Just picked up my 1st Honda, 2000 Prelude type SH 5 speed red/black. My car has allot of miles on it, one owner 200k miles mostly from highway commute 65 miles a day. Any way so far I love the car it is pretty quick and handles good.
Last timing belt done was 93k ago, how soon do you think I should do it? is there a way to check the conditon of the belt without taking out too much stuff?
Car is currently bone stock not even one mod on it. I want to change that a bit, it is my DD so I dont want to mess with it too much, what are some proven mods that you can do without sacraficing reliability/driveabilty? e.g. intake exhaust? how are those cheap $50-70 ebay cold air intakes? and want a quiet exhaust with no rasp, deep mellow tone is what I want.
any benefit from a s2000 intake manifold, tb? is it a easy swap?
car is burning 1.5 quart of oil between oil changes is there any product like lucas or anything u can add to stop/slow down the burning? auto-rx a good idea? also is it a good idea to switch to castrol 5w-30 synthetic?
My toy car other car is a 2004 GTO 6speed and I have modded that quite a bit, cai, exhaust, long tubes, etc...
Welcome, i just got my SH 2 months ago :P. To check the timing belt, you will have to take off the valve cover (not too difficult...). But if 93k ago you're due for one. While your in there, may as well do all seals (cam seals, front balance shaft, front main) new water pump, and throw away that auto tensioner if its not already been tossed, swap on the manual tensioner (few writeups on here, its pretty easy to do if you've already got stuff off to do the timing belt)
As for CAI's, i've been reading that for the most part they dont give any noticeable gain over stock. Though no noticeable loss either...so up to you i guess (maybe Kronn will come slam my nooblet advice and tell you better :P)
Also Intake manifold is not so easily changeable on the SH, i think because you need to go obd1 and thats a no-no for the SH b/c you'll lose ATTS.
The timing belt should be done every 90k miles! You really need to get that done. By this point, checking it's condition is pointless, even if it would be accurate(which it wouldn't).
Replace your t-belt ASAP.
Mods? Intakes are pathetic, useless wastes of money. They add close to nothing in power(~1hp), and usually cost you money. In my opinion, paying money for something that has been dyno proven to not add sh!t is.................stupid.
If you want a bolt-on that adds power to the H22, you are going to have to spend some money.
Exhaust systems are somewhat similar. They don't really add much hp.
The only reason why most people put an intake or exhaust on a prelude is to make it sound cool.
You can get a header for it, but the only headers that add power cost at least $500-600, and that's used. If you want them new, they'll be $1k-1.2k. And they really only reach their potential after a full professional tune....which you will need a good ecu for.....(lots of money).
S2k Im....I don't know much about that. The TB's are popular swaps, but just like almost everything else with this motor, they don't add any noticeable gain until you professionally tune. If you just slap it on, there will be nothing.
About your oil burning, that sounds normal. H22's burn oil. They did it from the factory brand new. No additive will fix that. Many of those additives are simply oil thickeners(from what I've learned), so they may make a difference, but for the wrong reasons.
Switching to full synth is up to you. If you want to spend the money of replacing all of that oil every interval, go ahead. Not to mention the seals on your motor are old and tired, so they may start to leak more. In other words, it'll be expensive, and is up to you. If I were you, I'd invest in better filters, before I invest in different oil that may make you life harder.
Your other car is going to make this car not fun......
For the oil burning, I've switched to 10W-40 (sometimes the High Mileage version if it's available) and have had good results.
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Originally Posted by gatewayjoe
ya the bolt got stuck and broke off he said it crossed thred and thays why they got a replacement engine so is there a why to fis it are do i need a new crank
thanks guys, I will just remove the resonator to listen to that motor spin to 7krpm sound great even bone stock. I have a filter left over from my old cobra so I may fab up a home depot pcv pipe and the filter somehow.
The GTO is a blast however the clutch on the lude and the 4 banger is great for city driving.
if I keep up with it how many more miles do u think I can get out of a 200k mile h22 previous owner was older and did not beat on it much, so he says and gave me tons of oil change reciepts and other work done. Got the intake hot tanked 20k ago due to sludge build up and carbon it spins fast to 5k like before u know it. He also did a egr cleaning from the recipts he gave me.
I will take it to a shop for the t belt I dont want to mess with the valvetrain.
You can get a header for it, but the only headers that add power cost at least $500-600, and that's used. If you want them new, they'll be $1k-1.2k. And they really only reach their potential after a full professional tune....which you will need a good ecu for.....(lots of money).
I hate to disagree with pIERCE, but it happens from time to time. You can pick up a good new header for a lot less than that used price. That is, if you feel a 15whp increase is good. Furthermore, OP has an SH. That means for tuning he is limited to piggybacks.
So OP, what you want to do to make more power is this:
1. Purchase the header from my groupbuy.
2. Purchase a bigger exhaust system.
3. Purchase an Apexi VAFC or VAFC-II.
4. Install everything.
5. Dyno-tune it.
Also, the S2K TB will swap over, but not the intake manifold. It seemed to add more power. Someone did it over on H-T and PP.
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
OP, you might also look into swapping the clutch. Some people hold out until the clutch is completely toast, but I think that's crazy. Preventative maintenance is better than emergency maintenance.
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1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - totaled on 3/29/12
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F - sold
Kronn is right! My first car was an 88 civic hatchback and on the way back from a trip to the store the clutch decided to go out, leaving me stuck a stop sign right around the corner from my house. I got lucky, with the aid of my brother we pushed it back to the house and after that I was without a car for two weeks.
Right after I bought my 240sx, I dropped the tranny, pulled the clutch (which looked like it had gone through hell) and put in an Spec Stage 1 clutch.
With Preventative maintenance comes peace of mind.
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