Hrmm I cant seem to be able to take the bolts off?!
The helms says 10mm and I got my 10mm out and it wont fit DOH!
I think its because the stud where the nut resides on is too long. And my socket wont completely go over it. ARGH. Anybody with suggestions?
btw...does the nut have a washer under it as well?
heh.. good luck getting it on. It too me and a friend to get mine on. i had to lower both struts down, place the spoon bar down, and rase them back up. I still then had to get a pry bar, and push it over a stud. Let me tell you, that bar will never come out again since it was such a PITA to get on!
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XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
I thought the strut tower bolts for frt and rear were 14mm? Use a 14mm long socket with a 3/8 or 1/2 breaker bar. It'll come off no prob. If the car is TOO low, it'll be a REAL ***** to put on due to the negative camber, but most cases just a little struggle...
good luck man!
Originally posted by dohcpower heh.. good luck getting it on. It too me and a friend to get mine on. i had to lower both struts down, place the spoon bar down, and rase them back up. I still then had to get a pry bar, and push it over a stud. Let me tell you, that bar will never come out again since it was such a PITA to get on!
we ARE talking about the rear strut bar right?
i had no problems whatsoever putting it on.
and about the bolt size, yes i do believe it was 14mm. sorry.
Originally posted by PreludeCoop the holes in the brackets on mine don't seem like they're going to fit at all, any suggestions for getting the holes to reach the bolts?
they should dood. I test fitted mine and its perfect.
mayb your car is lowered?
we ARE talking about the rear strut bar right?
i had no problems whatsoever putting it on.
and about the bolt size, yes i do believe it was 14mm. sorry.
heh.. my car was slammed when i put it on... but i jacked both rear wheels up, so that the chasis couldn't be flexing at all. It was still a pain in the ass. I dunno dood.. hehe.. maybe you got lucky and it fit right on.
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XBOX Live - Doadus51
2008 WRX Hatch with a couple mods
2010 Tundra DC 5.7L with more mods
2004 S2000 with even more mods
2002 RSX-S with the most mods
car is lowered slightly, has a camber kit, and alignment is all in spec. Any suggestions?
try what dochpower suggested. try jacking the car up and see if it will fit. However, when you tighten it to spec make sure its level on the ground again.
Originally posted by PreludeCoop the holes in the brackets on mine don't seem like they're going to fit at all, any suggestions for getting the holes to reach the bolts?
Put the brackets on first with out the bar. Then bolt on one side of the bar. If the bar "seems" too long, jack the car up from the middle tow hook. If the bar "seems" to be too short, then jack it up by placing jack at normal position in front of tire. In both cases raise it up until the whole in bar lines up with hole in bracket. Note: if the bar "seems" too short you are going to have to jack it up pretty far.
I have been told by a few people...they have worked as Pit crews for the indy 500 and Nascar races,.... that ALL top brace bars should be put on ONLY when the car is 'loaded'. This means that the car is on the ground at is final resting height.
Of course those cars also have the camber correction kits to go low that allow toe bar to be installed correctly. BUT jacking the car up to make the bar that is too long or too short fit means that when you lower the car down, the wheels and struts are NOT at the 'natural' location.
The bars is to prevent the 'bending' of the front or back strut towers during hard cornerings and turns, and NOT to keep them in a location you had to 'make' in order to get them to fit. This defeats the natural 'stance' of the car and actualy keeps your car 'stressed' when it is sitting on the ground.
They then went on to explain why the bars are polished ( to remove surface fizzures that weaken the bar and not for looks)...blah blah blah
As i am not a pro in these matters, I am just relaying a message...
As for my bar, it was too long and I cut it down, loosely installed it with the car at 'rest' and then tightened everything up. I had a circular bar, so it was possible.
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eX-Lude Owner - VTEC privileges Terminated 29th August 2002
Originally posted by Mz3silver I have been told by a few people...they have worked as Pit crews for the indy 500 and Nascar races,.... that ALL top brace bars should be put on ONLY when the car is 'loaded'. This means that the car is on the ground at is final resting height.
I know you should torque all bolts to spec when car in loaded and on ground.
Quote:
Originally posted by Mz3silver BUT jacking the car up to make the bar that is too long or too short fit means that when you lower the car down, the wheels and struts are NOT at the 'natural' location.
What is natural? Maybe you get turned your car to get it to it's location. You jsut got out of your car and the suspension moved ----> see what I mean, it is constantly moving. The "natural" stance changes every time you hit a bump, turn a corner, lower the stance of your car with springs, etc.
Quote:
Originally posted by Mz3silver As for my bar, it was too long and I cut it down, loosely installed it with the car at 'rest' and then tightened everything up. I had a circular bar, so it was possible.
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