noobluder

so my prelude threw a CEL and didn't want to idle so i ran a scanner on it and it said knock sensor so i got one and long story short im not going to take the I/M off to change it, gonna take it to honda they said like $140 to do it but before i make any more stupid moves i had one question do you guys think the knock sensor would cause it to not idle once its warmed up cause its fine when its cold idles fine runs fine im about to clean the IAC valve it seems like its not in limp mode i ran it up on vtec and it seemed fine just no idle after it warms up the idle has always been low when its warm (800ish) but after the CEL it wont idle at all

P.S. i unplugged the batt for a day or so to clear the code

minilogoguy18

The knock sensor shouldn't bother the idle but fix it anyway to get 1 problem out of the way so you can properly diagnose the next.

Oh, and why the hell are you taking the IM off to change the knock sensor? You just go from the bottom, if you take the IM off then you'll be buying a new gasket and if you leave even the smallest amount of the old gasket left you'll have a vacuum leak and more problems.

Just drop the ATTS unit instead since you wont have to replace any gaskets, never changed one on an SH, if you have the right sized socket and extension it could be possible to change without taking anything out.

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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission

noobluder

thats what i thought but since it died at the exact same time the CEL came on i just assumed.

i looked on here and i looked when i had it on the rack and you cant see anything, i mean sure if your arm is a total of 1inch round you might be able to get to the oil filter

but if the CEL is off and its not in limp mode should i still bother with the knock sensor?, i mean i know i should but still gotta ask. cheers