Loud engine ticks...need help! - Honda Prelude Forum

xSHy · 12-10-2011, 02:55 PM

Note: I have searched all thread and none have similar problems. So forgive me if a similar thread has already exist. Thanks!

My car is a 1997 SH (just in case it matters which I think it shouldn't).

Ok, I have been using this forum for about a year now. It has been really helpful and I followed most of the DIY for most of the work I have performed on my car. As of recently, I have done my timing belt and now my engine is ticking really loud at idle and at all RPMs. It ticks at a constant rate but rate increases as RPM increases. Before I perform the timing belt, the car did not sound like this. So here was what I did before the noise came on:

1. Changed Timing Belt
2. Change front/rear balance shaft seals
3. Changed both Cam seals and the Cam plug
4. Changed Crank seal
5. Adjust valve
6. Changed Autotensioner
7. Changed Water pump
8. Changed Balance shaft belt
9. Changed valve cover gasket and grommets

These were all performed over 5 days so I did took my time. I did set everything to TDC and even check if my flywheel was on TDC when crank is on TDC too and it was. Cam gears were also at TDC.

I thought I have adjusted the valves wrong and I went back to readjust them again, but this time I took my time and double check all the valve clearance before and after I tighten each valve. The noise seems to be coming straight from the head cylinder right where the valve cover is. I have youtube some videos and double check that all my spark plugs are tighten down. Still, the sound is still there.

My car idles normally, no code, no CEL, no rough idle on start up. The ticks occur as soon as the car starts and just never go away even when engine is warm up to normal temperature. I have not done any compression test or leak test as I have no access to any of those tools.

I did upload a video since it should be more clear as to what I am trying to explain.

Here's the link:

H22 ticking...need help! - YouTube

I need serious input at this point. I do not have the time or fund to remove the engine to check for other things at this point but will be able to do in about 2 weeks. As of now, I'm just trying to narrow things down. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I know the spark wires are a little dirty, but I don't think they are the problem. I did left out the center plastic cover that was on the valve cover becuase this was recorded about 2 hours after I did a valve adjustment.

TypeT · 12-10-2011, 04:13 PM

how about distributor cap & rotor? or misplaced spark plug wires?
or then something went wrong in your timing belt job

xSHy · 12-10-2011, 04:22 PM

@ TypeT: can the distributor cap and rotor cause this noise? it doesn't seem to be coming from the dizzy, but rather straight from the cylinder head. But no, I have not checked the cap or the rotor because I didn't think it's those but I will take a look at it when I have the time to.

Before I did the 2nd valve adjustment, the sound looks like it was coming from the 4th cylinder. But after I did the 2nd adjustment, it looks like it is from the 1st or 2nd cylinder. Could a possibly defective spark plug cause this? Since I did shuffle the spark plugs when I did the valve adjustment because I took them out in order to turn the crank.

Thanks and keep the inputs coming.

TypeT · 12-10-2011, 04:37 PM

sure that you measured the valves from right point?

distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs are pretty cheap and if you havent changed them for a while.... its basic maintenance so its not pointless to change them at this point (where you try to figure this problem out - few things what you can count out)

minilogoguy18 · 12-10-2011, 04:46 PM

^That's just guesswork, "it needs parts".

First off, make sure the oil level is right as low oil will make the engine sound. Second, remove the valve cover and rotate the crank a few full rotations and make sure everything is in time every time you get to TDC. You also sure you did that valve adjustment right?

xSHy · 12-10-2011, 04:53 PM

Thanks again for the input. Yes, it was part of my plan to change the rotor, dizz cap, and wires in a few days but I didn't expect this sound to come on. Now, i'm just clueless. I'm afraid if it's something in the engine and may have to look for a new engine; hence, i don't feel like spending more money on the little things knowing i may have to swap. But I will definitely replace the spark plugs sometime this coming week when I have time.

As far as the valve adjustment go, I followed JLUDE's guide and also have the HELM's manual alongside when I adjust it. Now that I thought about it, the ticks are too loud to be from bad valve adjustment eh? or was it normal if the valves are too tight/loose to cause such a tick? Well, is it really a tick or a knock? I can't tell the difference actually so if anyone can fill me in after watching the video I have uploaded on youtube in my first post, that'll be helpful! Thanks!

@mini: I have rotated the crank quite a number of time during the timing belt replacement processes, as well as numerous times during the valve adjustment processes (2 valve adjustments so far). The arrows on cams are up while all the lines lined up (parallel with head), and while crank is on TDC (arrow on crank gear line up with the arrow on engine), as well the mark on flywheel lined up with the groove on the engine. The only thing I have 2nd doubt about was the camshaft plate...I use a torque wrench when I replaced the cam plug, but can it cause this noise if the bolts are too tight or too loose?

EDIT: just checked oil level, it's right on 2nd circle on dip stick so should be ok.
I used 5w-30 full synthetic oil this time...just in case that matters. Before the timing belt changed, I used 10w-30 full synthetic. The autozone i went to just happend to be out of 10w-30 so i grabbed the 5w-30 instead. Thanks again everyone!

zfinatic · 12-11-2011, 09:13 PM

that sounds horrible

you sure the cams were tdc when you did the tbelt or that when you did the valve adjustment that the cam was in the right position? it sounds like a valve ticking.

xSHy · 12-11-2011, 09:40 PM

Yes I'm pretty sure I was at TDC when I put the belt on. Crank lines up with the arrow mark, cam gears' arrows face up and tick marks parallel to the top of the engine head. Even flywheel's mark lines up with mark on the little opening to. For valve adjustment, I did 1,3,4,2 (arrow up, straight left, straight down, and straight right respectively). I did some research and it may be that my LMAs going bad but I'll attempt 1 more valve adjustment this week to see if it helps at all. Thanks for the inputs. Any other suggestions?

zfinatic · 12-15-2011, 02:20 PM

How can you test if lma's are going bad?

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my97lude · 12-15-2011, 10:41 PM

Hey xSHy: before getting into anything too deep or expensive... did you check your exhaust... namely the manifold gasket?

I thought for sure that I had a bad valve or tappet problem with my last prelude, adjusted everything and the darn thing was still tapping... Turned out I had a small leak from the manifold gasket. Think I paid something like 30 bucks for the gasket and spent 20 minutes to fix the problem and didn't have any ticking after that.
Same thing on my 2007 Chevy Truck and my 1993 caprice impala SS as well. The impala was actually just that the manifold bolts had somehow loosened over time. Tightened up and $0... back on the road.

my97lude · 01-02-2012, 08:36 AM

I just took a look at your video (wasn't loading last time I was on here... New Laptop)
That sounds like exhaust to me. (95% sure)
Take the manifold cover off and check the manifold gasket and the "4-2-1" gasket. (the gasket between the downpipe and manifold).
Mine sounded just like that recently. The gasket between the manifold and down pipe was TOAST. Replaced it, and now no ticking.

E-Money · 01-02-2012, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zfinatic

How can you test if lma's are going bad?

Sent from my DROID X2 using AutoGuide.Com Free

You can press down on them while doing a valve adjustment. I believe your checking with the cylinder your working on like while your adjusting the corresponding valves

E-Money · 01-02-2012, 10:37 AM

After watching the video sounds like a common case of leaving yours valves too loose. Doesn't sound like a timing belt rub and he didn't remove the exhaust to cause a leak. Always go with a tighter setting for the valves. 0.006 intake 0.007 exhaust.

my97lude · 01-02-2012, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E-Money

After watching the video sounds like a common case of leaving yours valves too loose. Doesn't sound like a timing belt rub and he didn't remove the exhaust to cause a leak. Always go with a tighter setting for the valves. 0.006 intake 0.007 exhaust.

Having not touched the exhaust, I would agree.^ Is odd that the sound is only coming from the front of the engine but not anywhere around the rear... even of the cover. (Trying to judge from the video of course...)

The exhaust on my car had been changed by the previous owner, but he didn't replace the gasket between the header and downpipe... he instead opted to put the old back in. (picture attached)
Didn't sound too bad until I blew out two sides of the gasket after tuning the car a little. Then it sounded just like that.

Of course, it is an aftermarket gasket, so I had to wait a day to get it.

Good luck!

Too_Funny · 01-11-2012, 01:51 AM

I am assuming you don't have a digital stethoscope or even a regular one. Or use the poor mans one. Which is a long screw driver with your ear press against the handle side.

Red97PreludeSH · 01-13-2012, 08:16 AM

Mine makes a similar noise, only input I can give is; check to see if your crank snout is bent, like mine. If it is, then every time the crank comes around the timing belt will try to stretch slightly and then relax slightly. This causes the auto tensioner to have to compensate, rapidly, creating a ticking noise. If that's the case with yours, then unless you want to fully rebuild your engine, you'll have to live with it.

Oh, and if you find out it's not that, or it's that and something else, let me know what the "something else" is.

lbeavisc · 03-01-2012, 05:52 PM

i know this thread may be dead, but i was wondering of the OP had fixed his problem. I am having the same problem. I had the timing belt changed and installed a new cat to pass smog, went to the smog place and after failing for egr i drove away and the cel came on and it started ticking like xSHy's. i cleaned the egr and now it has no codes, idles ok, starts ok. This is really driving me mad lol. spent about $800 on my car so far, should have just sold it and got another. Smog guy says he wont smog it ticking like that because hes afraid it might blow up or seize up durrng the test.
Any Ideas? Hope its not rod berings or a valve