|
Progress Sway Bar Install Tips
Got the progress 27mm adjustable rear sway in the mail this week and performed the install today after work. I followed the directions exactly and ran into some troubles, so this is my revised instructions for installing the bar.
disclaimer: i claim no responsibility if you mess this up, this is simply my experience with the install. ok.
1. block front wheels, jack then jackstand rear of car, remove wheels (loosen lugs while the wheels are on the ground if you're using a breaker bar or OEM supplied equipment).
2. get underneath the car and begin uninstalling the OEM bar. Start with the endlinks (a thin bar connected to the suspension/control arm that is on a ball joint. the bar is roughly 1/4" thin), using a 17mm socket and a rachet. It will probably be a little gritty from driving so you might want to get a little brake cleaner or wd40 and spray it down.
3. Remove the brackets that bolt into the chassis that hold the sway bar using a 14mm socket. the left side bracket is no problem, but the right side should be removed from the bar itself because there isn't a lot of clearance between the muffler and the chassis.
4. try not to get all kinds of dirt in your eye.
5. Bolt the LEFT bracket that came with the Progress into the chassis using the supplied 8mm (14mm head) bolts and washers. you'll see that the new bracket has three holes, when lined up you'll see that the third hole (the one closest to the rear of the bar) is the bolt that secures your gas pipe to the chassis. unbolt this with a 12mm socket and continue to line up the Progress bracket. The bracket should be facing forward (meaning that the flat side faces front). Using the 6mm (10mm head) bolt supplied and a washer for the gas pipe hole, and the 8mm for the 2 remaining, secure the left bracket.
6. carefully slide the sway bar in between the maze of suspension, muffler, and chassis. this will be a little tricky but i started from the right side, sliding the end in first and lining it up with the general area of the endlink, then carefull maneuvering it so that the left side is in place. Bolt the sway bar to the endlinks (left and right), using whatever setting you'd like (stiff, medium, soft), do not tighten all the way.
7. Next, grease the rubber D bushings supplied by progress with the supplied grease packet. slip them onto the sway bar at about the points where the brackets are/will be.
8. Now, line up the bar in pretty much the alignment you want to bolt it in, and attach the RIGHT bracket. The right bracket uses a pair of 8mm bolts and another 6mm bolt that replaces the bolt that secures the heatshield between the muffler and the trunk/chassis. getting the center 8mm bolt is a bit of a task but not impossible. Remember that the RIGHT bracket faces the OPPOSITE direction as the LEFT.
9. now use the U-brackets supplied to connect the bar to the brackets. using the 3/8" bolt and nuts and a washer. the u brackets slide directly over the D bushings and will line up with the 2 holes on both brackets. because the U-brackets have a sliding gap for the bolt, do NOT torque the nuts all the way until you have secured it (with the help of a friend or your knee) at the right hieght. Then torque the nuts.
10. Push or pull the sway bar so that it is centered (the endlinks are not angled funny or the sway bar is not jammed against the ebrake line). Take the supplied collars and what should be the last set of bolts in the back (hex socket driven) and put them on the outside of the D-bushing Ubracket setup. This will prevent the bar from shifting while driving. Make sure the bar is balanced from left to right so that these collars can sit flush with the D-bushings.
11. That should be it, put your wheels on, lower the car, and go find a twisty mountain road and treat the new fishtail monster to a spirited jog.
|
Linear Mode
