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Old 04-19-2010, 01:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Making my own Endlinks Front and Rear

Just ordered 6 of these puppies:
Studded rod ends with nylon races. Found them on my MSC big book CD. 50* of articulation.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...PMPXNO=5587079

I only needed the end links the rest of the hardware I can get from work. Rod ends are accounted for, they keep inventory on those. Nuts and bolts and threaded rod are not. That stuff is left on racks outside of the stock room.

Here's my Question. Can anyone give me a fairly accurate center to center measurement for the rear end link?

The front link is 4" from center of "ball" to tip of stud. But I forgot to measure the rear when I was under the car putting my springs on. I don't need super accurate because I can just rotate the endlinks until the required length is set. I just need a ballpark number so I know what length to cut the threaded rod.

I'm driving around right now with no front swaybar because I couldn't get the stock endlinks the hell off of it. It handles like crap with no front bar. Even with 1.5" drop and harder spring rates. I took the stock bar off. I got the nuts to turn like 2 turns before they seized up, and then the hole for the allen key stripped out. After that I didn't even try the rear. Building my own heavy Duty end links is exponentially cheaper than even buying OE replacements, much less the progress ones that fall the hell apart. Not to mention stock OE replacements will just bend with stiffer sway bars anyway.

Parts Used:
6 Studded Female Rod ends. Nylon races. 3/8-24 Thread on stud and inside rod end.

For Front Set:
2 Studded rod ends, 2 Pieces of 3/8-24 Threaded rod 3-7/16" long, 8 Standard 3/8-24 Nuts, 4 3/8-24 Jam Nuts, 6 3/8" Lock washers 4 3/8" Flat washers (I might replace these with oil impregnated thrust bearings/thrust bushings [Essentially a brass flat washer])
For Rear set:
4 Studded rod ends, 2 Pieces of 3/8-24 Threaded rod cut 5-1/2" long, 8 3/8" Lock washers, 8 3/8-24 Standard Nuts, 2 Pieces of 3/8" ID 9/16 OD Aluminum tube Cut 2.5" long (to act as a spacer), 8 3/8" Flat washers (again I might replace these with oil impregnated thrust bearings).

The Length of the rear End Links is Subject to change. Since No one could tell me the length of the stock ones I Guesstimated (hopefully on the long side). That way I can shorten them to whatever length I need.

Pictures!










Rear!




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Last edited by Seigisama; 05-01-2010 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You do not have permission to access /CGI/NNSRIT...PMPXNO=5587079 on this server.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You do not have permission to access /CGI/NNSRIT...PMPXNO=5587079 on this server.
Weird it worked last night...
MSC Google Search Results there that should work.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Still no.

Just post the part number from the web site.
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here's the part number for those having trouble: 73202160
Just do a search for that on the MSC site and it will take you right there.
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Bumped for pictures added to top post.
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Very cool. I wish I could provide the feedback you were looking for but I am only interested in seeing what you are up to. It's pretty cool, though. I definitely appreciate the info.
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I had the progress set up. The end links didn't have a chance to fall apart because the rattled and drove me crazy. So I went back to stock. Interested in hearing how the nylon joints work for you. The links themselves look great.
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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71dsp used to make custom aircraft grade endlinks (he also road races) but I remember he has delrin bushings in his.
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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71dsp used to make custom aircraft grade endlinks (he also road races) but I remember he has delrin bushings in his.
That's right! I forgot all about Billy's custom endlinks. I knew this reminded me of something.
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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That's right! I forgot all about Billy's custom endlinks. I knew this reminded me of something.
These studded rod ends weren't offered with delrin inserts. Delrin is water repellant and offers higher lubrication (effectively). However its a bit softer than nylon. I suspect that the nylon will work just dandy, and most likely far outlast the metal on metal progress end-links. Not to mention being far far cheaper. Although I suspect progress probably pays a whole $3 a piece for the rod ends they use and another $6 for the rest of the hardware, and then charges $100 a set gaining an exponentially larger profit margin.
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Bump for new pictures in top post.
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Bump for new Pictures in top post.
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Old 05-03-2010, 02:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I had the progress set up. The end links didn't have a chance to fall apart because the rattled and drove me crazy. So I went back to stock. Interested in hearing how the nylon joints work for you. The links themselves look great.
No rattles so far...
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Old 05-03-2010, 05:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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that looks sick
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Old 05-03-2010, 12:17 PM   #16 (permalink)
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All for the less than the price of one OEM end-link... Only time will tell how the hold up.
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