It went pretty smoothly over all. He's a basic run of what all I've got left in my brain after the 12 hours it took us.
Everything basically bolts run up, except the clutch, reverse switch, and cruise control cut off.
The D2 hardened steel spacer that I made to the specs of the rubber master cylinder gasket worked PERFECTLY. It also gives more surface area for the clutch to mount to the firewall... so it's pretty solid.
I swapped out the ICU / ECU and used a T5 Honda key that I had cut to my 'ludes ignition key pattern (but had programmed with the wreck's key information). [The car started right up with the manual ECU.]
The car did not start initally. I was a little confused. We then plugged in the Auto gear position switch (left in park) and the car started right up. I gather that when I wire the clutch this problem will no longer be an issue. [All the car's I drove as a kid required you to remember to push the clutch in...non of this high-faluet'en stuff with the car not strating if you don't put the clutch in - so I don't much care either way...]
Feeding the OEM hydrolic line for the clutch was a *****... but can be done and match the factory install locations. That was the first hard part. The lower brake line clips have spots on them for the clutch hydrolic lines.
Feeding the shift cables was also a *****. One of the important facts the Maz dude didn't cover was that there is a location for the cable bracket to attach itself to one of the sub frame cross members. [This particluar one covers the "If you spill blood its a successful job" rule.] FEED THE CABLES TO THE TRANNY BEFORE YOU HOOK THEM UP INSIDE THE CAR.
Shift Cables: Make sure you have all of the clips for the cable (both the trans end and shifter end). I didn't have the shifter end clip, so I leaving the center console off until Wed when it's in at the dealer.
The Maz dude was right... getting the ball joints off was impossible. So we followed his ideas without even knowing it... (We dissambled everything else.... -grin-)
I used the drive shafts off the wreck as they only had 60,000 miles on them. The auto ones would be fine. The half-shafts are only slightly different. The end on the manual one that goes into the differential is slightly longer at the differential end.
You'll want to replace the seals at the differential on the tranny. ($7.00 in parts).
You'll want to replace the seal on the bearing on the half-shaft.
You'll want to order ALL of the nuts and bolts for the front end. You'll also want to order all new bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate. This is the best way to do things.
Air tools. The only way to go.
You only need the trans side mount... it would be best to replace the rear mount with the manual mount... BUT, after 8 hours of work you might be inclined to use the auto rear mount like I did. The two are slightly different. (Not it height, but the # of bolts.)
Oh, take out the drivers seat. It just makes life easier.
If the autotensioner was making noise before... it'll make more noise now. It probably has something to do with the engine reving more in the 1800 to 3500 RPM range as a result of the gearing.
The Auto cruises at 80PH at 3600 RPM in 4th gear. The Manual cruises at 80MPH at 4000 RPMs. Strange. You'd expect it to be the other way...
The manual tranny has a lot more power through-out all gears. It's zipper. It's nice to have 5 gears.
There's a lot more space on the passenger's side engine compartment.
The Auto tranny is about 75lbs or so heavier than the manual tranny. (I guess I can put more ammo in the car now... -jk)
I never realized there were so many wires that are attached to the auto tranny. Make sure that you wire tie them out of the way.
Disconnect the lines from the tranny cooler. Let them drip out. It's just easier.
You don't need a vacuum pump to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. You need two people, a wrench, and a few minutes of time. Basically, you push the clutch in fast (with the bleeder open), and you slowly release the clutch (with the bleeder closed). If you release the clutch quickly it doesn't draw in more fluid to circulate into the system.
good to hear another job done...zameoj did you get my pm about what to jump on the auto ecu to get the CEL to go away...also can you unplug a o2 sensor or block the egr valve or some other minor thing that would make the cel come on just incase something happens and the 'jumping' on the ecu just doesnt ignore all cel's thanks
__________________
--Tony--
AOL I.M.-- UZ 2 B AUTO
I tried to PM you but your account was full the other day, so i emailed you with info. I can send it again if you like. As far as getting a CEL: My girl was griving it the other day and the check engine light came on so I know it still works. I have the OBD II workaround so it went away as soon as she turned the car off. if you use t-taps (NOT scotch locks) you can take it off easy if you don't want it anymore. green
Originally posted by zameoj I tried to PM you but your account was full the other day, so i emailed you with info. I can send it again if you like. As far as getting a CEL: My girl was griving it the other day and the check engine light came on so I know it still works. I have the OBD II workaround so it went away as soon as she turned the car off. if you use t-taps (NOT scotch locks) you can take it off easy if you don't want it anymore. green
just curious what did the cel come on for...i dun want to do this if it gives a cel for something else wrong lol.
__________________
--Tony--
AOL I.M.-- UZ 2 B AUTO
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Nothing has changed.
Linear Mode
