my block is shot in my 97 sh so i decided to go with a jdm h22a. Did the swap and did eveything to keep it obd2. Swapped over all the prats including new oil pump, new seals and so on got the motor back in (still ob2 harness) the car installed the intermediate shaft new axels everything and when it came to the first start up the car started then stalled out since then that is all it has been doing. It is having a fuel problem but i dont know why Now i guess my first question is what has to be done to the computer (stock SH) i unpluged the atts computer but want to make sure that the extra connector is not causing the problem. The car has spark, fuel pressure, fuel pulse, timing is dead on and the only code since i got it to start once and stay o long enough for the CEL to come on was the ckp/tdc but changed it out and it still has the same problem just looking for some help or opinions thanks
I have tried an p13 on a jumper harness and a p5m the p5m wouldnt even star the car and the p 13 did the same thing as my computer it will only stay on long enough if my stock sh computer is on the car
The ATTS system on the SH model has special sensors in the ATTS system to cut fuel to the engine if there is too much power or stress on the ATTS system. If you unplug the ATTS sensor connecter, the ECU will cut fuel to the engine because there is no feedback from the ATTS to tell the ECU everything is ok.
if your getting a ckp/tdc light then your issue crank sensor on oil pump or in the distributor depending on what you did. if your using your jdm h22 dizzy then you need to wire that up.... if you use your stock dizzy then you just need to add the crank sensor from your old oil pump to the jdm motor which it should have the spot for it
i bought a brand new oil pump and transfered over the sensors from the 22a4 to the 22a still using the stock dizzy and still having a problem i now got the car running but only on the obd1 computer and it is running like s#!t cant go above 3700 rpm.
is there abybody that did a swap from an sh h22a4 to an h22a my swap is done now just trying to trouble shoot now as to what could be the problem now just need the last bit of info to get the car on the road
i bought a brand new oil pump and transfered over the sensors from the 22a4 to the 22a still using the stock dizzy and still having a problem i now got the car running but only on the obd1 computer and it is running like s#!t cant go above 3700 rpm.
which obd1 computer are you using?
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My Babies:
69 mustang
98 prelude
06 STi
2012 STi
p13 stock 5 speed and I checked it today I have four codes 4,17,36,41 dont know what the 36 is but the rest are the ckp, o2, and tps, but on the obd2 computer I only throw the ckp also I know why the ckp is on because somewhere in the wiring it is open but i dont know where
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ended up changing to the odb1 distributor went from 4 pin to 8 pin used my ecu (p5p) sh ecu wired up the distributor right and the car started right up with no chekc engine light.
That is awesome. Have you ever thought of doing a write up lol I'm about to drop a h22a in my fifth gen prelude sh. So the the obd1 dizzy 4 point connector went to a 8 point connector and you used your stock ecu. How did you wire it? sorry I'm not the best when it comes to electric and where can you get a obd1 dizzy. Will a dizzy from a 94 older prelude work? right? Also did you have to wire your vtec solenoid to slot a4 on your ecu. Thats what i read on the internet or did it just hook up to your old wiring harness? Thanks for any help because I'm about to drop in my h22a this week. Maybe I'll do a write up since this is such a popular thread and you guys could see my old blown motor that was missing two valves and a piston when I took the head off. may she rest in peace in my garage until I rebuild her. (moment of silence) Thank you god bless.
you can get the dizzy from autozone for like 126 with warranty i got it cheaper because i work there i will post the part number tomorrow and also never had to touch the vtec solenoid and pretty much everything hooked up except the oil pressure sensor had to switch it over from the sh block to the base cut and extend the connectorr on the harness because on the sh block the oil pressure switch is right on the oil cooler and the base model it is under the oil filter, but to tell you the truth i never wanted to get rid of the atts but had no choice. Once you get started with this swap and see how much you have to change over you won't want to go back i have a good head, tranny, and atts unit just sitting in my garage now and don't even feel like popping my hood if i dont have to good luck and hope you have some friends that work at honda.
i just want to thank eveybody here that either went through this problem before me or knew enough info to guide my and help me make this swap possible couldn't of done it with out prelude online THANKS
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