BBYlude

what direction does the crank turn on the H22? I tried searching, but to no avail.

71dsp

ccw

BBYlude

sweet! thank you. Since I have your attention, 71dsp, I have a couple questions. I just swapped in a used bottom end, and I am told by my teacher that since the oil galleries will still have oil in them, i won't need to prime the engine. I let the bottom end drain upside down overnight when I removed the head, and when it wasn't upside down, the oil pan was removed. Can I be sure the oil is still in the neccessary galleries? I have an old distributer that I alread prepped to run off of a drill if I need to prime it.

also, assuming the bottom end was running mineral oil, will it be fine to run mobil 1 full synthetic w/ the old oil in the galleries?

thanks

edit:

also, if you could explain why, if the engine turns ccw, the tension side of the timing belt is on the far side of the timing gears? To me, putting tension on the side of the belt that will see the pulling force from the crank gear makes more sense. Wouldn't the slack in the belt allow for timing error?

marcucci

There will be no oil in the gallies. Everything pretty much drains back after sitting for a few hours. That said, you should not need to prime the system as long as it is filled before starting. The system will come up to pressure and fill the gallies in a matter of seconds. You can also prime easily by removing spark or fuel and cranking the engine for a few seconds.

It will be OK to run full synthetic as long as there wasn't any chunky stuff on the inside of the motor.

Your teacher works on domestics, right? The oil pump is driven off of the crank, you can't drive it off the distributor. At least, I would not recommend turning ove the motor via the cam.

The tensioner is on the slack side of the belt because it's an auto tensioner and not a fixed one. Combustion drives the piston down and rotates the crank CCW, that pulls the belt and the cam gear on the front of the motor. Timing is fixed there. The rear cam gets drug along, and the leading edge of the belt on the back side of the motor is where the tensioner is, to take up the slack.

Honda also uses this same paradigm on their manually-tensioned motors.

71dsp

As marcucci stated, you cannot prime the oil pump using the distributor. You need to remove the spark plugs and disable the fuel pump. Then turn the engine over for 10 seconds or so to get oil in all the galleys. Replace the spark plugs, enable the fuel pump, then start the engine like normal.
Chances are the galleys are fairly dry. I'd worry more about any worn seals with the synth than the galleys.
The tensioner is on the slack side of the timing belt, i.e. the tensioner is on the trailing side of the cam gears. It wouldn't make sense to put the tensioner on the "tensioned" side of the belt since the engine uses an autotensioner (as also stated by marcucci). I imagine Honda did this with the manual tensioners too so that the tension could be set without having to rotate the engine opposite of its normal operation.