I have been having a problem with my 2000 Honda prelude sh since June. It seemed to all start when my timing belt jumped and had to have a timing job done on it. When I got the timing belt done I began experiencing a bouncing idle on cold start (would bounce from about 1k to 3.5k rpm on start). After the engine would warm up it would continue to bounce from 1k to 2k rpm. If I trun my ac on it would normalize, as in not bounce but sometimes if I was at idle it would out of nowhere start bouncining rapidly from 1k to about 1.5k and the check engine and ATTS light will come on, the sputter/bog like crazy if I tried to drive it like that. I would have to turn the car off and restart to get rid of the low sputter to make the car atleast drivable. I would still have a bouncing idle though even after restart, sometimes even with AC on. I also have lifter noise as well ( like a light tick). I took it back to the mechanic that did my timing he said I needed to have my valves adjusted. I did some research and tried many different things. I chenged plug wires (to Oem), had new plugs put in right after timing job, took the IACV off sprayed screen with car cleaner, replaced TPS sensor and changed the MAP sensor. Please help I can't seem to remedy much less fix this problem. I have read all through these forums looking for ideas.
when I pulled the CEL it initially pointed to TPS sensor voltage. So thats when I just bought a new TPS sensor online and installed it. Honda wanted to sell me a whole new Throttle body saying they didn't sell TPS solo.
well the TPS sensor was the last step i did ( as in 3 days ago) haven't pulled codes again yet, But yes engine light still comes on if I ldle like at red light.
Did you adjust the TPS after you installed it? You need to hook up a multimeter to it and make sure that the voltages with the throttle closed and at WOT are within spec. If not, you can loosen the screws and move it ever to slightly until it is within spec. I believe it is supposed to read between 0.45v and 0.55v with the throttle closed and 4.5v at WOT. Might want to search around here or find a Helms for the correct voltages.
Hmmm. I assume that you got the water pump replaced when the timing belt was replaced. That could mean air in your coolant, which causes bouncy/crappy idle....but it doesn't explain the CEL....Do you know the number of the CEL code?
I also assume that you did a compression/leakdown test to confirm that you didn't bend any valves when the timing belt jumped. Did you check that?
I did adjust voltage on new TPS upon installation (4.5v Wide open Trottle and .5 closed) I have looked all over these boards and learned about that from here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by indylude18
Hmmm. I assume that you got the water pump replaced when the timing belt was replaced. That could mean air in your coolant, which causes bouncy/crappy idle....but it doesn't explain the CEL....Do you know the number of the CEL code?
I also assume that you did a compression/leakdown test to confirm that you didn't bend any valves when the timing belt jumped. Did you check that?
It has very detailed instructions to perform just about anything maintenance related, including bleeding the cooling system. There is a bleeder screw somewhere...but I don't remember where it is at the moment. It's in the manual somewhere....
Here it is: 14 - IAC (EACV): Idle Air Control Valve - P0505 (system malfunction), P1508, P1509, P1519 (circuit failure)
That can certainly cause an uneven idle.
can end up being the FiTV too though right? I ask this because I have already removed the IACV valve and spayed the little screen on it with carb cleaner to clean it up.
Halloween Day, thought I'd try to work at this again before taking the kids out to trick or treat tonight. Also now about 4 months since I been able to drive my lude regularly again. K I took the radiator cap off let the car run to warm watched for bubles rising out of uncapped radiator, no bubbles at all. doesn't seem to be air in coolant then. As I type I have my IAC in my hand AGAIN looking it over I am wondering if I should unscrew and disassemble it. It looks clean. WHen you clean it is it just a matter of spraying carb cleaner onto it? or should I take it apart?
Ok pulled whole throttle body off, took off the the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) opened it up there is a plunger in there that was all the way unscrewed, so I screwed it in by hand (no other way it is a round plastic head piece) put everything back together...and NICE idol now on start no fluctuation, no bouncing happy as hell. Take it for a test run, runs awesome and sounds better than before even. I stop at a stop sign to hear idol, all of a suddent CEL comes on again and starts bouncing short quick bounces (from 1k rpm to about 1.3k rpm). I turn car off right there at stop sign turn it back on bouncing is gone for now until I pull back into my driveway its idle at 1k then again starts short bouncing... gonna do more research. One thing is for certain that FITV needed to be done anyways.
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