I also can not clean the EGR ports out. I can take the "straw" from the carb cleaner and stick it in the port under the EGR valve and I can't pass it through. I also stood the IM on its side and sprayed carb cleaner in and it would puddle up. Am I correct that that port runs from the EGR all the way to cylinder #1?
Good luck. I had to replace my knock sensor, from the bottom since I had no reason to remove the IM. After I dropped the socket wrench on my face for the third time, I decided to take it to a pro. THey had a flex extension that did the trick in 30 seconds...humbling but worth it to solve the CEL.
I am cleaning out the EGR ports. The EGR is not working and is causing a CEL. I am also installing a Hondata insulator gasket "while I'm in there".
So any advice on cleaning those EGR ports? I have the thing standing on end outside (cyl #1 down, cyl#4 and EGR up) with a puddle of carb cleaner just sitting in the EGR port hopefully soaking into the obstruction.
Aren't there freeze plugs in the IM for the EGR ports? I thought I remember reading you've gotta rip them out with a puller tool to get at the ports with a brush . . . then replace with new ones or something. Dunno any details though. I was lucky to solve my insufficient flow problem with some Seafoam.
Just out of curiousity - what was the issue with the nut in question? Bad angle? Seized?
Aren't there freeze plugs in the IM for the EGR ports? I thought I remember reading you've gotta rip them out with a puller tool to get at the ports with a brush . . . then replace with new ones or something. Dunno any details though. I was lucky to solve my insufficient flow problem with some Seafoam.
Just out of curiousity - what was the issue with the nut in question? Bad angle? Seized?
Yes there are freeze plugs in the manifold put I don't have anything to pull them out with. And when I went to the local Honda dealer to get new freeeze plugs they only had one. I was then going to drill out the plug on the end, the #1 end, but I don't have a big enough drill bit. Plus it seems the blockage is in between the EGR valve mounting pad and the #4 runnner. There is no freeze plug there. The freeze plugs are centered over the runners.
I do worry that even if I can remove this blockage near the EGR valve mounting there are other blockages or near blockages in other places. I had no idea this was going to be such a big project.
And the issue with the nut was bad angle/stuff in the way. It is hidden by the oil filter and the water pump pipe from underneath. And it was impossible to try and get a socket & wratchet on it from above, reaching around and underneath the manifold. Once I realized the knock sensor was broken and moved the plug out of the way I got access to it. But even then it required contortionist movements to get to it.
I think thats an awful idea, getting the IM off is a major PITA so putting it back on to "hope" it fixed itself defeats the purpose of removing it. I would think there are other solutions besides carb cleaner that would be able to eat through whatever hte blockage is. I've never read up on any of this so its foreign to me but I never believe anything fixes itself.
I filled up the ports with carb cleaner, let them sit for a few mins, and then used a straw, duct tape and a shop vac to suc as much of that crap out. I did this twice.
She runs!!!! Compressed air, a drill, a kitchen skewer, a clothes hangar, and lots of carb cleaner and I was finially able to clean out the manifold. I drilled a hole in the plug on the side of the #1 runner. I stuck the kitchen skewer down the EGR port to loosen the stuff up. Then I alternated carb cleaner and compressed air at both ends (the EGR valve end and the #1 end) until the long cross-wise passage was clear. Then I bent a clothes hangar with a little hook at the end. I stuck the hangar down the ports and used the hook to break up the carbon in the small holes leading from the cross-wise passages to the runners. Then flushed with more carb cleaner and compressed air. Then I tapped the plug I drilled a hole in and plugged the hole with a 5x0.8 bolt & Hondabond. Whew. Then I had to re-install everything. I also took the chance to change the fuel filter while the intake was out of the way. She runs and (knock on wood) no CEL after three driving cycles.
^^Yes. You might as well plan to do an oil change at the same time. Removing the oil filter will allow better access to the knock sensor. You need a 24mm deep wall socket for the knock sensor. And a wratchet with a pivoting head really helps.
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