^ yes peirce i knwo the preludes and h22s pretty good(aside form some small stuff i think i am quite knowledgable about them, seeing as i do all my own work). I may be an asshole, but i do know hondas pretty good.
After you pop the ball joints all around and remove the suspension fork bolt, take a socket and rubber mallet and hit the outside of the hub to push the axel spline as far back through the hub as it will go, then pull the hub off of the axel spline. The i use a large long flat head scxrewdriver to get inbetween the axel and the transmission, then gently lever it so the axel pops out. Once it is free of the trans i remove it and coat the splines in CLEAN motor oil and wrap a ziploc bag over them. One time after i did the t2w4 trans swap(sold the m2b4 to luke192 to build up the m2y4 for boost) i didnt put the axel all the way in the trans and the virgin cruise with the unicorn trans failed utterly right when i got the lude off of my driveway and into the street.(it was pricelss my gf got so mad at me as i amde her help me push it back) Turns out the spline wasnt all the way in. I had to push it back into the homeshop and break the ball joints again and the then push the axel all the way in, after that it worked great. You have to be careful though as if you push or pull to much on the axel you run the risk of ruiniing it. I have replaced axels over this twice and have since learned to be gentle. Also, like i mentioned before, i always change the trans axel seals, as if they go and you dont cacth it you can fudge up your trans pretty good due to dirt and debris getting in there.
The hardest thign i ever had to do was swap the trans without taking the engine out. I did it at a track once to compare the m2b4 to the m2y4 to the t2w4 and hell i spent the whole damn day under the car and skinned at least four knuckles on my hand. It is way easier to just removve the engine and do it on the floor. But you cant always do that. To pivot the trans in while the engine is there is a major pain, you can do it and i have multiple times but its sucks.
When removing just the trans did you drop the front cross member by unbolting the radius rods from the LCA? I can get the trans down in like 30mins-1hr that way but I have a lift. =p
Once you do it a couple of times pierce you can whip axles out in 10 mins, just be careful when removing the axle from the hub as I've seen people **** em up by hitting the end with a hammer and mushrooming the end so that the nut wont go back on. If you use a rubber mallet you'll be alright, I seem to get lucky and never have to hit it out, falls right out when lifting the hub off to the side.
T2W4 is full of win btw, almost killed the diff though when tuning on the highway, but the diff won against the axle, had to change axle on side of road.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Wow thanks guys, just the detailed advice I was looking for. I'll be removing both the trans and engine to basically replace every seal known to man, including axle seals and thought it'd be a lot easier if I just remove them from the car together rather than working in the engine bay. Everything else seemed pretty strait forward except for the axle part...
Thanks again.
P.S.--Anything else I might want to look out for when removing both from the top?
Remove the radiator mainly and unbolt the A/C compressor from the block and just set it on the front cross member so that you don't have to evac and recharge the system. You'll just have to lift the timing side higher than the trans as the trans is partially under the frame of the car. Helps a ton to have someone to help you maneuver it out.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Lol yes i remove the lower control arm, and the radius rod. Then the trans jsut drops out. The onyl issues i have ever had doing it that way was the first time i couldnt get the second bolt out that holds the radiuS rod to the control arm. So i ended up takign them out as one peice, then breaking the bolt head off and drillign it out. I to have an engine lift and also a 3 foot hoist(its worthless though, damn princess auto and thier sneaky chines products), and the lift comes in handy but it was still a btich to angle and tip up into the engine. Even after studying the manual to see how the trans has to be manipulated, i still had isseus. The day i swapped the three trans was a ***** but well worth it. Now, if i dont have too i wont remove jsut the trans, i will take the engien otu then do it it all ont he floor jsut for sake of ease. Realistically, i can have my engine out and a clutch changed and back in in about 3-4 hours depending on hwo i feel.
Also peairce use a separater bar on the chains on the engine lift as if you dont and you have the chain bolted to the trans you can run the risk of smashing your vtec soelnoid
with the chain.
Dang you went through a bit more work all cause a radius rod bolt froze? Removal of the strut forks and axles make getting those bolts out easy, also the impact gun and 17mm swivel socket too. =p
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Yes, i used the impact and stilll couldnt get it to budge so rather than continue trying. For the record i had the suspension fork out and all the suspension stuff unbuttoned and the axel already out. I was worried so i just pulled it out and did what i knew would work. Ultimetly in the end it worked out great as it came out without damage and now the bolts move freely in and out. I also changed the radius rod bushing as the other one was so squezzed it was flat. When i compared it to the new on it was only half the size. I then changed the otherside also, just for peace of mind. Also as i forgt to mention it, i bought two new bolts from the stealership at a price of 9.21 canuck bucks each.
Last edited by bouckarooo; 04-15-2011 at 07:35 PM.
Heh, lucky me I a friend at work has a box full of those self locking nuts that are used on multiple suspension parts that they recommend replacing like at the ends of the radius rods.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Yes i wish i had access to free or rgeatly reduced in oprice honda parts ona whim, it wold make life so much easier. Hell i had to wait almost a week for those bolts to come in.
Wow buckaroo, your seriously my idol. I wish i could pull my engine out to replace all my seals and gaskets and stuff. Just for the sake of maintenence. Cause i have another car i can daily drive to do this, but no knowlege and definatly no hoist. Is there a DIY to pulling a H22 out properly and back in step by step anywhere on the web? I would love to just read for days..
^Just go to spoonertuner(dot)com and get the manual, tells you in there step by step. It's a lot easier than you think, but kinda unnecessary to do for just seals even though some are easier with the engine out but the amount of time it takes is probably more by removing the engine.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
lol yes the manual is the best place to get DIY engine removal. I think when i put the h23 vtec into the car i will do full write up on it as there is jsut to little "actual fact" out there on doing that swap.
lol yes the manual is the best place to get DIY engine removal. I think when i put the h23 vtec into the car i will do full write up on it as there is jsut to little "actual fact" out there on doing that swap.
Please do bro, i would love an actual write up DIY on removal and taking apart/putting back together the engine for seal/gasket/cleaning/maintanence reasons. That would be so awsome! And im sure they would sticky it for years too come! Looking forward to it lol
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