So maybe it wasn't such a good idea after all. It does definitely eliminate understeer with all my other mods but...
I use an Odyssey 680 battery which doesn't have a whole lot of cranking power in the first place and I have pulleys so I don't get any power from the alternator at idle speed. This is fine in summer, but winter is another story. The problem is that you are constantly starting the car with a cold battery since it will never warm up in the trunk, unlike under the hood. I have never had to jump start it yet, but I've been close a couple of times. Fortunately it doesn't stay cold for long in Texas so I'll make it through the winter I think. I definitely would not recommend this mod for people up north. Either put a lightweight battery under the hood where it can warm up, or put a full size battery in the trunk. Anything else is a waste of $200 and 8 hours of work.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
The Odyssey 680 was $100, the 2 gauge cable was another $25, the box was only $10 at Home Depot, the Fuse and fuse holder were $35, and the power distribution block was another $30. It's wasn't nearly as cheap as I thought it was going to be...
It wasn't very hard, but it was a pain in the ass to drill and wire everything. I also ran the power cable through vinyl tubing throughout the entire car so there is no chance of a short. Getting the cable through 8 feet of vinyl tubing was a PITA! Next time, I'd lube it up with some Vaseline.
man, no wonder it took you 8 hours! haha at least you know its safe and you never need to worry about a short. now I wish I took the time to do that, I only put tubing up to the firewall.
I hope you went larger then an 80 amp fuse. mine worked great for about 2 weeks. then my motor kicked back or somthing strange... and I blew every 80 amp i put in. lol
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"If I had all the money I ever spent on cars........I'd spend it all on cars"
I hope you went larger then an 80 amp fuse. mine worked great for about 2 weeks. then my motor kicked back or somthing strange... and I blew every 80 amp i put in. lol
HAHAHAH! Here's my story. I had a long blow 60amp fuse in there to start. It didn't give me any trouble because the engine would always fire before there was enough resistance to blow the fuse. When I put Seafoam in the engine, made it really tough to crank. Voila! My fuse blew and I had nothing with which to replace it. It looked like rain was coming and my windows were down so I used a thick paper clip in place of the fuse. It was sufficient to raise the windows so I said what the hell and tried to crank the engine. Nope! The paperclip melted. I had nothing else until I searched my pockets. AHA! A nickel! With the nickel in the fuse holder, I was able to drive around until I finally got a 100amp fuse. So far, no problems, but I always keep a nickel handy.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
yep... no probs with my SMALLER battery under the hood
what's this understeer thing you talk about?
hold does your battery hold up during the winter? i was thinkin of using a lightweight NRG battery but with the cca being only 280 and the weather hovering around 0-10 degrees here, i'm not sure it'll hold up.
I'm using a battery from an early 90's Accord, it's about 13 pounds lighter. I was using a 26-5N from Wal-Mart but for some reason it started to leak so I traded it in for a slightly harder cranking model (720 amps warm, 630 cold) with the same dimensions.
I am in Ct. and it was -10 the other day I have a yellow top in the back seat.
I was having cranking issues which i thought was from the battery and a light fly wheel and have written about it here once or twice. It turns out that I had a loose cable on the starter from when the clutch got changed out.
I drive the car about once every ten days now and I have not had ANY start trouble at all...the car sits with the alarm set and just waits. I do make sure that everything is off lights, stereo, heater etc. always have. She jsut fires right up no problem
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