llevity

A couple of days ago, I noticed my clutch was SIGNIFICANTLY lower in its engagement point. I knew something was wrong, but ignored it. Two days later, it got even lower, to the point where it would not disengage the clutch at all, and I could not put the car into any gear while it was cranked and idling.

My fluid was full, the slave cylinder wasn't leaking, and there was just a tiny bit of something around the master cylinder. I figured it for lubrication of the pushrod. So, I figured something in the clutch had broken. I had bought an ACT disk and PP along with a fidanza flywheel 8 months back that I was itching to put in, so I had it towed to the shop for a clutch install.

Picked it up today, and everything is great. The guy said he had to adjust the pedal somewhat, but it worked. I drove it home fine, enjoying the new clutch and flywheel (love this flywheel, btw).

Went to go for another spin, and the problems started. I get a few blocks away, and the car doesn't want to come out of gear with the clutch depressed. I gently pull more firmly, and it comes out, but then refuses to go into gear again. Double clutching helped me get it back into gear, and back to the house. THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM RETURNED.

Thankfully, I had a clutch master cyllinder sitting on the shelf from when my slave cylinder sprung a leak about 6 months ago and I had bought the master and slave. I figured that despite the fact that it wasn't leaking, it might have an internal seal gone bad. I installed the master, bled the crap out of it, and the problem still hasn't gone away. The funny thing is, when I have the clutch pedal to the floor, I hear a rattling that goes away when I release it.

Could this problem be caused be air still in the lines? I'm fairly sure there's still some air in there...how much would it take to cause this problem? It's late, cold outside, and most importantly, my poor clutch pumper has had enough and went inside. Every second or third pump, hold, open bleeder, close bleeder, release, pump clutch cycle results in a few bubbles. Also, what is that rattling sound I get when the engine is running and clutch depressed? Is that the clutch only being partially disconnected from the flywheel and rattling about?

Finally, do I have to do any pedal adjustments? I don't know what the mechanic did...he said it was engaging too low, so I guess he raised the engagement point? Does my new master cylinder offset his adjustment? I mean, I'm asking is the adjustment that he likely did done by adjusting the pushrod on the master cylinder? It seems to me like adjusting this is a bandaid approach, attacking the symptoms rather than the problem.

One other thing... do those one person hand pump vacuum bleeders work? I'm guessing not, since my searches revealed people stressing bleeding is a two person job, which is fine and dandy until your helper gives up What about speedbleeders? Do they make them in a size that fits our clutch slave cylinder? What size is it, if so?
Sorry for the length. I appreciate anyone who's read this far (and even those who haven't) offering any ideas. Ideally, I just want someone to say "Even a moderate amount of air in your lines will cause this, so just keep bleeding and it will be good as new." Of course, I want the person to say that MEAN it :P

Thanks!

 

xtal

One comment: Speed bleeders rule. A friend who works on VW's has one, his anyway works really well. Otherwise, bleeding is a PITA and usually the other half of the two man job decides she's had enough of playing with the car and leaves .

Steve

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...don't panic

ImagePree

1st: the clutch engagement is not adjustable.
2nd: when you had the clutch installed, did they put in a new release bearing? if so, was it a stock Honda one?

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世 . . . 強

llevity

Yes, new release bearing installed, part made by honda.

llevity

Update:
More bleeding, still no luck. I've been through almost another big container of brake fluid. The fluid coming out is long since clean and clear, but I'm still getting bubbles. When I changed the slave, I got bubble free fluid without even using 1 big container of fluid. I've been through one last night, and over a half of one today.

Could there possible be something wrong with the new master cylinder that's making it suck up air? The hard line is tight, the reservoir line is firmly in place on the nipple and clipped on.

I'm at wits end.

Mover

I just dropped in a HD ACT clutch (41% more clamping force).

Without bleeding the hydraulic line, I noticed that the friction point was way down near the floor as opposed to a stock clutch which was higher. The diaphram spring on the stock clutch seems to have its 'fingers' sticking out further that the ACT which would cause a shift in engagement point.

I bled the line just to make sure (you don't need a lot of new fluid.. the path from the clutch master cylinder to the slave isn't that long..). The engagement point was still low.

I got under the dash and adjusted the pushrod (ie unscrewing it further from the pedal) which helped the problem.

I just have to watch for any leaks now. When you bleed the line, you remove any 'crud' that help the seals seal if you know what I mean.