Today I finally ran the new clutch line and bled the clutch bringing my 5spd swap to an end.... or so I thought. After double checking everything I went to start the car and nothing. I pressed the clutch pedal down a little farther and fiddled with the key a little and it still didn't start but it sounded like the starter was running but it wasn't engaging. Like the starter teeth weren't coming in contact with the flywheel's. I have a couple idea's as to what may be happening but I'm not completely sure.
A) I used an M2B4 transmission. Is there any difference between 5th gen and 4th gen starters? USDM or JDM?
B) Broken starter or wire somewhere along the way?
C) Could I have messed up the wiring of the clutch safety somehow? (I don't really think so because the starter does run)
D) Could I have fried something while converting my ECU to manual?
That's all I can think of. Does anyone have any guidance? Thanks in advance.
__________________
-=luke=-
Last edited by luke_a192; 05-23-2011 at 04:22 PM.
Reason: updated info
My M2B4 came with a starter on it and it worked fine. I know the 5th gen auto and 5-speed starters are different, and the 5th and 4th gen starters have different part numbers, so if you put a 5th gen starter on a 4th gen transmission it may not work. If everything else is fine and the starter is turning, then it may be just enough different that it doesn't engage the teeth on the flywheel. Can you tell if the engine is turning over? Or is just the starter motor spinning?
I replaced the automatic starter with a 5spd starter and I was recently informed that all starters for H/F compatible transmissions are the same. I'm running a Fidanza flywheel if you think that would make a difference. It doesn't sound like the motor is cranking at all
He said the motor doesn't turn, only the starter does. I also have the Fidanza flywheel so that isn't the problem. Can you tell if the plunger part of the starter works? the little gear that actually turns the flywheel shoots out a few inches when you turn the key. If that wasn't working the starter would spin but since it wasn't touching the flywheel it wouldn't turn the engine over. Sometimes that part gets stuck and if you hit the starter with a hammer a few times it frees it.
I was going to take the starter out and test it but first I'm going to make sure I got the wires connected properly. I guess I'll take a hammer with me when I go to do so.
Well I put the starter back in and jumped it straight from the battery and nothing different happened. The starter motor sounded like it was just turning freely although after listening closely it does make a click which I assume is the gear popping out. I took the starter out again, put the car in gear and let it roll a little bit while my brother watched the flywheel and it did turn fine. I measured the distance between the opening in the transmission housing and the flywheel teeth, It was a little less than two inches (like around 1 7/8, i forget the exact measurement). Then I measured how far the teeth of the starter come out which literally is just under 2 inches. I have a feeling there should be more contact than that?
Well here's the video, sorry my phone doesn't have good sound quality what so ever.
Do you have a picture of the starter out of the trans housing and showing the cog? Also, if you want go under the car, and remove the engine stiffener you can have visual access to the flywheel. Put the car up on stands or on lift and have a look here while you have someone try and start the car. If the flywheel doenst move then proceed onto removing the starter and comapring the cog teeth to that of a working one. (I have one at my house i can reference for you, however i am away at work at teh moment and will be gone for the next week or so). If the flywheel is turning then the problem lies elswhere.
Another question, when you installed everything you had in good workign order a clutch interlock switch(i would think it would have come with the pedals used)?
Good idea about looking up through the bottom. I'll try it next chance I get and figure out what I can see. The clutch interlock switch is the one that won't allow ignition unless the clutch pedal is depressed correct? If so, yeah, it appears to be in working order. The starter won't even attempt to run otherwise.
It might be easier to pull the distributor cap and watch for the rotor to turn when you hit the starter. If it does there's a good bet the flywheel is too....
It definitely would be easier to take the dizzy cap of than the engine stiffener but the starter isn't causing the motor to crank therefore the rotor wouldn't be turning either.
I was under the impression that the starters were interchangeable. Also my transmission is from a 4th gen so if they are different I'm thinking the 4th gen one is what I'll need.
I dunno about that one luke, wheni had the m2b4 i was using my fifth gen starter for it. Then after i took it out and put the t2w4 i kept using the fifth gen starter. If you need a starter let me know as i will be heading home for a couple days after tonight. Let me knoa and i will egt it shipped out in the next day or two.
You could go to auto-zone and take your starter with you and see if the size is the same for a 5th gen. From the part numbers and images they look different and shorter..
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
