Well she's got 133xxx miles on and a fresh new noise coming up. Can't complain though, its a good little car.
It's most noticeable on the highway, 60mph and up. The faster you go, the louder it is. It almost sounds like a pin hole leak in the exhaust (that's how I ended up at a muffler shop, luckily it was an honest one). But after I got out of there I noticed it doesn't have anything to do with the engine rpm/gear I'm in. That means the engine and transmission are out of the question. So, now thinking it's one of the bearings. Did the swaying on the highway and noticed that when turning left the noise almost goes away, turning right no real noticeable difference, the noise is still there. So that means it's a drivers side bearing. It sounds like it's coming from the back but I'm not completely sure. I jacked the car up and checked all 4 wheels for play but there was none.
Is there any other way to make certain whether its the front or rear bearing?
Are the P/N for right and left bearings/hub unit the same?
Can the spindle nut be reused? Seems like everybody around here has to special order the nut.
For those who have done this before, do you remember what size the spindle nut is? It looks fairly big, 1" or so.
Oh, also checked the CV boots, they look ok.
Anything else to watch out for when changing the hub bearing unit?
I can see this thread is a bit old, but I have the same issues - load growl type sound coming from the rear end that increases vehicle speed not engine RPMs. Ya, it does kinda sound like an exhaust but like i already said, it doesn't fluctuate with engine RPMs so I know it has nothing to do with the exhaust.
I know the previous owner had the driver side bearing replaced years ago but this sound is coming from the passenger side bearing. I'm totally game on doing it myself, I have the Honda shop manual, but I wouldn't mind seeing some answers to dragos' questions. In particular, when I replace the bearing (I believe it's the entire assembly that gets changed) do we really need to replace the spindle nut? What socket size will I need? I'd just like to order all the parts at once, don't wanna have to go back and forth for little things like that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by TheJGB-2KTypeSH; 01-18-2010 at 07:56 PM.
i have a possible similar problem. my prelude has 140k and when i turn hard it makes a continued clicking like the cv axcle but it comes from the driver rear tire(last time i checked my prelude was front wheel drive). i checked the bearings and they seem fine. let me kno if u find anything.
FWD cars don't have front bearings. If it's a wheel bearing noise, it's coming from the rear.
If you turn to the left (as if changing lanes on a highway) and the noise lessens or disappears, the left bearing is bad. If you turn to the right and the noise lessens or disappears, the right bearing is bad. What you're doing is removing the load from each bearing, depending on which way you're turning. No load, no noise.
If the noise doesn't change, regardless of turning inputs, they're both bad.
Isn't it if the sound goes away when you turn right, it's the right bearing since the weight will shift towards the left and thus place the load on the left wheel while taking it off the right? That's what I experience.
Quick question: How urgent is it to fix this? Or in other words, how likely is it for my wheel to go flying off? I plan on fixing it but may wait for better weather first.
Isn't it if the sound goes away when you turn right, it's the right bearing since the weight will shift towards the left and thus place the load on the left wheel while taking it off the right? That's what I experience.
Quick question: How urgent is it to fix this? Or in other words, how likely is it for my wheel to go flying off? I plan on fixing it but may wait for better weather first.
It's a lot cheaper then the Honda assembly. Or is this one of those things you definitely want to stick with Honda?
EDIT: Honda wants $260 where as Canadian Tire wants $150 for the SKF one. If the SKF is decent, I might as well save $100, but if it's gonna cause me headaches, I'd rather just bend over for Honda.
The other day after two weeks of getting the oil changed for the first time in a year and half I really cranked it up on the freeway screwing around with a prosche... I hit 135 (ish)
Isn't it if the sound goes away when you turn right, it's the right bearing since the weight will shift towards the left and thus place the load on the left wheel while taking it off the right? That's what I experience.
Quick question: How urgent is it to fix this? Or in other words, how likely is it for my wheel to go flying off? I plan on fixing it but may wait for better weather first.
I spoke with a Honda Master Technician at Bob Lindsay Honda with 35yrs experience working at the same Honda dealership. He told me not to worry the wheel will never fall off and the wheel will never lockup it is just annoying noise. As for the AutoZoner bearing I cannot tell you because I got an OEM one for my RR.
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Last edited by TheJGB-2KTypeSH; 01-18-2010 at 10:50 PM.
So does anyone know the socket size required to take the rear bearing spindle nut off? I'm pretty sure I don't already have one so I'll need to go buy one. I'm guessing it'll be in the 30mm range? And by any chance, is the rear spindle the same as the front?
So does anyone know the socket size required to take the rear bearing spindle nut off? I'm pretty sure I don't already have one so I'll need to go buy one. I'm guessing it'll be in the 30mm range? And by any chance, is the rear spindle the same as the front?
i know the fronts are 35mm. 32mm for rear? idk
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TEE-DOT, what did u mean by FWD cars dont have front bearings? My 2001 Bonneville's front wheel bearings just went out. When I ordered them they came as an assembly of course but they were reffered to as "wheel bearings". Did I just misunderstand what u were trying to say?
And as for the socket size... for the front on my prelude I used a 1-7/16. my shop I work at does not have metrics in those sizes seing how HMMWV's are mostly standard sizes. It worked just fine but it was a tad loose, but it didnt hurt it. As for the rear I have no idea cause they are not visable like the front are.
I recently replaced both my rear wheel bearings, same noise problems, figured if one was going out, the other would soon. I ordered Timken replacements, available online, came in box marked Made in Japan, pulled them out and they were exactly like the ones I was replacing, same OEM supplier/brand as honda, cost about $65-70ea. Save yourself some money. BTW, the ones I replaced appeared fine, no slop, just noisy, had about 125k miles on them. satwilson
front wheel drive cars definitely have wheel bearings in the front. it can very possibly be in the front. i had to replace a wheel bearing in my integra. front passenger. they are pressed in.
Ok, finally got around to replacing my rear bearing hub. The socket that I used was 32mm, although I believe 1-1/4 would work as well. I also recommend buying a new spindle nut as the old one can get damaged while taking it off.
Interestingly, what I thought would be the hard part (taking the spindle nut off and removing the old bearing hub from the car) were very easy (the hub just slid off the spindle with ease). But taking the rotor off the car was a bit of a nightmare. Once you take the caliper off the rotor you have two little Philips screws that keep the rotor onto the hub. Well, I broke two screw drivers trying to unscrew those. I poured a ton of liquid wrench and zapped it with a torch, but nothing worked. Ended up stripping the screws with a 3rd screw driver. Ended up just drilling them out and I didn't bother replacing them when I put it all back together. Aside from that, it went fairly smoothly.
Those 2 phillips screws that hold the rotor to the hub are always difficult to remove in my experience. I had the same problem as you, they were frozen in place. Broke a couple of impact driver tips trying to remove them. Ended up loosening the hub and removed the hub and rotor together and then drilled out the screws from the rear where they attach to the hub. I was worried I might damage the rotor if I drilled them out from the rotor side. Put powdered aluminum anti seize on new ones before reassembly. Just wanted to repeat, the bearings I replaced still appeared functional, not sloppy, leaky, so for those of you who do a physical/ mechanical check to see if this is your "noise", they may appear fine, like mine. I'm glad I replaced mine, sooner or later a noisy bearing will fail. I do not agree with the comments made by Honda Master Tech Bob Lindsay in the response from TheJGB-2KTypeSH implying this " is only an annoying noise and the wheel will NEVER lock up or fall off ". Noisy bearings do eventually fail, usually with unwanted consequences.
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. i checked the bearings and they seem fine. let me kno if u find anything.
Where'd my coffee can go??? 
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