Let the car run for ~20 minutes and warm up so that the ECU will finishing resetting, then the CEL will probably come back on. Pull the code BEFORE you reset the ECU if it comes back again. By pulling the fuse, you cleared the code...whatever it was.
Let the car run for ~20 minutes and warm up so that the ECU will finishing resetting, then the CEL will probably come back on. Pull the code BEFORE you reset the ECU if it comes back again. By pulling the fuse, you cleared the code...whatever it was.
I actually had the car up to temp and ripped it around the block a few times after pulling the fuse, and before doing the OBD tests .. If you think it will help I will do it again though.
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
Try the whole process again, without pulling the fuse. Let it get up to temp and drive it around. See if the CEL comes back.
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Okay, to be clear, this is my understanding of what you have done, and in what order:
1) CEL is on
2) Tried the jumper, CEL light stays on solid, no blinking
3) CEL still on, tried the OBD II code reader, no codes
4) Reset the ECU by pulling the clock/radio fuse
5) CEL goes off, stays off (so far)
6) Tried the CEL jumper again, light still comes on solid, but goes back off when jumper is removed
Now, did you do ANY of those steps out of that EXACT order?
Okay, to be clear, this is my understanding of what you have done, and in what order:
1) CEL is on
2) Tried the jumper, CEL light stays on solid, no blinking
3) CEL still on, tried the OBD II code reader, no codes
4) Reset the ECU by pulling the clock/radio fuse
5) CEL goes off, stays off (so far)
6) Tried the CEL jumper again, light still comes on solid, but goes back off when jumper is removed
Now, did you do ANY of those steps out of that EXACT order?
Edit:
1)cell light was off before and after it happened. I even pulled the 7.5 fuse once before it came on.
2)Cleaned connections and continued to try and burp air a few more times and then the CEL came on.
3)Unplugged the 7.5 again.
4) more burping and testing...
5)put in jumper and CEL and srs come on *srs quickly flicks off and comes back again both cell and srs stay solid. no codes seen.
6) remove jumper CEL and srs are gone. over and over....
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
Try the whole process again, without pulling the fuse. Let it get up to temp and drive it around. See if the CEL comes back.
Did as you said. Took it up to temp and then for a good 15min ride. Still no CEL and still no DTC codes on the reader, and same deal with the jumper and CEL light coming on. I get up to temp and I start running at really low rpm like 200 rpm..
When its cold it start at 1200rpm and soonds good and responds to the throttle well, but once temp is reached its low rpms and its stinks like gas big time, along with the bogging out with the shots of gas..
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
x2. Forget about the T-stat and bleeding the system anymore. That is not the problem.
You really shot yourself in the foot by clearing that code. You can either keep driving the car, hoping for it to come back on, or randomly start replacing sensors. I do not recommend the latter.
x2. Forget about the T-stat and bleeding the system anymore. That is not the problem.
You really shot yourself in the foot by clearing that code. You can either keep driving the car, hoping for it to come back on, or randomly start replacing sensors. I do not recommend the latter.
Yea I realized I made a mistake about an hour later. So there is no chance i still have air trapped in the stat or somewhere in the cooling system is basically what you guys are saying... I guess I will just have to wait for it to come back.
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
I/M :
MISFIRE=READY
FUEL=READY
CCM=READY
CAT=NOT READY
HCM=N/A(NOT ABLE TO TEST WITH THIS DEVICE)
EVAP=N/A
2AIR=N/A
A/C=N/A
02S=NOT READY
H02S=READY
EGR=NOT READY
Dont know what the I/M stuff is all about thought I would post that info...
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
I/M stands for Inspection/Maintenance. If any emission related items are in the Not Ready state, then your car will fail the emission test. I think each item is either Ready, Fail, or Not Ready state. Not Ready means the item in question has not have enough data to conclude whether the item is good or bad. You'll need a few driving cycles to get all items in the Ready State. My 2k base needed about 24 hours of normal daily commute (drive to work, lunch, then home) to have all items in the Ready State.
Give it a few normal driving cycles and see if the light comes back on.
I/M stands for Inspection/Maintenance. If any emission related items are in the Not Ready state, then your car will fail the emission test. I think each item is either Ready, Fail, or Not Ready state. Not Ready means the item in question has not have enough data to conclude whether the item is good or bad. You'll need a few driving cycles to get all items in the Ready State. My 2k base needed about 24 hours of normal daily commute (drive to work, lunch, then home) to have all items in the Ready State.
Give it a few normal driving cycles and see if the light comes back on.
Hi there, Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge on the issue...
I have been driving it around trying to get the light back on for a few days now I'm trying to be careful because she really wants to stall on me at times. Power kicking in and out.. Even killed my engine a few times trying very hard to avoid that of course .. You can hear it and feel it, sometimes its loving the gas other times its chocking from it. Im still thinking I have air trapped somewhere.. Also when engine is cold I have a collapsed rad hose, and when i start it it open up again.. Can also see a bit of steam escaping my rad cap, will be replacing that tomorrow. And, sorry all, if some of the info I'm posting is redundant, I don't want to leave out anything
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
Just wanted to update the thread with good news. The problem I was having was simply the spark plugs.
I was told when I Purchased the car they were new 5000km ago.
After examining them they look like they seen over 70,000km
I'm surprised I could even start the engine the way they were all 4 were beyond toast.
So thanks to everyone who tried to help.
Problem resolved.
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
I was told when I Purchased the car they were new 5000km ago.
After examining them they look like they seen over 70,000km
I'm surprised I could even start the engine the way they were all 4 were beyond toast.
Problem resolved.
Nothing beats the feeling of fixing your own car. Good going man. The OEM NGK ones last a lot longer than 70,000km. The first time I replaced mind was around 90,000m and the tips look almost new and it didn't change the car performance at all with the new set. Prolly could have gone 'till 120,000m or more.
it could possibly be your iacv(idle control) i had perssured washed under the hood and after that i got the cel and atts light on..when i would floor it. it would bogge out on me all i did was cleaned all the wires good. took the distributor off and cleaned it good. cleaned the throttle body good and my idle control.. now its working perfectly fine and my cel light has not lite up
Nothing beats the feeling of fixing your own car. Good going man. The OEM NGK ones last a lot longer than 70,000km. The first time I replaced mind was around 90,000m and the tips look almost new and it didn't change the car performance at all with the new set. Prolly could have gone 'till 120,000m or more.
I hear you man, felt awesome. I did put in the NGK'S . The Champions I took out must have seen at least 140000km then cause there was nothing left, could almost put my pinky in the gap lol.
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
it could possibly be your iacv(idle control) i had perssured washed under the hood and after that i got the cel and atts light on..when i would floor it. it would bogge out on me all i did was cleaned all the wires good. took the distributor off and cleaned it good. cleaned the throttle body good and my idle control.. now its working perfectly fine and my cel light has not lite up
Glad you fixed your problem. As I posted earlier it was my spark plugs that were giving me issues.. But hopefully your post will help someone down the line.
Cheers
__________________
Im a noob, but I'll try not to sound retarded.
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