99_SH

SPC is one of the best out there. Ingalls being the worst. Some of the cheaper ones start making squeaking sounds after a couple of months.

You simply need to press out the old ball joint, and replace it with the new adjustable sliding ball joints. No need to replace the control arms. I'll have a review on this when I install it next week,


The SPC comes in two kits:

Fronts:
For base model:
#67135 up to 1.5 degree
#67330 1.5-3.0 degree

For SH model:
#67155 up to 1.5 degree
#67350 1.5-3.0 degree

Rears:
Base model:
#84945 up to 1.5 degree
#84955 1.75-3.25 degree

SH model:
#67165 up to 1.5 degree
#67360 1.5-3.0 degree

__________________
-Arax

99SHinPa

I talked with a shop out here, and they were saying that you needed a press to get them out. Is there another way to do it without the outlaying of too much money and without destroying the control arm?

gLudeous

Depends on what's "best" for how you drive it. If you drive the car conservatively, 0 camber will keep the edges of the tires from wearing unevenly and will handle just fine. If you push the car a lot, with 0 camber the outsides will actually wear more and you won't have as much grip as possible. If you autocross every weekend, the outsides of your tires will be bald with 0 camber long before the rest of the tire, plus you'll be cursing the car for having the grip of a Tercel compared to your counterparts. For me, lowered about an inch with about -1 degrees camber, I'm still wearing the outsides of the tires faster than the center and insides because I autocross it every other weekend. I could actually use -2 or so and that would give me even tire wear.

Honda figures they basically have 2 choices (keep in mind the camber is not really adjustable in our car, it says "check for bent components" if it's out of spec). They can sell a car with 0 camber that will not wear the tires out unusually for the average daily driver and will pull .83 g's on a skidpad. Or they can sell a car with some negative camber that will wear out tires in 15000 miles in normal driving but will pull .86 g's (I'm kind of pulling these numbers out of my ass, but they are probably not way off). Most people will never surpass a sustained .7 g's more than a once a month (and might be ****ting their pants while doing so) so Honda figures they better not piss these people off by selling them a car that will wear out tires in 15000 miles, and so they lean towards the 0 camber option.

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Hyojiggy

-3 camber??? what are you DRIVING!!! this aint no INDY CAR!!! i bet 90% of time you drive on regular streets!!! unless you USE YOUR PRELUDE for RACING ONLY... then..why did you get PRELUDE if you were gona go racing ONLY?

__________________
'98 Honda Prelude
-- All back to stock except AEM Cold Air Intake
'00 Toyota MR2
-- the reason Prelude went back to stock.

flybyeludegettingirls

I have my camber set to -.5 front and back on all four corners...or its roughly -.5 degrees......this seems to offer great hadling and also great tire wear.

99_SH

flybyeludegettingirls: By great tire wear do you mean, the tire wear isn't alot? or that its wearing out your tires quickly? I think i'm going to go anywhere from -.5 degree to -1 degree camber on the front.


LegoMahEggroll: On one of your first posts you said that you had the alignment shop set your car at 3.8 caster. The stock specs says it should be something like 4.2. How come you opted for a lower caster value? BTW, what did you set your camber to?


99SHinPa: You can rent a press for the balljoints from Autozone for free. All it is, is a C-clamp with two attachments so you can be able to take the ball joints out. Its a relativley simple and straightforward process. You tighten the C-clamp with your hand, and it'll slowly press the ball joint out of the control arm.

__________________
-Arax

LegoMahEggroll

I guess the numbers vary from machine to machine. On the printout it says the range for caster should be like 2.8-4.8. I didn't get a chance to speak with my alignment shop about the exact specs I wanted. But the fromt camber is like .3 on both sides -.3 On the rears. cross camber in the front is .1. I was just happy to have a camber kit that works If I could choose my camber I'd leave it at like -.3 all around or something. Talk to your alignment guys, they know what they're doing.

Hyojiggy

__________________
'98 Honda Prelude
-- All back to stock except AEM Cold Air Intake
'00 Toyota MR2
-- the reason Prelude went back to stock.

LegoMahEggroll

well at least I think they do. I was recommended to the shop I goto by another po.com member, and that shop does alignment for the local miata racing club around here.

99_SH

I'm thinking of going -.5 camber in the front, with somewhere around 5 degress for caster. what do you guys think?

__________________
-Arax