ok, Sat I tried to get the 2 rear tiebar bolts out to install my DC rear lower tie bar... well I tried breaking it by hand... right lol.
well I moved up gradually to a 750lb impact wrench... it DIDN'T even budge LOL.
well then I moved up to a 1200 lb impact wrench... nothing
the bolts are aircraft grade and look brand new.
any thoughts on getting these bishes out?
o and I know the tie bar is more bling than stiff lol, but it looks so good
Ok, this is an obvious thing and one that I am sure you did no overlook, but did you jack up the car? If you didn't jack up the car, you've got the weight of the car on those bolts via the lower arm and that would make them damn hard to break torque.
FYI, again this is obvious, but never remove them without having the frame jacked up or you will be squished when the suspension arm releases and the car squats on you.
Spray some PB Blaster on the other side too. Make sure both ends are well lubed.
I don't know, maybe there is some rust in there also. Take a hammer and whack a few times the end where the bolt protrudes through. Maybe you can break the rust bond that way.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Last edited by fmshaw1971; 05-03-2004 at 11:23 AM.
damn jay. mine came out very easy. probably the easiest mod i have ever done. i jacked up the rear. tapped the bolt with a hammer. then used a socket wrench to loosen. sorry i do not have any better ideas
I have a lower tie bar as well and haven't had it put on yet. I was wondering if anybody had any pics of their cars with it. I've had the tie bar for 2 years now and never got around to putting it on...
Here is a pic of my rear one. I don't have a pic of the front one because it's too hard to photograph. It blends in with the pavement so it's hard to see in the pic, but it's easily noticed on the street. I have had several people comment on it.
Jay, I think you had better give up at this point. You will damage something if you go much further. The only thing I could suggest is finding a way to rig it so that the bolt was actually soaking in liquid penetrant. If you built a little clay dam around the bolt and then poured or sprayed in the PB Blaster and let it soak for 24 hours, it might eventually work its way to the source of the problem. Short of that, sell the tie bar and move down south where we don't put salt on the roads.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Eh, forget the $78 an hour. Just find a couple of crackheads and tell them that you hid your vial in there to avoid the cops and you'll share it with them if they can get the bolt out. There is nothing a couple of crackheads can't do with the right motivation. Who do you think I had install my rear wing? Crackheads make great mechanics!
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
hey, i had a lil trouble but it wasnt the worst ive ever had.
i only had about a 2ft break bar and i kicekd it with my uncle holding the socket to the bolt.
try gettting the longest bar you can and using some leg strength on it. it'll come out. make sure you use a 6pt as a 12pt might strip the bolt. also make sure before you kick it to have someone hold the head of the socket tight on the bolt or the bolt may strip as well.
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