Could be your alternator on its way out, I would take it up to an auto parts store where they can test and have that and your battery tested first as a troubleshooting measure.
Thanks a lot for the reply; would there be any other symptoms of a failing alternator I should look out for? My battery never seems low, the car always starts right up, my lights never seem dim...
Thanks for the reply, I suppose that is possible, however it does start every time I turn the key, the problem is that it shuts right back off again. Is this a common symptom of the ignition switch?
Hmm I withdraw my previous suggestion I guess. I'm going to guess it's something with the fuel system. The pump may be going bad and it is not able to hold pressure. It dies as you drive it and then stalls and wont start back up because the engine is no longer getting the correct fuel pressure. If you turn your key to accessory without starting the engine it will turn on the pump and pressurize the system. Once the car is running it might not be able to keep up with the demand of the engine. My ex-girlfriends blazer had a similar problem, I replaced the fuel pump and it was solved. How has your gas mileage been lately?
There was a recall on the ignition switch. When it fials, it cuts all the power to the car, as if you were shutting it off. It will kill all electronics, the fuel pump, the speedo/tach, etc. When you shut the car off, the green key lioght flashes. I'd start there.
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2008 - Nissan Titan LE - Tow / snapper holder
1998 - Nordic mist base - 5 speed swapped "daily beater" type S intake and K&N filter, koyo aluminum radiator
1986 - Mazda RX7 widebody - L92 500hp/550tq "race car"
1983 - Porsche 944 - "weekend / fun car" Weltmeister bushings, #220lb Weltmeister springs, Bilstein HD's F+R, '86 951 front and rear sways, stainless brake lines, Odyssey lightweight battery, low temp fan switch, Schnell SSK, sport seats //future LS1 swap//
Thanks a lot for the feedback, it sounds like it might be the ignition switch, I have an appointment with the dealership tomorrow to see about the recall. If that doesn't fix it, it sounds like the next place to look is the fuel pump, but I hope not.
its not a fuel pump. It's electrical. If its not the ignition switch (I think it is) I'd checkl the main relay next. dont start it and give it gas to keep the revs up. this should be an easy fix.
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2008 - Nissan Titan LE - Tow / snapper holder
1998 - Nordic mist base - 5 speed swapped "daily beater" type S intake and K&N filter, koyo aluminum radiator
1986 - Mazda RX7 widebody - L92 500hp/550tq "race car"
1983 - Porsche 944 - "weekend / fun car" Weltmeister bushings, #220lb Weltmeister springs, Bilstein HD's F+R, '86 951 front and rear sways, stainless brake lines, Odyssey lightweight battery, low temp fan switch, Schnell SSK, sport seats //future LS1 swap//
98auto and SiccLude99, you guys were right about the ignition switch. I just got the car back from Honda and they said it was definitely bad. I am pretty confident that my problem is fixed now, and at no cost. Now only if I could get the car to stop triggering "misfire" codes
I have the exact same thing happening on my 98 with 120k miles except I got the ignition switch replaced in 2004. So does this part just go bad over time?
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