bouckarooo

Ok guys, i just got done doing another swap, this one went into my 97 base, i decided to remain obd2 compliant and know that there are many questions as to what needs to be done. The following is a list of the parts i bought to ensure the engine has a nice long powerful life. This list isnt including all the parts i had to swap over but i will post those under the parts list. For all you haters out there, my swap started the first time and the engine runs like a top champ(thanks God as we swapped so many parts i got f**king dizzy). I cannot take all the credit as Jarred from DELUXX MODIFIED(of edmonton) was the mechanic who ensured my swap went according to plan, any way here is the list:

jdm h22a with m2b4 lsd tranny(complete swap)
oem timing belt
oem balance shaft belt
oem valve cover gasket
oem thermostat
oem water pump
oem auto tensioner
oem left and right axel seal
oem main seal
oem oil cooler o ring
oem spark plug seals
oem pcv valve
oem oil pan seal
msd blaster 2 coil
msd distributor cap
msd rotor
msd coil mount
oem ngk spark plugs
kn oil filter
aem fuel filter
msd ignition wires(w/dizzy clamps)
Honda tranny fluid
Eneos 5w30 oil(9 qrts, 5.6 for engine and 3.4 for the flush)
Honda power steering fluid
skunk2 cam seal
centerfiorce dual friction clutch
Machined oem flywheel
repainted valve cover
oem oil pump (for 97+)
oem egr plugs and o ring set
apexi grounding kit
skunk 2 magnetic drain plug set
oem power steering belt
innovative mounts (black with 60a bushings)
highflow catalytic converter

These are the parts we used off of the 97:

crank pulley
balanceshaft pulley
complete intake manifold
exhaust manifold
ecu
wireharness
distributor
alternator
knock sensor
oil cooler
oil pump( i provided a new pump, see above parts list)

I think there may have been more parts that we used off of the 97 but i cannot recall, if there is i will edit this post at later date. Also when i got my engine it came with a certificate that stated the vin of the car it came out of and the odo reading of that car, also the date clock on the block says it was manufactured in nov of 1995.

 

kadidle

correct me if im wrong but in order get rid of the 115 mph cut out on the jdm ecu and the jdm ecu not being able to be read by a scanner or emissions you needed to change to the USDM:
ECU
wiring harness
distributor
oil pump
crank position sensors
anything else ?

bouckarooo

uhh... yea i think you need to read my post man; i thought i went through the whole process pretty well but apparently not...

kadidle

sorry i just posted with out reading.... of course i read your post and yes you didnt explain everything that well, as in the minimal USDM parts you need to put on the JDM engine to use a USDM ECU.

bouckarooo

The parts i posted at the bottom are the minimal swap parts, that list is what i HAD to keep off of the 5th gen in order the jdm engine to work.

speckthedeck

if you dont mind me asking, about how much did this end up costing you? im planning on getting a swap and i also want to keep it obd2

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The Block 51St........

bouckarooo

Ok, i bought some parts i didnt need(like an exedy stage one clutch and a centeroforce one, the valve cover, and the some of the msd stuff) but all in all the money was well spent, here is a breakdown of the costs:

Parts:

All the parts i listed above, i bought came out to about $4000 canadien(this includes any maching i had to do.

The engine with lsd tranny and ecu (full swap) $2600 Canadien

The mechanics labour was 31 hours at an hourly rate of $70 canadien dollars for a total of $2170.Four hours of this labour were spent on installing new head lights as well.

The actual swap didnt take very long however i got the mechanic to replace all of the seals and give the engine a good once over(you dont need to do this but it is always a good idea to ensure the engine is in the best shape possible before you swap out).

Now if i add up the value of the parts i didnt use:
exedy clutch-$350
msd blaster2 coil: $40
Skunk2 cam seal: $35

Now, though i have these parts left over as spares, 4th gen oil pump, used 5th gen oil pump(i supplied a new one, you can reuse the old one but i didnt want to, i wanted my engine in 100% shape), 4th gen intake(complete) and exhuast manifolds, 4th gen crank pulley and balance shaft pulley, 4th gen knock sensor, 2 valve covers, full h22a4 engine block and head, m2y4 5 speed tranny, starter, 4th gen alternator, rhd throttle cable and mounts and actuator,4th gen wiring harness, obd1 p13 ecu, spare clutch slave cylinder(they work on both years, so keep the other as a spare to use later), 4th gen power steering pump, 4th gen distributor, 4th gen vtec solenoid, 4th gen oil cooler/oil filter mount, used 4th and 5th gen water pumps(i bought a new one to put on), 4th and 5th gen thermostats(you can reuse your bb6 one if you want to save money).

In total if you are looking to do this swap cheaply then you can save yourself the $300 oil pump, re use your old mounts($340), not do your egr plugs(i had my wholoe intake manifold dissassembled and cleaned, 2 hours labor), i didnt need to do the $45 main seals but i did(the labour was like 2 hours with the engine already out), also the ignition parts you dont need to buy as you can reuse your fith gen dizzy. If you go this route you can save yourself about $1000 of up front costs but then you are using old parts and you never know what kind of troubles you will get later down the road. Also, you can find cheaper engines and maybe buy one without the lsd tranny or no tranny at all and that could save you some money too.

I am only 430 km into the 2000km break in period( to make sure all the new seals seat correctly and to break in the clutch) but my engine runs as smooth as butter and pulls as hard as a triple crown winning horse.(and all this is under 3500 rpms too....).

In total around $9000 got my car in mint condition, i probably could have done it for around $6000 if i wanted to skimp out on the new parts maybe less if went to a lesser quality mechanic, however my mechanic Jarred is my freind so i knew by going to him and paying him(his normal rate is 100/hr, he charged me 70/hr) i would be getting the highest quality of craftsmenship i could find. The labour rates my change as like i said before i had him dissassemble much of the jdm engine to inspect it and replace all the seals. perhaps you know a good mechanic who may charge you less.

Good luck with you swap man!!

bouckarooo

Heres a bump for all the people who didnt want to use the SEARCH button.....

bump for stupidity!!!

kadidle

why did you have to use the USDM crank pulley, balance shaft pulley, and intake manifold ?

bouckarooo

Well, the usdm crank pulley/sprocket and the balance shaft one is different than the jdm obd1 engine, so in order to get everything to work in correct function(as i had to change the oil pump also<this for the cps> it was recomended by honda(alberta Honda was the dealership i consulted) to use the usdm pulleys. As for the intake manifold, well this had to do with the type of injectors that are mounted on that manifold(there is another reason also and i will go in to that in a bit). First, the injectors on the 4th gen are what is known as peak and hold injectors, which incidently are a better performing injector; the h22a4's utilize what is known as a saturated injector. Now heres the reason behind the logic of this part swap, the ecu of the h22a4 is not able to run using the peak and hold style of injector(unless you have an added ecu managment system like hondata, chrome, aem ems, and the like), by trying to use a 4th gen injector with the 5th gen ecu you will fry out your ecu as the current needed to run the peak and hold type is greater than the saturated type and the usdm ecu is only programmed to operate the lower current requirement of the saturated type; you can however use the saturated type as a direct replacement for the peak and hold type as they require less current and the ecu is capable of delivering the current amount it needs(the 4th gen ecu will send ,<lets say just to make it easy...these aren't the actual numbers, i am just using them as example to make it easier to explain> 10 amps of current to the peak and hold type, and the peak and hold type needs all 10 of these amps to operate; so then the 5th gen ecu delivers only 7 amps as the saturated style only requires 7amps; herin lies the problem, you can use the saturated on the 10 amp ecu as it will only draw a maximum of 7 amps; however once you try and use the peak and hold at 10 amps on the 7amp ecu it will fry your ecu as it is trying to draw the 10 amps of current and it cannot). The second reason i had to use the manifold is becuase the usdm ecu is obdII and therefore requires the use of the Emissions Gas Recirculation Sytem(E.G.R, i am sure you have read about cleaning these ports to clear errant CEL's), so in order to maintain the obdII on the car i had to switch the whole manifold, seeing how i needed to use the injectors also it only makes sense to do so. Also there was another reason, however this one is easy to get around, especially if you have a good freind at the local Honda dealership, there is wiring differences all through out the engine bay and it seemed as if many of the elctrical connectors were a diffrent style on the jdm engine than the usdm one, you can buy the right connector then just switch them but i found it easier to just swap the parts over;it is more reliable this way also as there is less chance of error or failure as you are not modifying the stock part to make it work(many call this kind of thing a "hackjob", however it is sometimes neccessary, but i do try and avoid it where i can if i can). I am sure you know about the oil pump issues and the dizzy issues so i will not go into them as you did not ask but they are also a neccessity to perform a correct swap.

kadidle

oh, i did not know you used an OBDI H22 thought you had a JDM 5th gen prelude motor

bouckarooo

No, this was a JDM H22a w/LSD out of 4th gen prelude.

Tubesteak101

These are the parts we used off of the 97:

crank pulley
balanceshaft pulley
complete intake manifold
exhaust manifold
ecu
wireharness
distributor
alternator
knock sensor
oil cooler
oil pump( i provided a new pump, see above parts list)

I know you need to swap the oil pump on the jdm, but did you have to swap all the other stuff? Im just trying to find out what you must swap from the h22a4 to the jdm h22a to make it work.

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