The main issue is that the IM doesn't really do much for HP until you have other mods( like valvetrain) and have professionally tuned your car.
Just sticking it on a stock motor with no tuning is not going to give you it's full potential. I've heard people claim a simply faster revving engine, but that's not a lot of gain for buying it.
Well technically, you may want to upgrade to a larger one and have it matched to the same port size as the IM. But as with anything else, it's really dependent on where you want this build to go and how much money you have to spend.
Most of any mod on the H22 is not going to see most of it's full potential until you tune. This goes for the TB also.
yes it will fit but you have to beware as of lately there has been many counterfiet Skunk2 products, the counterfeit ones wont seal on the head so just be cautious and double check to make sure you got the right one.(gon on the sk2 website and they will show you ways to tell if yours is real or not..) As for putting it one your car, go for it man, you are going to lose some of your down low power but you will notice the gain in the higher rpms. If you really want to see some serious gain with the sk2 mani then the get a sk2 valavtrain setup with a stage 3 cam(now your looking at HC pistons and a worked over block) and rev it up to 11000 where the mani flows most. Many people use them for boosted setups as the displacement of the mani is bigger than stock by quite abit and will contribute to a responsive boosted setup. I really wish skunk2 made an equivelent exhuast manifold.
yes you can, skunk2 has a great setup for that kind of thing, however it requires a built block with 14.5:1 compression, a skunk2 worked over head, all the supporting bits and peices for fuel and power and ect, a helluva tune and some race gas.
I was goin to use SK2 springs in my boosted setup but chose to go with BC springs retainers and skunk2 nitride stock bore std comp valves. The BC springs are good for a 10,000 rpm redline( they say that you can go hgihger than that but they do not recommend it). I beleive JUN has an 10,000 rpm setup also.
originally i wanted to do a turbo setup but im not going to spend all that money on the car, so i was thinking on some cams, the im, throttle body, and heather. I would like a nitrous setup too but the prelude is going to be my daily driver, so im doing the turbo setup on my crx later this year.
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My 2 toy's
BB6 base model H22 aem cai, apexi vafc, eibach springs with tokico illumina.
EF8 91 work in progress.
im not sure yet probably stage 1 or 2, depending on which one is better for what im thinking. here is what im thinking:
skunk 2 im and throttle body
spring retainers and valve springs
cams either stage 1 or 2
heather probably mugen or try y
apexi vafc or p28 or p72 not sure yet
and a good tuning
the car already has
aem cai and aem pulleys.
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My 2 toy's
BB6 base model H22 aem cai, apexi vafc, eibach springs with tokico illumina.
EF8 91 work in progress.
^^I did some reading in the N/A section today. ......For about 4 hours.
Man, some REALLY great info in there.
From what I read, if you are going with stage 2 cams(no matter what brand), a piggyback just won't cut it. It'll do....but not what makes stage 2, stage 2.
Please, go do some reading. I spent about 2 1/2 hours just reading a few threads that I found when I searched the keywords "stage 2". Found some great stuff.
Interestingly enough, the cam i am goin to boost with is a brian crower stage 2 turbo cam; if you are going to use skunk2's then you will need the pro series stage 1 n/a cam, if you use the stage 3 n/a cam you will need blockwork. The proseries skunk2 stage 2 is recomended for boosted setups. Either way if you are goin N/A then you are gonna need a cam that has really high lift, long duration and lots of overlap, to flow the air in and out of the chamber. The throttle body and intake manifold are great too but you will need tuning for this. I have an AEM series2 EMS, i havnt isntalled it as i am currenty midbuild(kinda, things on hold for summer cruising and time off work chillin), this was the only competant tuning system i could find that covers all the necessary parameters.
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