I have a 97 lude. When I changed the spark plugs the other day I noticed there was a considerable amount of oil in the 3rd and 4th cylinders when I took off the spark plug cap. The plugs were covered in oil when I took them out. My friend thought it might be the valve cover gasket (I think thats what its called) that needs to be replaced? My car has been bogging down and doesn't seem to have much power. Just wondering if you guys have any insight into what might be causing this, and any info on how to repair it? Thanks in advance!
hey, im only 21 and still learning more and more everyday
haha I'm just messing with you. I can tell you know quite a bit about cars. Don't mind Kronn, some days he can be a bit abrasive, but we still love him.
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Hard to tell because it was dripping oil when I pulled it out. When I pulled the cap off the spark plug (before I took the spark plug out) there was oil on the top of the spark plug and on the cap. Anyways I'm planning on replacing the valve cover gasket, hopefully that fixes it
Then that's almost certainly what it is. I find it pretty unlikely that your valve seals or rings would be so bad as to be leaking a ton of oil into your cylinders that somehow wasn't getting burned at the same time as your spark plug tube seals were leaking. So that's probably all it is.
This happened to my buddies s2k, I put the plugs back in and cleaned the tubes out with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. I tried to get as much of the gunk out the top of the tubes as I could and most of the rest would come out when I pulled the plugs back out. But since I used carb cleaner, any that did drop down into the cylinder would just get burned off when we restarted the car. Of course you should do this before you remove the VC to replace the seals. You don't actually have to clean the tubes, but I'd certainly recommend it.
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I had oil when i pulled my spark plug wires off as well. Changed my valve cover gasket and the spark plug grommets and no more oil! It was like 25.00 for the valve cover gasket, and 3.50 each for the grommets/gaskets for the spark plug wells.
-might as well change your spark plugs if you haven't done so within the last 60,000 miles or so
Spark plug change intervals depend on a number of factors. If you're using platinum or iridium, you can go 50,000 to 100,000 before they actually need to be changed. Copper is a slightly better conductor, but should not be used in high compression NA or any FI setups, due to its more fragile nature. You don't want the electrode coming apart, and platinum and iridium can both handle intense heat and pressure, as well as resist damage from preignition, better than copper. But if you have an engine with stock internals and no boost, you can use copper, but you'll need to change the plugs every 10-20k miles, as they'll wear out faster.
Either type of plug will get fouled from time to time in a stock Prelude, as they run fairly rich. You can improve performance and extend the service life of plugs by cleaning them with a toothbrush and carb cleaner, checking and correcting the gap, and reapplying anti-seize every time you do an oil change. Change them when they show significant signs of wear, are too fouled to be fully cleaned, or show signs of carbon tracing. Index your plugs too if you want, but this takes forever to do properly, and is not worth over or under tightening your plugs and stripping the threads in the aluminum head.
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-Andrew-
'01 Premium White Pearl Type SH-Type-S swap, ATTS Baby!!!
FYI, in my Grand National days working at Dynotech Performance and with other GM-performance specific shops of the day, we were regularly running 20+psi of boost through our 231cid V6 engines on copper Autolight plugs without a problem.
The owner's 87 Turbo Buick was running in the 9s at 135mph on Autolight copper plugs. We also ran copper plugs in a 1996 twin turbo Impala SS pushing 1000hp and 800ft.lbs. No plug problems.
Is there something different with these Honda 4cyl engines under higher compression (NA or Forced Induction) that makes them particularly harsh on plugs when compared to other brand engines?
BTW, I run NGK V-Power copper plugs and average 25-30k on them in a stock H22 engine.
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Last edited by TheJGB-2KTypeSH; 10-17-2010 at 04:12 PM.
FYI, in my Grand National days working at Dynotech Performance and with other GM-performance specific shops of the day, we were regularly running 20+psi of boost through our 231cid V6 engines on copper Autolight plugs without a problem.
The owner's 87 Turbo Buick was running in the 9s at 135mph on Autolight copper plugs. We also ran copper plugs in a 1996 twin turbo Impala SS pushing 1000hp and 800ft.lbs. No plug problems.
Is there something different with these Honda 4cyl engines under higher compression (NA or Forced Induction) that makes them particularly harsh on plugs when compared to other brand engines?
BTW, I run NGK V-Power copper plugs and average 25-30k on them in a stock H22 engine.
I don't know anything specific about copper plugs being more prone to failure, that's just what I've always been told. And from the SRT-4 world (my other car), people occasionally have issues with copper plugs losing their center electrode. The thinking is that the metal is softer, so its more likely to come apart under a preignition condition. But then again, some people still prefer it. Since it is softer, its not nearly as likely to damage your engine as a piece of iridium or platinum would be.
I've personally never had any problems with either. Been running iridiums in the Dodge with no problems, and I love the copper NGKs in my Prelude. I change 'em every 10 to 15 just b/c they're so cheap and it can't hurt. If you have experience running copper plugs in boosted cars with no problems, then I would go with that. It would certainly be good to be able to afford new plugs all the time, if nothing else. Again, if copper works for ya, then I'd stick with it.
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'01 Premium White Pearl Type SH-Type-S swap, ATTS Baby!!!
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