So I am throwing a P0133 code. I thought I fouled it after doing a seafoam treeatment, which I figured would foul it, I knew it was old... So I bought a Denso first time fit from sparkplugs.com and installed it thursday. Friday the code came back! It still says the exact same thing as before I changed it out! P0133!! ahhhhh! I unplugged the negative battery terminal to do the job and all so it did turn the light off...
What else could be wrong? I'm hoping that someone on this developed forum has a answer and some enlightenment on my issue Thanks in advance for your help
Oh, and also I already searched the entire forum all the way to post dates in 2002 and couldn't find any more than I already knew If anyone can help or direct me to a thread with some answers I'd really appreciate it!
Well that would cause a secondary O2 Code, or P0420 right? Cat couldn't cause a failure of the primary can it? I have an aftermarket High flow, carsound I think, with 2 drilled foulers in the secondary bung
And about 145K on the car
Your right the P0133 is for the main sensor. Check for an exhaust leak, and check wiring on the harness. Do you have a multi-meter?
Did you use anti-seize and get some on the sensor? Also try reseting it and see if it comes back. The code does not mean the sensor is necessarily dead, as it can be caused by slow responses.
What is the best way to check for an exhaust leak? And which wiring should I check, or where should I check? I don't have a multi meter I think... unless my brother has one. I did use anti-seize but was very careful to not get any on the sensor. Should I reset it using the 7.5 amp fuse for the clock/radio? And the specific description for the code was sensor 1 bank 1 slow response... Thanks for your help solid :bightumb:
Yeah clock/radio works or remove the negative battery cable. Check the wiring to the sensor , and you can also check it in the cabin. If you have a HELMS you can see the harness layout, but I think it is the solid white wire.
Exhaust leaks can be tricky, but since it is your primary check from there up. Where the exhaust manifold bolts up, any welds, etc. You can also see if your auto parts store rents stethoscopes, as that makes it easier.
Well I have a DC stainless header, but got that quite awhile ago, could it just be causing problems now? Also, would spraying water around the welds, or bolt spots would that be an effective way to search for a leak? You know so I can see air bubbles pushing through the water?
Ok, well I'm going to pull the fuse for like 30 min, may be excessive but just want to be sure. I'll have to pull up the carpet and get to the ecu sometime this week or next weekend and check the wiring there
Wouldn't a different, specific code throw if it was any of the above? I plan to check for leaks but I just thought ignition problems or egr problems throw their own codes?
I took it to a very reputable honda shop today, the owner specializes in H22's, he's on this forum actually, username 2point6... Anyway they said I most likely got a bad sensor from sparkplugs.com, they are pretty sensitive so maybe it got roughed up during shipping? Anyway, I already called them and they said to send it back with a note that it's defective and they'll send back a new one. I'm gonna politely ask in the letter for them to ship it a little better, like some kind of bubble wrap or something so the sensor isn't jumping around inside the box they ship it in... I'll keep it updated, hopefully I can figure it out before emissions next month!
Wouldn't a different, specific code throw if it was any of the above? I plan to check for leaks but I just thought ignition problems or egr problems throw their own codes?
I took it to a very reputable honda shop today, the owner specializes in H22's, he's on this forum actually, username 2point6... Anyway they said I most likely got a bad sensor from sparkplugs.com, they are pretty sensitive so maybe it got roughed up during shipping? Anyway, I already called them and they said to send it back with a note that it's defective and they'll send back a new one. I'm gonna politely ask in the letter for them to ship it a little better, like some kind of bubble wrap or something so the sensor isn't jumping around inside the box they ship it in... I'll keep it updated, hopefully I can figure it out before emissions next month!
A bad sensor could happen, but I think it is unlikely. Here is why
Think about how much; heat, vibration, cold, humidity, dirt, etc... That the sensor is subjected to while on the vehicle. I doubt it could be "roughed up" from shipping. It is however possible you got a bad sensor from Denso or NGK.
If you have engine problems it can foul the O2 sensor quickly:
-Lots of water in the fuel (from gas tank or head gasket leak)
-Engine running too rich, and fouling the O2 with excess crap (carbon, fuel, etc)
If you want exchange the sensor, install the new one, and reset the ECU. I just don't think you can kill one from UPS shipping.
To check the exhaust leak with a stethoscope you are going to listen for leaking in key areas. At the exhaust ports, at the welds of the header, at the O2 sensor bung even. Just listen around for air movement. You shouldn't have any gases escaping other than at the muffler.
I'm going to try the exchange route... I hope it's as simple as that. Otherwise I'm going to pull my hair out because I have emissions in may Thanks again for the tips
Ok PO I'm bringing this thread back from the dead. I am STILL throwing this code after changing the spark plug wires, cap and rotor (all from mike at import replacement parts btw ) and I even swapped my primary with my buddy's lude so I know it was a functional O2 sensor. Do I have a leak then? I'm going to put the headers and cat back to stock and I hope it fixes it. Also, solid, if you have any sort of time can you explain what wiring to check exactly and where to find it? I don't have a helms Thanks in advance again for everyone's help
No I haven't... I don't have a helms so I can't figure out which wires to test I'm putting a new exhaust manifold gasket on as well as the stock headers and b-pipe, also replacing those little donut shaped gaskets betweek the mani and the b-pipe... I wish I knew what wires to test tho
Thanks in advance for your help 
If anyone can help or direct me to a thread with some answers I'd really appreciate it! 
, and you can also check it in the cabin. If you have a HELMS you can see the harness layout, but I think it is the solid white wire.
