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Old 09-28-2010, 09:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to tighten the crank shaft pulley?

Hi all,

So for some weird reason after 230k miles my crankshaft pulley came loose the other day. I thought it was an easy fix and just tightened it up through the access hole by the left front wheel. It came loose again so I took more time and added the use of some thread locker. It came loose again and when I removed the pully I noticed that the key and groove are all messed up so now I will be buying those parts new. I'm thinking of getting one of the aluminum ones off ebay for $40 instead of the $137 stock one from Honda. Any thoughts on those?

Also, how do you tighten the up the bolt without turning the engine over? I have tried putting the it in gear with the e-brake set, but it still turns, and there doesn't seem to be a place to wedge a screw driver in.

Also should I be using high-temp thread locker?
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Dude you are doing everything so wrong. ............

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Originally Posted by j0hnct78 View Post
I'm thinking of getting one of the aluminum ones off ebay for $40 instead of the $137 stock one from Honda. Any thoughts on those?
From what I've read over the years: The crank pulley/balancer is one of the parts on your motor you do NOT want to go cheap on. My opinion? Buy the best part you can find. If that thing all-out fails, your motor may be toast.

Unorthodox Racing has a supposed good rep....but I've read more than a couple horror threads on them failing(even on this site) and a lot of people saying to beware of them.

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Originally Posted by j0hnct78 View Post
Also, how do you tighten the up the bolt without turning the engine over? I have tried putting the it in gear with the e-brake set, but it still turns, and there doesn't seem to be a place to wedge a screw driver in.
It's interesting that you ask this, this is a big topic and you should have found something searching for this.

Honda has a tool that is used specifically for this task. It fits inside of the hex shape in the crank pulley and so you can get the socket through it and hold the pulley still and undo the bolt.


The problem?(very much related to your specific situation based off of your ignorance--it happens) The torque rating on the crank bolt is insane. I think it's 181 ft/lbs.


And this takes me to my primary statement. You had everything so wrong. This bolt is meant to be tightened to 180+ft/lbs, thread locker and a simple retighten is not going to hold that puppy.



You are going to have to get a torque wrench and tighten it to spec--and nothing less--if you want it done right.
You can find the part numbers for the two Honda tools required in the Helms, since I don't know them off hand.

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Also should I be using high-temp thread locker?
Hell no.

Good luck.

Last edited by pIERCE; 09-28-2010 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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For 50 or 60 bucks you could just get Honda to torque it.

I ended up getting them to crack that bolt when I did my timing belt; half hour labour.


Your idea of setting the hand brake with the car in gear to prevent the engine from turning would work on a rear-wheel drive car, but to make it work on the Prelude you’d have to have someone push the brake pedal. While doing this you will be putting some stress on the transmission, but I don’t think it would be significant. The problem is that I don't think you'll get an accurate torque on it because of all the links in the system, including a clutch friction plate with springs on it.

Best bet is to use, or have someone use the proper tools as described by pIERCE. I have seen similar tools at other parts suppliers (Canadian Tire up here sells one for about $33). The torque wrench on the other hand may cost a bit.

To install mine, I did exactly what the shop manual says not to, impact gun. Because it had just been torqued, when I was taking the bolt off again, I gradually increased the setting on my gun until it broke free, then I just used the same setting to install it. I’m not suggesting that would be completely accurate, but it worked for now. Next time I’ll invest in the right tools.

Good luck with it.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok, how would you tighten an after market one that does not have the hex shape built into it?

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Old 09-29-2010, 10:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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^Does anyone know about that crankshaft pulley?

The price says 'dont trust me'
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i would highly suggest you not go with an aluminum crank pulley. if you look at your OEM pulley there is a layer of rubber in it. this rubber is there to absorb vibration that comes from the engine spinning. it works with the harmonic balancer to keep your engine running smoothly. since no engine gives off ZERO vibrations, putting a solid aluminum pulley isnt worth the risk although it may be cheaper or give you more hp. if you do want to upgrade i suggest going with a fluidampr that contains a silicon layer that better absorbs the vibrations. it is about twice as much as an OEM pulley so i would just stick with OEM.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Would a pulley form a H23A1 work?
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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No, dampners/pulleys are specifically matched to the rotating assembly of each motor. Bad idea.....
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah, no reason to risk your motor to save a few bucks. A new pulley from Honda is less than a hundred bucks, do it right or don't bother.
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