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Old 02-21-2003, 08:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Nightmare with the DAM check engine LIGHT

there was an leakage on the aftermarket header gasket... 2 weeks ago, drove the car no problem except the noise..

NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

then last week i installed my apexi n1 cat backk and the dam check engine light came on i was like wtf??

i tried everything ( I THINK I TRIED EVERYTHING)

1.) discconect the neg terminal of the battery for 10 min, then plug it turn the car on and BOOM CHeck engine light comes on

2.) disconnected the neg and pos terminal and touched them together start the CHeck engine light still comes on

3.) REMOVED MY HEADER put stock header back on
dissconnect the neg terminal turn on the headlights plug the neg terminal STILL THE DAM CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON

i have check the o2 sensor is plugged in right, all the bolts and everything is secured and tight

BUT THE DAMMM THING IS STILL ON

i am thinking about opening my gauge cluster and removing the damn check engine bulb

SO FURSTRATED RIGHT NOW





help
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Old 02-21-2003, 08:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Before you go to that extreme, find out the code of the CEL. If it is something related, you will find out. My guess is that you may have damaged the o2 sensor and it is reading slowly or not at all, as they are very sensitive.
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Old 02-21-2003, 08:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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other thing i forgot to mention was that the shop who installed my exhaust he accdentally strip and broke the bolt of

so he took the whole cat apart and rewelded the bolt

u think i just need a new cat?

and the cel thing what do u mean by that where can i get the code reader and all that?
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Old 02-21-2003, 08:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by trulegend
and the cel thing what do u mean by that where can i get the code reader and all that?
Let this be a lesson: the first thing you do when you get a CEL is capture the code and see what the ecu is trying to tell you. Here is a link that will help you out, bro: http://www.hondaprelude.to/main_checkengine.html
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Old 02-21-2003, 08:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well one of two things happened.

1. Your O2 sensor was damaged and thats why the code's still there.

2. With the leak it caused the light to come on and it is saved in the memory untill it is cleared. It must be cleared by a mechanic with a scan tool.

There are 2 types of codes one's that are stored in the memory till cleared and intermitent codes.

If it is stored in the memory the only way to turn it off is to have a mechanic clear it.

If it is an intermitent code (which it doesn't sound like it is) If after so many ignition cycles it will clear itself. It sounds like you have a stored code so your best bet is to take it to a certified ASE mechanic and pay them to clear it.
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Old 02-21-2003, 09:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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why don't you goto honda and let them check it out? about the check engine code?

I reved my engine while on nuetral after i got my exhaust, on my 98 lude, and my check light came on. It turned out that too much reving just cause the O2 sensor to go off...

that's my story.

something about emissions or something or other...
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Old 02-21-2003, 10:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally posted by screamer5300
why don't you goto honda and let them check it out? about the check engine code?

I reved my engine while on nuetral after i got my exhaust, on my 98 lude, and my check light came on. It turned out that too much reving just cause the O2 sensor to go off...

that's my story.

something about emissions or something or other...

honda service in sacramento county is the biggest NUT LICKING SONS OF BIT CH ES there

i have a 01 sh with 14k miles, i called them they said they will not touch my car if its been modfied..

so i said

i am most likely take it to the certified mechanic to see what the hell is up

fuk in hell dude
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Old 02-21-2003, 10:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by j_t_heilbrun
Well one of two things happened.

1. Your O2 sensor was damaged and thats why the code's still there.

2. With the leak it caused the light to come on and it is saved in the memory untill it is cleared. It must be cleared by a mechanic with a scan tool.

There are 2 types of codes one's that are stored in the memory till cleared and intermitent codes.

If it is stored in the memory the only way to turn it off is to have a mechanic clear it.

If it is an intermitent code (which it doesn't sound like it is) If after so many ignition cycles it will clear itself. It sounds like you have a stored code so your best bet is to take it to a certified ASE mechanic and pay them to clear it.
1.You are right about the 02 sensor,mine is bad,scanner says it's opening slowly,so it's still good just opens slow,but still gives check engine light sometimes..
2.You are right that it has to be cleared by a mechanic,but the problem has to be solved first before you can clear the light,or it's gonna keep coming back on.
3. Trulegend, take it easy d00d,would u rather something be seriously wrong and u not have a cel and your car breaks for good,i know the feeling,mine comes on then goes off,once i fix the 02 sensor it will stop,i am sure it sonds like the 02 sensor,i got the N1 and it's all bolt on,really nothing can be damaged,but ur Cat. is another story,have it checked by a mechanic..
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Old 02-21-2003, 11:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by trulegend



honda service in sacramento county is the biggest NUT LICKING SONS OF BIT CH ES there

i have a 01 sh with 14k miles, i called them they said they will not touch my car if its been modfied..

so i said

i am most likely take it to the certified mechanic to see what the hell is up

fuk in hell dude
Did you even bother checking the link I posted??? You can get the code from the ecu yourself and know exactly what the problem is. The CEL is not some annoying light that needs to be made to go away whenever it comes on. It is an indicator light that activates when the ecu is trying to tell you something. It is a troubleshooting tool.

The CEL does not need to be cleared from memory by a mechanic. Anyone can clear the memory by pulling the 7.5A fuse in the fusebox under the hood. However, if you have not found a solution to the problem that caused the code in the first place, then the CEL will return.

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There are 2 types of codes one's that are stored in the memory till cleared and intermitent codes.
Incorrect. Whenever there is a problem that causes the ecu to trip a CEL, the corresponding code is saved in memory. An intermitent problem is one which causes the ecu to activate the CEL and then store the trouble code in memory, but later when the car is shut down and the ecu reset, the problem does not return. Example of an intermitent problem: my primary O2 sensor may be going bad (I've been running pig rich of late, gotta love boost) because on occasion at startup it is not sending a proper voltage output to the ecu, which causes the CEL to come on. When I check the code (easy for me, I have a datalogger, which is not needed to do this, but it makes things a lot easier), sure enough, it is the corresponding O2 sensor code. Shut down the car, reset, restart, it does not return until perhaps a week or two later. Thus, the problem is intermitent.
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Old 02-22-2003, 04:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you don't want to check the code yourself, take it to Autozone or someplace similar, they'll do it for free. I've been having trouble with the crank position sensor on my van, replaced it, still engine code The weather here makes it miserable to work on cars, so I'm gonna leave it till it gets better.
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Old 02-22-2003, 10:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i hardly ever get engine codes anymore. matter of fact with my mods, i still haven't gotten an engine code yet.

man, take care of your cars j/k
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Old 02-22-2003, 11:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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There are codes that if it senses it once and throws the light, then it doesn't appear again, after so many ignition cycles it will clear it.

Autozone can give you a general idea of what the problem is (usually 3-4 different things) but more than likely you will spend more just buying parts to fix those things than taking it to a mechanic.

And I know it has to be fixed before you clear it, but if he just had an exhaust leak that caused an incorrect reading on the O2 he has since fixed it and just needs the code cleared.

Either way just take it to a mechanic and get it done right.
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