more load you can carry in that wall as you increase to the maximum solid bar. But the gains of going down to a solid mass start droping off. So you can get the strength you need and save some weight by making it hollow, for the torsion part.
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If you only knew the power of the Lude...
'94 Porsche 968 - National PCA HPDE Instructor
'98 Red Base Prelude - 02 & 03 DSP Champion - Sold
"Straights are for fast cars. Turns are for fast drivers." - SCCA Solo2
Originally posted by Darth Luder Well, in torsion, most of the load is on the outside fibers so in that case it would make sense to have a hollow bar at that point, solid endlinks for tensile strength, and save some weight on the torsion bar part since the middle of the bar is mostly useless. The thicker the wall is though the more load you can carry in that wall as you increase to the maximum solid bar. But the gains of going down to a solid mass start droping off. So you can get the strength you need and save some weight by making it hollow, for the torsion part.
That's what I was saying, thanks for saying it again.
That's what I was saying, thanks for saying it again.
Well, sort of, just explained a few things. Youre welcome.
Mostly though, there is more than one way to skin a cat.
__________________
If you only knew the power of the Lude...
'94 Porsche 968 - National PCA HPDE Instructor
'98 Red Base Prelude - 02 & 03 DSP Champion - Sold
"Straights are for fast cars. Turns are for fast drivers." - SCCA Solo2
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