Next step after i/e/h/p/v-afc - Honda Prelude Forum

TranceAZN · 07-30-2002, 10:03 AM

What would you recommend doing after aem cai, mugen exhaust, mugen headers, aem pulleys and apexi v-afc ?
Any suggestions ?

N1specR · 07-30-2002, 10:06 AM

raise compression, type S or JUN cams and lotsa dyno time!

- N1

Two-Five Boy · 07-30-2002, 10:08 AM

Which way do u want to go? NA or FI?

I would suggest a hi-flow cat for starter, even though I never believed that it would gain too much.

If NA(which seems like a good path w/ur existing mods), I would go for stage II cams from Crower. Further possibilities include higher compression pistons >10.0CR and or a thinner head gasket.

pearl type sh · 07-30-2002, 10:23 AM

go all motor get jun cams advance the intake 3 and retard the exhaust 1. best setting. 14 hp right there.

but they cost allot and dynoing it is the only way to go.

NtPReLuDe · 07-30-2002, 10:31 AM

itr throttle body port matched to your intake manifold...

dohcpower v2.0 · 07-30-2002, 10:35 AM

skunk2 stage II cams
skunk2 valvetrain w/ retainers
skunk2 cam gears
type-s pistons
mild port & polish
then wait for the skunk2 single stage manifold to come out, and match a type-r TB on that.

Then maybe some happy gas..

Dunno though.. cams might be a little to aggressive.

Greek Lude · 07-30-2002, 10:37 AM

I was recently in your shoes. i continued with a P&P of the TB with IM port matching and slapped on the Hondata gasket. Then I needed to continue with my mods spree. Yanked out the stock clutch and flywheel for the ACT HDSS and 8.5lbs Fidanza flywheel. And While I was at it put on Energy Supension mounts. The mounts are awsome. No more wheel hop and there is more power to the ground now.

Prelude1897 · 07-30-2002, 10:46 AM

-Port and Polish
-Fuel Rail
-Fuel Regulator
-Ignition
-Plug wires
-Clutch/Flywheel whenever your stock one goes out
-Cam gears
-NOS

Greek Lude · 07-30-2002, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Prelude1897
-Port and Polish
-Fuel Rail
-Fuel Regulator
-Ignition
-Plug wires
-Clutch/Flywheel whenever your stock one goes out
-Cam gears
-NOS

-Port and Polish:
Do you mean the entire head? Not worth yanking it off unless you go all out with a head package.

-Fuel Rail:
Won't help with his mods. He doesn't need more fuel. he needs less and to lean out.

-Fuel Regulator:
Same as above.

-Ignition:
Only help FI

-Plug wires
Stock is the best

-Clutch/Flywheel whenever your stock one goes out:
Agree with you on this one. But I couldn't wait. Also slap on the motor mounts at the same time cause thats only when you can do them.

-Cam gears:
With stock cams? Pointless. With full head package? Yes

-NOS:
No commet.

Ludecrs · 07-30-2002, 12:24 PM

Greek Lude- Hey, regarding the engine mounts. Can you give me a little background? Cause I'm having to reinstall my clutch so this might be a good time to put them on. What brand do you recommend? What kind of side effects? I heard you get a pretty hard idle. Also, where would you buy them and for how much? Does it hurt engine life? Just wanting to get a little more background. I haven't researched this yet, but now you've got my attention!

97blacklude · 07-30-2002, 12:26 PM

how bout hondata gasket, s2000 temp and switch, cams, and cam gears

doe · 07-30-2002, 12:36 PM

PAY OFF CREDIT CARD BILLS

Greek Lude · 07-30-2002, 01:10 PM

It all depends on what kind of a ride you want. Just so you know I love that really tight feel. I'f got my shocks set to full stiff and slammed, 320 mm steering wheel, all the strut and sway bars and the list goes on. As you can see I'm a pure performance guy. I don't give a rats a>> about looks. I bought the lude cause I was happy with the way it came from the factory. I just did some minor cosmetic changes thats all.

So about the mounts. That falls in the TIGHT category. I love them. The power lost to the motor rotation is now regained and planted to the ground. The car is much more agressive off the line. The only drawback for the "Luxury Types" is that at idle there is a little more vibrassion. Personally I love it. It gives that racey feeling. But if your one of those types that ride softness means alot too you then the mounts are not for you.

I put in the Energy Suspention mounts. They have an aplication for our cars. Very cheep. Only like 40 USD. The problem is with the labour. The trany must come off to get them on. So when you do your clutch/flywheel do these at the same time. No extra costs should be added in labour if doing clutch/flywheel combo. If they do charge you there ripping you off. Tell them not to mount them and do it yourself while the bracing is on the ground.

AccordSleeper · 07-30-2002, 01:17 PM

I would go with Hondata IM gasket, cams, cam gears, and some dyno time.

DOHCVTEC190 · 07-30-2002, 01:24 PM

oops didnt read the end

Greek Lude · 07-30-2002, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DOHCVTEC190
oops didnt read the end

DOHCVTEC190 · 07-30-2002, 01:29 PM

I made a post askinga bout the motor mounts...then i read the end and someone already asked what I was asking.

bkw97lude · 07-30-2002, 01:31 PM

Get a clutch/flywheel and then go with an NX kit (50 shot) You should be low 14's or high 13's and beat a lot of cars.

Vamz · 07-30-2002, 03:31 PM

clutch, flywheel, LSD, shocks and springs/coilovers, STB bars, anti-sway bars, polyurethane bushings, motor mounts

Bluelude28 · 07-30-2002, 03:56 PM

So what's the final word on the Skunk2 cams? How do they perform compared to the Crower's? I've heard some complaints about the Skunks, so which is the better buy?