BstdPrelude

Hey all,
my prelude started this hesitation problem a couple weeks ago and it has my tuner and me stumped. When at idle when i press the acceleration pedal,the rpms jump 200, then it bogs and they drop and then it jumps again. Now when I very slowly press the acceleration pedal, then the rpms climb fine. When in traffic when im shifting, right when i go into the next gear and give it gas the car bogs and the rpms drop and it tries to stall (has stalled a few times). So far weve changed the following parts:
MAP sensor
TPS sensor
Cap and rotor
Head and block were checked and are fine
Plugs and wires are new-ish but have been checked anyways
Fuel Pump (walbro 255)
Fuel pressure check (found low fuel pressure, approx 20 psi at idle)
checked and rechecked tune
No Check engine lights throwing.
Im going in on tuesday to have my fuel management unit (vortex fmu) removed and run a new regulator with gauge.
If anyone has any ideas or even guesses, this would help us out tremendously.
Thanks!

97 honda prelude
Sleeved block, new head, eagle rods, 8.5:1 pistons, garret t3/t04e 57 trim, apexi vafc, vortex FMU, etc

SixpackJeanie

This is a bit over-due, but I'm having hesitation issues from "stop" as well, though not the way you describe you are experiencing. Mine just doesn't seem to grab and go like it did when I bought it. It's mostly in hot weather and/or when the a/c is running - which is expected to bog it down a tad anyhow (runs great in cold weather, obviously).

Mine is all stock with new aftermarket exhaust. I keep my fully maintenanced on schedule and I'm very lucky to have a mechanic/tuner who is very knowledgable on just about everything. We've troubleshooted and well, I've just figured I'd have to deal with it. It's not getting worse at least.

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BB6typeSH

Just guessing here have you checked your egr runners on your intake manifold or the egr valve itself that is known to cause hesitation and bogging. Like I said just a guess. I am taking that you have checked your timing on the belt and dizzy. Hope this helps

BstdPrelude

I appreciate the responses but I finally broke down and spent $500+ at my tuner. Part costs $35. It was a "missing link" made by blox racing and it was clogged. I guess it blocks out vacuum pressure going to the MAP sensor on turbo applications to prevent the MAP sensor from breaking and when it clogs it sends a bad reading to the MAP sensor making the car run super rich and the motor would flood.