Pulling the tranny - header? - Honda Prelude Forum

Daemione · 10-12-2006, 07:42 PM

So I'm finally getting around to replacing the clutch, and I'm about 2/3 through the disassembly right now. The Helms says I need to pull the lower header & exhaust up to the cat . . . is that really necessary? I can't see anything it's blocking under the car, and the couple diy's I found over on honda-tech make no mention of it.

Thanks . . .

Revi-Ra · 10-12-2006, 07:53 PM

Well i know when i did my tranny on my SH i had to remove the downpipe so i can remove the ATTS unit and be able to remove some bolts that held the tranny in place. You might have to remove it so you can take out your intermediate shaft and the tranny bolts.

Artifex · 10-12-2006, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daemione

So I'm finally getting around to replacing the clutch, and I'm about 2/3 through the disassembly right now. The Helms says I need to pull the lower header & exhaust up to the cat . . . is that really necessary? I can't see anything it's blocking under the car, and the couple diy's I found over on honda-tech make no mention of it.

Thanks . . .

No you don't need to. No idea why the manual says to.

You should definitely take off the lower cross member though. The engine cradle thingy. Makes life 10x easer.

Also, you don't need to remove the axles from the hubs (if you haven't already). They will come out of the tranny with the other end still in the hubs. Also don't forget to drain all the tranny fluid, or else you have a messy garage floor. When you are done you will need to fill the tranny up again, which means you need a length of clear tubing to stick into the filler hole.

I hope you have a buddy to help you with this, because this would suck to do by yourself. If I lived aywhere near you I would help.

Artifex · 10-12-2006, 08:03 PM

Also a few more words of wisdom:

1) Don't touch the clutch face with dirty hands. Oil will not come off the clutch face if it gets on there. You are very screwed if the clutch face gets dirty. It won't wear in properly, and probably won't grab right for the rest of its life.
2) Always replace the throw out bearing if you have the tranny off. Don't put it on backwards!
3) Make sure you lube the clutch splines before you put it on the mainshaft.
4) Use the clutch alignment tool you got with your clutch.
5) Be patient when putting the tranny back in. Sometimes it takes time to wiggle it into the right position.

Those are the big stuff I think.

71dsp · 10-12-2006, 08:11 PM

Getting the header off gives you a lot more freedom to droop the engine to get the tranny on/off.

Daemione · 10-12-2006, 08:12 PM

^^ Thanks - yeah, all makes sense, and matches advice I've read in other places. And yes, I'm doing this by myself . . .

Should be interesting.

Worst comes to worst, the guy who works maintenance here will be in on Monday morning, he can give me a hand heaving the tranny back into place.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revi-Ra

Well i know when i did my tranny on my SH i had to remove the downpipe so i can remove the ATTS unit and be able to remove some bolts that held the tranny in place. You might have to remove it so you can take out your intermediate shaft and the tranny bolts.

Oh - fawk . . . forgot about the ATTS. Well, I didn't forget about it - but yeah, I bet the header's blocking that bastard.

Daemione · 10-12-2006, 08:15 PM

Ideally, I'd like to pull the header so I can get the oil pan off anyway . . . it's been seeping oil for quite a while now, it'd be nice to reseal it & get that taken care of. I dunno, guess I'll take another look at it tomorrow.

71dsp · 10-12-2006, 08:31 PM

Well, you won't be able to do that with the tranny off. When removing the tranny, you remove 3 of the 4 engine mounts. I've found that working with an engine support that spans the fenders works great because it'll hold the engine up without the need for a jack underneath.

Daemione · 10-13-2006, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71dsp

Well, you won't be able to do that with the tranny off. When removing the tranny, you remove 3 of the 4 engine mounts.

Okay, it took me a while, but I finally figured it out - the front mount sits on the front crossmember that everyone suggests taking out . . . I paged through the Helms for quite a while counting mounts that need to be disconnected, could only find 2.

Maybe I'll pull the pan once I get the tranny back on. We'll see how tired I am of working on it at that point.

I've already discovered several things that I need to deal with that I wasn't counting on - torn boot on the slave cylinder, a cv-joint that's spraying grease around somehow (despite no visible tears), and of course, the bolts on the cat. ho-hum.

Daemione · 10-13-2006, 10:47 AM

Okay, I took a quick look this morning, and yeah, the manifold's definitely gotta come off so I can get the ATTS unit out . . . I don't know what I was thinking.

Looks like I'll be visiting a muffler shop next week. ho-hum.

71dsp · 10-13-2006, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daemione

Okay, it took me a while, but I finally figured it out - the front mount sits on the front crossmember that everyone suggests taking out . . . I paged through the Helms for quite a while counting mounts that need to be disconnected, could only find 2.

Maybe I'll pull the pan once I get the tranny back on. We'll see how tired I am of working on it at that point.

I've already discovered several things that I need to deal with that I wasn't counting on - torn boot on the slave cylinder, a cv-joint that's spraying grease around somehow (despite no visible tears), and of course, the bolts on the cat. ho-hum.

Only one bolt on the rear engine mount actually bolts directly to the block. The others attach to the trans, IIRC.

Daemione · 10-13-2006, 03:54 PM

Here's the happy fellows . . . any suggestions for getting them off before I just cut them out?

And just for fun, here's half of the heatshield (well, 1/4 of it now):

liquidxnitez · 10-13-2006, 04:10 PM

Dave IIRC didn't you do a clutch job a while ago tho?

Daemione · 10-13-2006, 04:11 PM

Nope. Bought the clutch & flywheel last spring - only now getting around to putting them in.

liquidxnitez · 10-13-2006, 04:16 PM

Ooo that make sense. Hah!

You can try liquid wrench, torching the bolts, muffler shop, or goto a hardware store and get the socket kit that removes damaged bolt heads.

Artifex · 10-13-2006, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daemione

And just for fun, here's half of the heatshield (well, 1/4 of it now)

And that, my friends, is all the reason I need not to live where it's cold. I actually turned down all the NE schools because I hate cold weather...

Daemione · 10-13-2006, 08:34 PM

Yup, salt does have it's disadvantages.

I went ahead and cut off the nuts/bolts - there wasn't enough shape left on the nuts to even get a socket to hang on to. I still need to finish the job & get the remnants out, but that shouldn't be too bad. I tried hitting the stubs with a hammer to pop them out the back, but they're not going anywhere - the backs are bigger rustier blobs than the fronts were. I'll drill them out & replace them with some new hardware when I reinstall.

But anyway, a new problem - can't get the driver's side driveshaft out. See my new thread for details.