I have been searching for an answer for a while so if there is a thread that addresses this please point me in the right direction.
my problem: when the car is cold (below roughly 32F) it will not start. It will turn over but not start. It WILL soak the plugs in gas and it WILL start when it is warm. It runs great once started. It will often start and act like it is missing on one cylinder and throw a code like "#3 cylinder misfire".
things I have tried: new cap (OEM), plugs (NGK), wires (NGK), rotor (OEM) and coil (OEM). Car has a new timing belt, H2O pump and accessory belts.
I have not tried a new battery (although this one is only a couple of years old). I have not cleaned the EGR. I have not replaced the fuel filter.
Only 93 octane gas and M1 5-30 syn oil. 50,000 miles. 23 mpg in mixed heavy-footed driving.
this is a 2000 Type SH - not on the ignition switch recall list.
i looked through the manual tonight and I found some trouble shooting tips on figuring out if it might be the main relay. Are main relay issues common in 5th gens? I know there have been issues with older accords...
i had this problem also, was a lose terminal connection on the positive side of the battery, yank the stuff off, clean the terminals put some new connectors and maybe new bolt on, tighten her up and go from there. I also used some terminal connection cleaner from autozone.
A previous time something like this happened was my ignition box itself, had to replace and sent it off for repair replacement so id have a spare lying around
have you tried to test the engine temp sensor? If the temp sensor that the ecu uses to determine engine temp is bad, it will flood the **** out of your car and will either A, not start, or B, run like crap till warm.
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2008 - Nissan Titan LE - Tow / snapper holder
1998 - Nordic mist base - 5 speed swapped "daily beater" type S intake and K&N filter, koyo aluminum radiator
1986 - Mazda RX7 widebody - L92 500hp/550tq "race car"
1983 - Porsche 944 - "weekend / fun car" Weltmeister bushings, #220lb Weltmeister springs, Bilstein HD's F+R, '86 951 front and rear sways, stainless brake lines, Odyssey lightweight battery, low temp fan switch, Schnell SSK, sport seats //future LS1 swap//
I tested all of the components that contribute to the spark and determined that it was not an issue with getting the spark into the cylinders.
Therefore, I next tackled the fuel delivery system. Starting with the cheapest thing first, I started reading about the Fuel Pressure Regulator. I found a thread where a guy found that when his FPR was faulty (and he too was flooding his engine) that if he would turn the key in the ignition to the "run" position without starting the car, allowing for the fuel pump to pressurize the system, and then turn the key back to the "off" position and then waiting ten seconds to start the car that it would not flood. I have been using this technique and it is working. I ordered a new FPR. After I install it, I will send an update.
well, after a few more weeks of occasionally not starting I found the real problem. Not sure how this happened with only 52,000 miles but I blew my head gasket.
One cylinder's plug would not fire because the residue from the coolant kept it from doing so. I guess that when I would go to start it up, the misfire would cause the engine to stumble and die and in the process of dying the other plugs would become soaked in fuel. Luckily it never overheated so I don't think that the head will have to be milled but my mechanic is replacing the head gasket for $800. It doesn't feel like that is a rip off but let me know if it is.
I had been slowly losing coolant lately and it wasn't on the floor of the garage and I had been smelling that sweet smell coming from the tail pipe. I was in denial though because my compression numbers were 200-205 across the board and I had tried the hydrocarbon test with negative results. Probably a leak down test would have let me know but I did not have the proper tools (those gauges).
total cost = $850. Luckily because I never let the car overheat the head did not have to be milled (that would have cost another $100).
I am in the process of selling the prelude too. As much as I love this car, I recently bought a 1996 DSM with only 69,000 miles. I guess I am going back to turbos again. (this will be my 12th car in as many years - I think I have a problem, well my wife thinks I have a problem - I just get that itch to get a new car every spring).
thanks for all of the advice, I'm sure I will be back again someday. Of all of the forums I have joined for car advice, this one has certainly been the best.
Hey man i just finished having the same problem with my 98 prelude SH. It has all the same symptoms and nobody could tell me what it was. I spent 300 dollars on bull***t. Until finally i got the help from people from my post. The problem was that i was not running 91 grade gas on my Lude. i was being a cheap bastard and it ended biting me in the rear. Once i started running 91 it turns on perfeclty. Are you running with 91 octane GAs?
i run 87 octane with no problems...just a hint of advice to all you guys...most gas stations say 91 or 93 octane but all it is, is 87 octane...its illegal but they do it...they just pump it out of the 87 octane container...how they can get away with it is beyond me...so ive just been running 87 with no problems no loss of performance either...
who told you that? That is very illegal and a station could lose its license for doing that. Not worth the 20cents or so per gallon profit...
my fiances step father works for some gas companies down in south carolina and he told me about it...he said theve been doing it since gas hit 3.00 a gallon..
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