Originally posted by andrewdelvard Just reset the ecu every week or so and you'll be fine. The ecu will have to go through the learning process all over again.
how would i go about resetting the ecu?? i've never reset the ecu before....so does this mean my car is performing like it's stock again now?
how would i go about resetting the ecu?? i've never reset the ecu before....so does this mean my car is performing like it's stock again now?
OK Don't worry, it's very simple to do. Pop the hood, take off the fuse cover in the top left corner. Remove the 7.5 volt radio fuse for about 30 secs.
Put it back.
Thats it.
Once you start the car don't worry about hitting the gas or anything like that, it's not a problem, the ecu learning curve has just started all over again.....
Then depending on how much driving you do, do it again in about a week.
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OK Don't worry, it's very simple to do. Pop the hood, take off the fuse cover in the top left corner. Remove the 7.5 volt radio fuse for about 30 secs.
Put it back.
Thats it.
Once you start the car don't worry about hitting the gas or anything like that, it's not a problem, the ecu learning curve has just started all over again.....
Then depending on how much driving you do, do it again in about a week.
this could prove to be a dumb question, but do i have to warm up the engine or anything and do it while the car is running? a friend said that i should make sure my car is warm first..thanks oh...and will i gain much back after resetting it since i've never done it b4 (3yrs)? i'm so clueless
can't you just dissconnect the negative battery terminal for like 30 seconds? that will reset the ecu too. If you have i/e do you think the gains will go down after a while b/c of obdll?
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finally got a pic!!! thanks to 98vtec
[img]http://www.*********************.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wOTg1MDk2czQxM2RmZDMxeTU0MQ%3D%3D[/img]
You can also disconnect the postive battery terminal, not sure about the negative..............
Or you can do the ecu reset mod on ntpog
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this could prove to be a dumb question, but do i have to warm up the engine or anything and do it while the car is running? a friend said that i should make sure my car is warm first..thanks oh...and will i gain much back after resetting it since i've never done it b4 (3yrs)? i'm so clueless
You do it with the engine switched off. No need to warm the engine up.
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"I live my life a quarter mile at a time. for those 18 seconds or more I'm free"
Originally posted by cuseC08 can't you just dissconnect the negative battery terminal for like 30 seconds? that will reset the ecu too. If you have i/e do you think the gains will go down after a while b/c of obdll?
Sure you can do that....But pulling the fuse is a lot easier.
Remember, about once a week and you'll keep those gains....
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"I live my life a quarter mile at a time. for those 18 seconds or more I'm free"
You're welcome BTW you'd be amazed at the amount of info to be found via the search funtion at the top of the page. Take a look when you can.
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actually, i just went through a LOT of posts, and there were a lot of different answers to be found..so i'm just going to take your advice on the matter.
thats pretty silly resetting the ECU every week how long will i haft to do this until it adjust 2 the new parts, or will i haft to do it all the time in that case it becomes useless getting the parts..
First, I'd like to remind everyone of the SEARCH function at the top.
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Originally posted by djc Q. How much will the OBDII take things back to stock? If you had I/H/E/V-AFC and start off @ 170 whp, will it really drop dramatically over time?
Depends on what you mean by dramatically. Will it undo the mod completely? No. But on a motor where an i/h/e *might* get you 10-15HP, losing half of that (which I think is realistic) is a lot.
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Q. I've heard of OBDI swaps, is it expensive? Do-it-Yourself-able?
Not to be a dick, but if you're asking, you probably should let someone else handle it. Do a search on "OBD1 swap" or "conversion" and you should find a recipe for all that's needed. It's more than just the computer, and will probably run $300-$500 depending on how you do it. Plus, it still doesn't make things "right," which is fixing the a/f maps. To get the most out of a mod you should fix the fuel mapping via a reprogrammed ECU or a V-AFC.
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'cause I don't wanna watse money on mods just to have my ECU pull things back to stock.
I wouldn't call it a waste... though I understand the sentiment. If you do anything serious you might consider the OBD2 "workaround" that's in the NTPOG Mods section. It does the reset for you every time, and allows you to bypass your EGR and install a test pipe, which should be worth 5+ horses in itself.
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