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Old 04-27-2010, 10:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Only getting spark on one cylinder!!!

Tonight I was just driving down the street going the speed limit (35mph) nothing crazy, and my car started to slow down, my check engine light immediately came on and the engine shut off right after. I managed to roll it into a parking lot and ran some tests. I made sure I was getting fuel and everything but when I checked for spark only my number two plug wire showed spark. The other three cylinders arent getting anything. I tried other plug wires in place of the number two plug wire and they are all fine so next i checked cap and rotor. They look relatively new except for slight corrosion, so I decided to replace those first but nothing changed. I cant decide if its the coil or the distributor to replace next but more importantly, can anyone explain this phenomenon? lol how does one cylinder spark and the others not? makes no sense to me
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Fully built head (pro 2's) + stock bottom end, aem v2, dsm blue tops, walbro 255, 2.5" exhaust = 153.1whp lmao


Update: made 149.7whp with the same setup but new plugs, plug wires, type s pistons, new bearings, and a colder/more humid day...wtf yo
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you pull the CEL code?
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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^^It's probably a misfire, not specific.

Try the connection to the dist, and maybe get a new rotor/cap and see if that helps.
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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^^It's probably a misfire, not specific.

Try the connection to the dist, and maybe get a new rotor/cap and see if that helps.
Uh he said he replaced the cap and rotor. Might be in the distributer itself or maybe it's the CPS.
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Old 04-29-2010, 10:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Uh he said he replaced the cap and rotor. Might be in the distributer itself or maybe it's the CPS.
I obviously didn't read the whole thing word for word.

Man, this sounds really odd. Could it be an ECU problem? Something is not ordering the coil/ignition to fire. ?
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah I tested the dizzy, the coil, and all connections including plug wires. I opened my valve cover up (even though I could feel compression coming out of the oil cap) to double check that my timing belt is okay and it was shredded So i guess since the cams weren't moving, the rotor was stuck hitting one plug wire and thats why one cylinder was sparking. I'm literally gonna cry if i have valve damage
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Fully built head (pro 2's) + stock bottom end, aem v2, dsm blue tops, walbro 255, 2.5" exhaust = 153.1whp lmao


Update: made 149.7whp with the same setup but new plugs, plug wires, type s pistons, new bearings, and a colder/more humid day...wtf yo
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sucks man hope the best for your valves. I wouldn't get my hopes up or anything though. =(
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Old 04-30-2010, 02:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Kind of makes you wonder why honda didn't use a timing chain set up rather than a timing belt. Timing chains are pretty much good for the life of the engine. They get oil from the oil pan. And yes you can have a DOHC 4 banger with a timing chain. I wonder how hard it would be for some company to make a kit... I know a lot of people prefer having a belt because it is quieter weighs less and is less drag on the engine. However a chain is 100x more reliable...
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Kind of makes you wonder why honda didn't use a timing chain set up rather than a timing belt. Timing chains are pretty much good for the life of the engine. They get oil from the oil pan. And yes you can have a DOHC 4 banger with a timing chain. I wonder how hard it would be for some company to make a kit... I know a lot of people prefer having a belt because it is quieter weighs less and is less drag on the engine. However a chain is 100x more reliable...
I dont know about your chain knowledge but k20s - k24 are chain driven those are quieter than any other belt driven engine that I have ever heard. I dont think people prefer belt at all its just that you cant get chain and not many people know cars can be chain driven hell I would go for chain any day why? Less maintenance costs.
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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...k20s - k24 are chain driven...
S2000's are chain-driven, too.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I fixed it all up, replaced the two belts and the water pump. Thank god no valve damage. But now my oil light won't turn off. It's really dim but it still bothers me. I have plenty of oil and when i take off the oil cap I can see oil pumping and everything. Is there a way to test the pressure sensor?
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Fully built head (pro 2's) + stock bottom end, aem v2, dsm blue tops, walbro 255, 2.5" exhaust = 153.1whp lmao


Update: made 149.7whp with the same setup but new plugs, plug wires, type s pistons, new bearings, and a colder/more humid day...wtf yo
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Old 05-06-2010, 11:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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man you have to becareful, that oil pressure light is never a good thing. sometimes it is the sensor but after a timing belt failure like that i doubt that is the case.
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