PChapman55

Checked the fuse and it looked fine/new. Since they're pretty cheap, I might just get some new ones and swap it anyway. The layout was a bit different than you mentioned (no big deal). The cooling fan fuse was 20A I think. AutoZone didn't have any new relays so as soon as I can get one it's on to step 2. Thanks again for your tips; I'm all ears for anything else you got.

pyro_maniac55

wow i guess i'm going to sound dumb but i thought all fith gens had vtec, guess not, now i have to go rethink everything i ever knew,... or thought i knew

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this is my cockpit

hondatune32206

^ I have a 4th gen lol

pyro_maniac55

????????????????????????????????????
4th 92-96
5th 97-01

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this is my cockpit

hondatune32206

That is PChapman55

I am not PChampman55 lol

pyro_maniac55

oh dang sorry,

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this is my cockpit

IgnacioLT

Did you figure this problem out?

I thnik my radiator fan motor just went out...

I couldn't test it because the connector is so low and my hand doesn't bend that way...

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MOO!

slvrwnd

If your not able to jump the radiator fan from there, then you can jump it from the relay or from the radiator fan switch with the car on(II). Jumping from the switch will turn on both fans.

PChapman55

Well it wasn't the fan, even though the fan wasn't working. The temp gauge still shoots up when the AC is on, and the AC also seems to suck a lot more juice out of my car than it should. It doesn't accelerate nearly as fast when the AC is on. Any new ideas?

ndantzler

roll the windows down?

PChapman55

Phoenix.

pIERCE

could the radiators have something blocking the air flow? You could have something within the water passages within the engine blocking water flow, so maybe you could try a collant system flush.

I know this is an extreme stretch, but the compressor could be malfunctioning. if the compressor isn't operating at full effeciency, it may be causing more friction and doing less work. This could remotely cause the engine to get hotter and work harder than normal and get hotter....yet if it got hotter, the colling system would naturally coll the engine back down...so.... I would think it is your cooling system, not the A/C's fault, no matter how it reacts only when the A/C is on. The only possibility is as I stated before, there is a certain blockage of water flow, but this blockage doesn't effect the cooling of the engine itself, only when there is extra load on the engine does the extra cooling that is needed bieng blocked, and thus only overheats when the A/C(extra load) is on......well, like I said, it's a stretch, but possible....

simply...have your system flushed, not just drained, but flushed at a radiator shop(or if you know how to do it; I believe you need a pressure or steam washer). Good luck.

blck_2.2prelude

hey huys im having overheating problems... i didnt have any problems until after i swapped my clutch and flywheel... i put a new thermostat and a new fluidyne alluminum racing radiator and it still over heats!!! what could be the problem??? like i said i didnt have this problem until after i changed my clutch and flywheel which was yesterday!!!
any advice or help would be very appreciated!!!

indylude18

^Start a new thread. Bumping 2 year old threads won't get you any help.

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Bluetop H23a Vtec Swapped NHBP '99 Base