I own a 98 honda prelude type sh. First Question I know its been asked over and over but I need to know the facts. What fuel controller will work with the type sh and not throw a code. Question 2 Im planning on removing my intake manifold and cleaning it I was just wondering how long of a task it usually is and some difficulties before going into it. Thanks guys sorry about the repetative questions.
there's no need to remove your intake mani, that is one hell of a job just to clean it. do a search on seafoam on here. I'll vouch for it because I increased my gas mileage by 17%...
I'll second rayslude on the seafoam thing. unless you have a good reason to; (let a bunch of mud in, or the inside of your throttle body looks like the inside of bottle that has been on a beach for 20 years) don't take your IM off.
However, if you must take your IM off; plan on a couple day ordeal. 4-5 hours to get everything off, a couple hours to clean it up, then 24 hours to wait for your local honda dealership to get replacement gaskets for the ones you tore taking it off =D
Before you start, make sure you have an intake manifold gasket on hand, as that one CANNOT be reused; if you re-use it, it will seem to work, but over a couple of days will develop air leaks, and cause pulsing idle issues. but in my experience, as long as your carefull, all of the other gaskets (except for the main IM gasket) can be reused with a bit of trial and error.
As for fuel controllers; unless you have done some heavy work to the engine, you are honestly best staying with the stock ECU. However, if you must, do a bit of research on a VAFC, from APEXi. I ran one for 4 years with 0 issues (other than fouling my plugs to hell and back, messing with things I shouldn't have been messing with)
Thank you I have ran Seafoam and I burn oil like crazy now but I found a cleaner that will give me some happy feelings lol. Any way is the VAFC a good unit and do you have an SH because I dont want any codes.
why do you want a fuel controller? they are literally garbage. If you want some pretty blue lights in your car that's not gonna give you anymore power for $250, go for it. If you have a pretty good start on mods then I would consider Hondata or Neptune, but even then you're gonna have to have the mods to back it up and make some power.
well a my apexi vafc has about 8 wires that either tap into you ecu or route it through your vafc before it gets to you ecu.
what it allows you to do is trick your ecu to add or subtract fuel. you configure it by adjusting two graphs(one for a narrow throttle and one for wide) you can increase and decrease it depending on your needs, but if you lean it too much you will hurt your engine. the vafc adjusts in %. if you want to run a vafc then you will need to use a dyno with a wide band o2 and look ad see where you can lean it then do it again after to make sure you are not too lean. you will get more power with the leaner mixture but it is more dangerous for your engine
i agree with the previous posts i used my vafc and i blew a piston ring and now im doing a complete overhaul and getting a aem ems ecu
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>Karl<
98 Base lude, building new engine
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Well if you didnt read my first post I said something that wont throw a code in a type sh and you recomended hondata or neptune which requires an OBDI swap so if your trying to be a smart A** than just stop posting thank you for your help thus far but I do know a little bit more than you think. Im trying to figure exactly what a vafc is capable of because this unit does not send a code. There is no point in having an sh and the atts not working.
I have plenty of n/a mods but more motor is running very rich thats what I need the VAFC for I do need to lean out the mixture and I'm well aware of the wideband O2 sensor and gauge needed. I guess the question I asked was not specific enough I am more interested if there is a wiring harness available so I can just plug it in.
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