O2 sensor simulator - Honda Prelude Forum

MmKilla · 07-06-2008, 08:52 PM

Hi. I'm Brad and i'm new to this prelude website, which i can't even begin to tell ya how awesome this is to be able to come to a website that has so much info on my car, cause i don't know too much about honda's in general but i do need to know a lot about my car. The question i have is that i have a 97 Prelude SH and i just eliminated the Catalytic converter with a resonated test pipe, and yes i threw the CEL for Catalytic converter below threshold. Now i know that i need an O2 sensor simulator, but i don't know what kind or type to get. I have done a bit of research on them, but all i have found is universal, single output, and dual output. I need the simulator for the secondary o2 sensor, i'm just wondering if anyone could help me on which one is the right one to have, and or what is the best brand to get, so that i don't have to deal with this CEL, because it makes my gas mileage terrible, and the car kinda putters at idle, but when the light is off it runs excellent, so if anyone knows about this i would appreciate it a lot if you could help me out, Thanks!

boymeetsfence · 07-06-2008, 09:20 PM

try searching spark plug fouler homebrew. Cheaper and easier than a simulator. Running the foulers on my secondary with a high flow and the CEL went away

slukepunk · 08-28-2009, 07:42 AM

I wanted to bring this back and discuss my experience with O2 simulator.

I did a lot of research on the possibilities of tricking your ECU, I was throwing a 67 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) so I needed to run a simulator for the secondary O2 sensors (Money plays a role). Very advised not to do this for the primary!

I did my searching and came across this website:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oxy...sor_simulator/

This circuit is a astable multivibrator, it basically oscillates back and forth between different voltages that you can set.

In the prelude service manual, the secondary o2 sensor sends a signal that switches above 0.6V and below 0.4V.

In the attached website the circuit is designed to oscillate between 0.9V and 0.1V with roughly a 50% duty cycle (high and low for the same amount of time), the time on and off is ~3s for each individually.

0.9V and 0.1V is with in the operating ranges, correct? So I built this circuit with some modifications to support stability of circuit (circuit operates fine without my tweaks), total cost: $1.20 ( I got components for free at college just payed for the circuit board), this beats the heck out of $40 for one bought online.

I installed this circuit inside the car underneath the ECU,

Connections:

Ground - ECM Connetor A (32P) #10 BLK PG1(Power Ground)
Power source (12 - 15V) - ECM Connetor A (32P) #11 YEL/BLK IGP1(Power source) (Key in ON position - Battery Voltage, Key OFF position - 0V)
Out/Signal - ECM Connetor D (16P) #14 WHT/RED SHO2S(Sensor 2)

*ground and power is spliced into the BLK and YEL/BLK wires ( They are still connected to the ecu)
*out signal is soldered to the WHT/RED wire and is cut/disconnected from the ECU.

Solder these wires in!
I initially just wrapped these wires for testing and threw another CEL for slow sensor response due to bad connection.

Outcome: I have it currently installed, passed a NYS car inspection, currently running on ~1000 miles with no CEL.

Plans: Throw a test pipe on and should not throw a CEL

I will keep updated of any major problems or tweaks.
Ask questions if interested in any processes I did, I am willing display any pictures also.

slukepunk · 03-24-2011, 01:08 PM

Update

I still have this on the lude since the last post, never had a CEL come on for the secondary O2 sensor. Roughly 30K miles and still going.

stevej37 · 03-27-2011, 05:54 PM

Bought my O2 sensor simulator on ebay...was cheap and easy to install. Have had it for over 6 years and no cel's with cat bypass installed.

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