Time to get a multimeter, a crash course in electronics, a Helms, and spend a good amount of time checking your wiring. Or you can take it to a mechanic, but that may cost you... alot.
Then agian, there's always the option of lighting the car on fire
Nothing is really malfunctioning, besides the fact that the radio wont turn on and the abs light is comes on and off. the electrics just arent getting power. And the motor barely turns over. It takes 2 or 3 tries. Im leaning towards the battery or alternator. I need a new alternator anyway so should i find another stock h22 alternator or is there a good aftermarket brand of alternators?
Nothing is really malfunctioning, besides the fact that the radio wont turn on and the abs light is comes on and off. the electrics just arent getting power. And the motor barely turns over. It takes 2 or 3 tries. Im leaning towards the battery or alternator. I need a new alternator anyway so should i find another stock h22 alternator or is there a good aftermarket brand of alternators?
And what about these other issues? Plus the fact that you're throwing a CEL...
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilbill97
I didnt think anything of it and then finished tightening the terminal. I go to start the car and the lights are dim. I rolled down the window and the radio turned off. When i turn the lights on, the tachometer falls to 0 and stays there. The a/f ratio gauge goes from rich to lean and then shuts off. And the windows move real slow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilbill97
The radio doesnt turn on wether the car is on or not. The wondows only go down one at a time real slow. and The moon roof only goes up, it doesnt slide back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilbill97
Yea, its the same story with my chipped and oem ecu. Now if i roll both windows down at the same time it starts beeping and then the stalls out.(the beep when you turn off your car and open the door but leave the keys in the ignition)
Aret those just from a loss of power? Im not throwing a code.?
But you said this before...
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilbill97
I just jumped the Cel, it read code 20, i looked it up and it said
"Electrical Load Detector defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor"
Where is that?
i guess thats where a malfunction comes in.lol The cel isnt on, i just jumped the port because i didnt know what else to do and it flashed 2 long times and code 20 had to do with an electrical problem so i assumed it was throwing a code. Unless it always flashes twice when the cel is off and you jump it
Ah I missed the code 20. Have you checked your ELD? I'm going to bet this the reason why your car is shutting off after you start it and try to use anything electrical. It's not giving signal regulating the voltage from the alternator.
Go look at a helms manual. There's a whole section showing how to trouble shoot it. You'll still need a multimeter to do it. If you plan to do any electrical work you better learn how to use one.
edit
You didn't mention before that the car takes a couple of tries to start. Now that is sign of your battery going bad.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonik_Fury
whatever essay I just watched the new Fast and Furious so I know what I'm talking about.
Before it started in one try. Then someone stated it could be the ecu. I swapped ecu's and then it started to become difficult to start. It gets harder and harder to start every time and the windows move slower and slower evertime.
And I don't know where the eld is. Ill check my helms when I get home, its under the troubleshooting section.?
Figured it out for the most part, The battery has an "open internal cell" so it doesnt hold a charge as good, i charged it for 2 hours, everything worked again. But no i can hear a clicking next to the abs unit(the little cylinder shaped thing mounted in the corner of the fender wall and strut wall. The ticking gets louder until about 3k rpms. The "ticking" sounds like an small electrical current.
When pump the brakes the idle goes down about 2 hundred rpms to about 600 and the rises to almost 2k and the surges for about 5 minutes until its smoothes out.
its your battery man..your alternator is making your car surge cause your battery is so low...get a new battery and your problem should be solved...after that you can by my im and tb
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