I noticed some squealing noise from my right rear tire the past 2 weeks... and the wheel was covered in brake dust.... unlike the other 3. So when i took my car to honda today for the 60k mile service... i wanted them to look at the rear brakes and install new pads if need be....
well they told me the right rear caliper is not functioning properly... that it is not moving, and is stuck. He pointed out that a bolt is broken off/rusted. So he told me i need to get a new caliper. He also said i need to replace BOTH calipers(rear) because when u change only one side, and not the other... u will have un-even pad wear. Is this true? Or can i just replace the broken one? He quoted me $556.00 for the calipers and installation + $129.95 to replace the brake pads. This is for the rear = $685.95.
What should i do? What parts should i replace? Should i stick with OEM? My local wheel/tire shop quoted me $590.78 for rear calipers and pads installed with Lifetime warranty.
That is total bull****. You don't need anyone to replace the rear calipers for you. It's relatively easy and you can do it yourself and save all that labor. I'm not sure what bolt would be broken off. If the caliper seized it's possible that it snapped one of the bracket bolts. You might not need to replace the calipers. It's possible that a rebuild kit could fix your problem. What happened is that the rear piston has seized and won't return to it's normal position. This usually happens if the boot tears and dirt gets in there.
First pull off the caliper and see how bad it is. You can get a rebuild kit from a Honda dealer for around $50 I think. This could be all you need. If it is really badly seized just buy a reconditioned one from an online dealer. I don't see why in hell you would need to replace the working one. You might need to get a rebuild kit for it too just to make sure both rears function properly and with the same amount of effort. You certainly don't need to do anything to the other one except rebuild it. It's not like calipers come in matched sets. A caliper is a caliper. As long as the two rears work, that's all you need.
Ask that service guy if he saw "chump" written on your forehead because that is what he is taking you for.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
go to NTPOG.org and look at the writeup on changing rotors. That is exactly the same process because you have to remove the calipers to do it. The only thing you would have to do beyond that is bleed the brakes. As for rebuilding the calipers, you just get a kit with new seals and a boot I think. You have to get the old piston out of the caliper and clean it up. Look for scoring. If it is still smooth and will move once you clean out the grime then it can be rebuilt. If there is heavy scoring then you probably need a new caliper.
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97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
i took it to a brake shop... and all they had to do was extract the snapped bolt, install a new bolt, and change pads/resurface rotors... good as new... $160.
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