Alright... so i've had slight problems off and on with my car starting. Sometimes for a week or so, it will start fine. Othertimes, it will start and stay around 0 rpms running VERY roughly. This will continue for a few seconds, and then the rpms shoot up to normal idle, and the car drives fine.
Well, as of thursday, the car BARELY started for me. It had been slow starting (as i described already) all day, and then when i was finally headed home, it took about 15 minutes for me to get it started. Again, ran fine after that.
Well, I had my fuel filter changed the next day. I've know and felt like this needed to be changed, and it was. The car was definitely more responsive in the lower gears. Anyways, that night it was cold and i tried to start it... nothing.
It would turn over and catch for a second, and then die. Same situation this morning. I have not had the ignition recall fixed... but i'm not sure if that causes this problem.
Any tips or comments? Thanks.
Shane
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Shane
'98 Base 5 Spd
Quote:
Being white does not give you immunity from the label “terrorist”, nor does it give you the privilege to stereotype a person of different descent. For decades, racism has long been frowned upon by anyone even somewhat intelligent in this country, but since 9/11/01 it has become acceptable for Americans to be racists together as “One Nation under God”, and it’s nothing more than ignorance driven by fear.
The very first thing you should change is your spark plugs. You should also perform a compression test to check on the health of the engine. Fuel filter would have been one of the last things on my list. Always check ignition, compression, and electrical first. I highly doubt that you have a fuel delivery problem.
The very first thing you should change is your spark plugs. You should also perform a compression test to check on the health of the engine. Fuel filter would have been one of the last things on my list. Always check ignition, compression, and electrical first. I highly doubt that you have a fuel delivery problem.
The reason i thought it might be something clogged (fuel filter) is because the car would run like **** like it was starving for something for a couple of seconds. After that, it was as if something "freed up" and the car would be 100% fine.
My plugs are new. (within 10k miles)... What do you suggest i check electrical wise? Distributor and such? Compression SHOULD be fine, as i had to have the head rebuilt due to a misshift about 15k miles ago. Also, whats involved w/ the ignition? Thanks Sorry i'm a newbie w/ engines.
Shane
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Shane
'98 Base 5 Spd
Quote:
Being white does not give you immunity from the label “terrorist”, nor does it give you the privilege to stereotype a person of different descent. For decades, racism has long been frowned upon by anyone even somewhat intelligent in this country, but since 9/11/01 it has become acceptable for Americans to be racists together as “One Nation under God”, and it’s nothing more than ignorance driven by fear.
maybe your plugs aren't gapped right? Maybe perhaps check your grounds? The ground for the main engine harness hooks up right under the thermostat housing. It's the ground for the electrical components in the dizzy/ignition coil/ignitor etc. Perhaps a short maybe?
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-Steven
Quote:
Originally Posted by vile10
not to offend anyone but usually when you hear a loud noise but never see the car for a long while, that's probably a civic
Okay, today i took out all the plugs. Every one of them was wet with gas except plug # 3. This implies to me that the others are not firing? And obviously, the car cannot run on 1. What could this mean though? I need to fix this myself because i'm low on cash. How should I approach this from here. Cap & Rotor or Ignition coil?
Shane
__________________
Shane
'98 Base 5 Spd
Quote:
Being white does not give you immunity from the label “terrorist”, nor does it give you the privilege to stereotype a person of different descent. For decades, racism has long been frowned upon by anyone even somewhat intelligent in this country, but since 9/11/01 it has become acceptable for Americans to be racists together as “One Nation under God”, and it’s nothing more than ignorance driven by fear.
Also, i was reading about the ignition switch recall which again, I HAVE NOT had fixed.
Here's the symptom list:
Quote:
Electrical contacts in the ignition switch can wear prematurely due to high electrical current passing through the switch. Worn out ignition contacts could cause the engine to stall without warning. Although the engine will restart in most cases, if your engine stalls while driving in traffic or at highway speeds, you're at risk of being involved in a crash. Difficulties starting the engine (for example, hard-to-start, stalls immediately after starting, etc.) may indicate that the ignition switch is failing.
Should I have the car towed to honda and get the recalled fixed? If so, will they pay for the wrecker? Or should i check other parts of the ignition?
__________________
Shane
'98 Base 5 Spd
Quote:
Being white does not give you immunity from the label “terrorist”, nor does it give you the privilege to stereotype a person of different descent. For decades, racism has long been frowned upon by anyone even somewhat intelligent in this country, but since 9/11/01 it has become acceptable for Americans to be racists together as “One Nation under God”, and it’s nothing more than ignorance driven by fear.
Tested my ignition coil with multimeter. I tested from circuit A to C as said in the HELMS, and got way too low a reading. I was pretty sure that it was because of my multimeter not having a lower and more detailed setting (it's supposed to be in between .64 and .78 ohms.) I headed over to Auto Zone and tested with their multimeter, and got the same results.
I also got a new one off the shelf and it was teh same, so I assume mine is fine. I guess that rules that out. Anyone have any ideas of what to check next?
Notes:
- Previsouly: Rough start and IMMEDIATE die, would eventually run after a while.
- Now wont start.
- Took out spark plugs, plugs 1, 2, and 4 were wet with gasoline. Plug 3 was dry?
- Seems as though I'm getting no spark. I dont know though. If the plugs are wet, they're not sparking correct?
Shane
__________________
Shane
'98 Base 5 Spd
Quote:
Being white does not give you immunity from the label “terrorist”, nor does it give you the privilege to stereotype a person of different descent. For decades, racism has long been frowned upon by anyone even somewhat intelligent in this country, but since 9/11/01 it has become acceptable for Americans to be racists together as “One Nation under God”, and it’s nothing more than ignorance driven by fear.
Last edited by krazyshane; 02-21-2006 at 09:14 PM.
Being white does not give you immunity from the label “terrorist”, nor does it give you the privilege to stereotype a person of different descent. For decades, racism has long been frowned upon by anyone even somewhat intelligent in this country, but since 9/11/01 it has become acceptable for Americans to be racists together as “One Nation under God”, and it’s nothing more than ignorance driven by fear.
I think I'm with everyone else, this is probably an ignition problem. If you've tested the ignition coil with several multimeters and you get the same results, pickup another coil from a used auto parts place. I seriously doubt it's that recall thing causing this problem. BUT, you could always tow it to the dealer and have them fix the recall for free, and in the process get them to tell you what your problem probably is (I'm a fan of milking them for information while I'm there). good luck.
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~Matt http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2928232 Intake: AEM V2 TB: 68mm ProProducts IM: Euro R IM Insulator Gasket: Hondata Header: Hytech knock off with 2.5 collector, ceramic coated Cat: Vibrant 2.5" SS Exhaust: 2.5" SS w/ Magnaflow mufflers Tuning: NepTune RTP w/ Wideband Underdrive Pullies: AEM
Well, what the hell. I've tested the Ignition Coil as i described. Terminals A to C should be between .64 and .78 ohms, and I get 0. 100% connectivity.
Last night, I cleaned off the Cap and rotor (that only 50k miles old) and it still wouldnt start.
Today, i went back to Autozone again thinking that the Ignition coil might be bad. Same results... the new ones and mine both read 0 ohms. Maybe helms is mismarked
Autozone guy talked to me about Ignition Control Module. I come home, read about that. My Tach has been fine, and I have no CEL code, so i think it's okay. I still go through the first steps of testing input to it (one of these verifies that the ignition coil is okay). Still not having any clue whats going on, i just put it all back together.
For ****s and grins, i try to start, and on the 2nd try, it fires. I let it run for a while to charge battery back up. Turn it off for a bit actually bolt the ignition coil back in (it was just sitting in there) and go get my wallet inside. Come back out, the car fires up perfectly. I went for a little joyride this time, running great.
Now, I dont know why it's running... I didnt do anything, except test parts and rehook it back up. Any ideas? I dont want it to leave me stranded somewhere...
Shane
__________________
Shane
'98 Base 5 Spd
Quote:
Being white does not give you immunity from the label “terrorist”, nor does it give you the privilege to stereotype a person of different descent. For decades, racism has long been frowned upon by anyone even somewhat intelligent in this country, but since 9/11/01 it has become acceptable for Americans to be racists together as “One Nation under God”, and it’s nothing more than ignorance driven by fear.
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