kronn does burn people but it was easy to burn you t jae
IMO
1. 250hp is achievable wo turbo because that is the exact number i am going for. Not only that, approx 1 psi = roughly 10 hp... 12 pounds of boost you will be flying places with other STIs and what not?
2. another h22a4? why... do you like to waste money? at least buy h22a which is jdm AND SLEEVED
3. Sorry man, but you seem like a guy who if had a boosted prelude would kill somebody on the road jk. be safe
i didnt know that the h22a came already sleeved and the a4 is what is already in the car thats y the a4 but ok ill get the h22a but is it a more ready to be turbo'd engine bc of the sleeves or am i still going to have to go into to the block and build it. i am new to this website and to turbos so what most are saying is true but if you or whomever is gonna talk **** like said once before whats the point close my post and go to anotha simple...now thanks to those and you for the information.
__________________
1988 Prelude S - victim of an 80mph backflip
1991 Prelude Si - sold
1989 Accord DX - impounded
1998 Prelude SH - bolt-ons dynoing @ 173whp&140tq
2006 CRF150F - sold
2006 YZ250F
kool thanks for the info...i have two otha cars so break downs, car not starting, and otha bs like that is nothing but for me to lock the door and get in anotha car, but jus not wanting to blow the engine by jus throwing a turbo on it and im surrounded by ford and chevy ppl and every import person seems to run off at the mouth alot (lame) but i will do my research i dont plan on boosting til later just looking to get a parts list together and start buying parts here and there
Don't look to be spoon fed. Boost is an experience. Hopefully you read enough that you don't make the exact same mistake as someone else, not that the same issues won't arise, but, maybe in different ways.[/QUOTE]
ok firtst off the h22a are not good engine to use for a boosted setup as they are close deck design and under extreme duressthis can cause the cylinders to go out fo round and then possibly allow the sleeve to drop. also h22a's are not already sleeved they come facotry equiped with the ssame FRM sleeves the ha22a4's have. The h22a4 is the better of the engines to use for boost as not only is it an open deck block but also because the oil sneding mount can be directl used as an eltronic oil pressure guage feed. anyway man if you are truly interested in boostying oyu h22 the call this guy: Laskey Racing, and discuss getting your sleevs done and blueprinting with Mike Laskey.
last but not least if the only amount of HP you are goin for is 250 then just quit right now. to turbo charge a prelude correctly is an enourmous job and the cost per horsepower is just unreal high. also the list i had written you may be called by some to much and overkill however as soon as you start to realize that by changin any parameters of your cars setup you will ahve to continue chaning things until they all become equivalent in output potential.
at least 250 horsepower, no budget just the more expensive the more time it'll take, motor has 175000 wasnt going to turbo this exact one for sure may buy another h22a4, and thats y i posted the post im doing research asking around to see wat needs to be done n order for it not to blow...anyway thanks for the list thats wat i was lookin for now with that info is all that stuff first listed still nec.? oh n not sure wat kind of turbo yet prolly a t3 t4 though
if your minimum goal is 250hp then why bother with forced induction? 250hp is a pretty modest increase so youd be better off dumping your money into making a nicely built n/a engine that will maintain its reliability. i guess this is my biased opinion cuz i dont like forced induction unless youre going for crazy power.
if your minimum goal is 250hp then why bother with forced induction? 250hp is a pretty modest increase so youd be better off dumping your money into making a nicely built n/a engine that will maintain its reliability. i guess this is my biased opinion cuz i dont like forced induction unless youre going for crazy power.
is that true? that all motor build is more expensive?? this weekend im gon look for different discussions of this matter, but 250 is simply a minimum and i was considering all motor but i like boost... i"m in no rush i just hear a lot of bad things about boosting h series over b or d series but its not to common around here thats my motivation. thanks again for everyone turbo comments..oh and i dont plan on doing this myself im just buying the parts thats why i was looking for a parts list..
N/A out prices low / cheap boost. I'm not so sure when you get into high boost, as you pretty well end up reworking the entire engine either way.
Cheap boost usually implies you don't overhaul internals and run like 8 - 9 psi boost on stock internals, which, in what I've read, seems moderately 'safe'. Truth is though, boost is a less reliable creature in its very essence and you probably want to do things right to reduce risks to your motor. By that I mean, you rebuild. Sleeves, pistons, rods, shaft, valves, everything.
Other things you probably want to consider... cooling: intercooler, radiator, oil cooler; new motor mounts; new axles built for more power; and so on...
As said, research, research, research. There a wealth of information out there about turbocharging, and I suggest you delve into that before you even start asking the specifics about the H22... That way when you do ask questions they can be specific and we won't be starting from the ground up.
__________________
'94 Prelude Si (Heavily Damaged)
'93 Prelude VTEC (Work in Progress) TrackBuilt
IMO
1. 250hp is achievable wo turbo because that is the exact number i am going for. Not only that, approx 1 psi = roughly 10 hp... 12 pounds of boost you will be flying places with other STIs and what not?
2. another h22a4? why... do you like to waste money? at least buy h22a which is jdm AND SLEEVED
3. Sorry man, but you seem like a guy who if had a boosted prelude would kill somebody on the road jk. be safe
There is so much fail here followed by win.
1. PSI means nothing unless we know what turbo you are taking about. Easy example without getting too involved: A big turbo at 7psi can "boost" more than a tiny turbo at 20psi. But remember that 250whp N/A would require a LOT more $ than 250hp at the flywheel.
2. ROFLCOPTER? They are FRM like all the H22's. IDK where you heard that from but I would be more sure about your information before spewing mis-information.
3. You might be right. I rofl when I read that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouckarooo
ok firtst off the h22a are not good engine to use for a boosted setup as they are close deck design and under extreme duressthis can cause the cylinders to go out fo round and then possibly allow the sleeve to drop. also h22a's are not already sleeved they come facotry equiped with the ssame FRM sleeves the ha22a4's have. The h22a4 is the better of the engines to use for boost as not only is it an open deck block but also because the oil sneding mount can be directl used as an eltronic oil pressure guage feed. anyway man if you are truly interested in boostying oyu h22 the call this guy: Laskey Racing, and discuss getting your sleevs done and blueprinting with Mike Laskey.
last but not least if the only amount of HP you are goin for is 250 then just quit right now. to turbo charge a prelude correctly is an enourmous job and the cost per horsepower is just unreal high. also the list i had written you may be called by some to much and overkill however as soon as you start to realize that by changin any parameters of your cars setup you will ahve to continue chaning things until they all become equivalent in output potential.
^ This guy is my new hero on this site for posting that. Listen to him.
N/A out prices low / cheap boost. I'm not so sure when you get into high boost, as you pretty well end up reworking the entire engine either way.
Cheap boost usually implies you don't overhaul internals and run like 8 - 9 psi boost on stock internals, which, in what I've read, seems moderately 'safe'. Truth is though, boost is a less reliable creature in its very essence and you probably want to do things right to reduce risks to your motor. By that I mean, you rebuild. Sleeves, pistons, rods, shaft, valves, everything.
Other things you probably want to consider... cooling: intercooler, radiator, oil cooler; new motor mounts; new axles built for more power; and so on...
As said, research, research, research. There a wealth of information out there about turbocharging, and I suggest you delve into that before you even start asking the specifics about the H22... That way when you do ask questions they can be specific and we won't be starting from the ground up.
I have heard the same thing that most honda engines can take 8 to 9 pounds on stock internals which 8 would be fine i just want it to be reliable...and ok thanks all for the info
1. PSI means nothing unless we know what turbo you are taking about. Easy example without getting too involved: A big turbo at 7psi can "boost" more than a tiny turbo at 20psi. But remember that 250whp N/A would require a LOT more $ than 250hp at the flywheel.
2. ROFLCOPTER? They are FRM like all the H22's. IDK where you heard that from but I would be more sure about your information before spewing mis-information.
3. You might be right. I rofl when I read that.
^ This guy is my new hero on this site for posting that. Listen to him.
I have heard the same thing that most honda engines can take 8 to 9 pounds on stock internals which 8 would be fine i just want it to be reliable...and ok thanks all for the info
I will highly doubt that a completely stock H22 will be anything close to reliable for any length of time at 8 psi of boost.
I may not know as much as some other members about boost and such....but I doubt our engines can reliably hold 8psi for very long.
lol...8 lbs.....maybe on a f20c or f22c; heres the thing about the h22's, the rings are mounted fairly high on the pistons, this is done to help maintain seal on naturally aspirated engines, as soon as you boost on this type of setup you are goin to eventually fold over the rings and lose seal and damage the ring lands. sure you can run 8lbs of boost, but in time(maybe quicker than later or vice verse) you will have a smoke machine that produces no power at all. the h22s require extreme care and attention when boosting or choosing to go with an extreme natural aspiration, just remember the build is only worth the tuning that is done to it.
By the way the cost of building both is about the same; as to get the full potential of a naturally aspirated h22 you should resleeve. Heres the thing with naturally aspirating, you are building the engine up to use about 95-97 percent of what it is capable to have high horse power, when you turbo you are still building the engine up for power however you do not have to run the engine at its limit to realize that power, instead of running it 90-98 percent you are only running it at say 60 or 70 and realizing more power.
In the end ask yourself "how fast do i want to spend" cuz that is exactly what you will be limited by.
Yeah, I've also heard the 8-9 being ran on the lower stock compression H23, not the H22. Generally, from what I've read, it sounds like the H23 is the better choice to turbo. But yeah, I mean, simple rule is, the more power you want out of any given motor, the less reliable it will be, you are taking it away from stock specifications and tolerances, and putting stress on components not meant to be stressed in that manner.
Just be careful, you're playing with a lot of potential damage to your motor when you to forced induction.
__________________
'94 Prelude Si (Heavily Damaged)
'93 Prelude VTEC (Work in Progress) TrackBuilt
Not only will you have to build the engine so it doesnt collapse but you will have to build your tranny too if you want to properly boost your h22 running 8psi "safely"
__________________
1999 Pearl White BB6- Totaled
2001 Phantom Black BB8- Saving up for
Yeah, I've also heard the 8-9 being ran on the lower stock compression H23, not the H22. Generally, from what I've read, it sounds like the H23 is the better choice to turbo. But yeah, I mean, simple rule is, the more power you want out of any given motor, the less reliable it will be, you are taking it away from stock specifications and tolerances, and putting stress on components not meant to be stressed in that manner.
Just be careful, you're playing with a lot of potential damage to your motor when you to forced induction.
this is not correct, the h23 makes a better N/A build; this is because the longer stroke. If you were to turbo the h23 then you can run into rod snap issues.....as the forces coming down on the longer rod cause more stress on the rod therefore causing it to have a higher failure rate. Stock h22 are not meant to be turbo'd; look at the position of the piston rings and you will see that, the rings are located much higher on the piston.
if you want to build up a crazy NA monster then use the h23 w/vtec(good luck finding a timing belt and oil sending unit, among other things...lol), if you want to turbo the better engine would be the h22a4. As long as you build all the parts equally you will have no issues with the turbo. Like i said before a well built turbo build is goin to be much more reliable than a well built NA; this is due to the lower duty cycle of the turbo engine. any way i am just repeating my self.
lastly, the stock transmission is good for about 550 hoprspower and around 400lbs of torque, pending the proper clutch setup is used. as for the axels you can get heavy duty ones but you are looking at a very stiff price, like almost 5 times the amount as a stocker, use the stocker till it breaks then change it out with another stocker(did this with a b18 and it was just as good and much cheaper than the DSS ones). If you are looking to have your trans souped up also then really all you have to do is get carbon syncrodes and get a beefed up LSD, and be johnny on the spot with your fluid changes.
^^^^^^
really? The tranny is good for 550 horsepower?
Would there be a possibility of your flywheel and such cracking due to all the power?
also another question I have is are the limits of the SH tranny different from the limits of a Base tranny? Of course both in manual is what I mean
__________________
1999 Pearl White BB6- Totaled
2001 Phantom Black BB8- Saving up for
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jk. be safe
im sorry no reason to be what? wow ok...
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