Well getting my prelude registered and everything, but i need an "inspection" sticker. My friends shop can give me an official sticker for $120 but my cel is on and they wont give it to me. They offer fake inspection stickers for $80. The CEL is on cause of the primary o2 sensor, iacv, and knock sensor. Should i wait and fix all the issues or just get a fake for now and then buy a real one when i fix the problems.?
Whats the difference between and official one and a fake one anyway? Whats the penalty or chances of getting iin trouble in NJ?
Uh, or pull the radio fuse for 15 seconds. Or to totally clear the ECU memory, pull off the negative battery cable for 15 minutes. Then the CEL will be off, untill it comes back on again. Just pull the cable off when you are right down the street from the shop, reattach it, and drive to get your sticker. Did you really not know how to clear a CEL?
Solid, you can't just remove the bulb unfortunately and here's why...
I bet New Jersey has the same new emissions equipment required by state law that Texas has. With this new system, they actually hook the state-emissions computer up to your ECU and that reads the VIN # off of the ECU, secondly, it will check the ECU for CEL's and third, while the car runs, it checks the ECU's operation compared to the emissions computer testing equipment. This is all supposedly fool-proof for a way that somebody can't bring in another car and get a sticker for their car.
The only way around this is to find a shop that has found a way to hack into the state emissions computer at the shop they're at and enter in the VIN of your car on the final print out to get a legit sticker. Not many shops will know how/want to do this for obvious prison related reasons.
I honestly don't know what to tell you man... short of doing an engine swap annually (and by that I mean going back to stock to get tested) I am unsure of a truly "legal" way you can do what you're trying to do.
I won't confirm or deny how I got my state inspection sticker on here for for fear of big brother watching, haha.
Edit: Oh yeah, and I'm also assuming the reason he has so many CELs is because of all the stuff he's been doing to his motor, not because they can actually BE fixed...
My friend told me to pull the negitive cable but i wasnt sure if it would screw up the chip in my ecu.
prepreludesh has a point, the o2 sensor is throwing a code since my a/f ratio gauge is wired into it, the knock sensor is going off from my chipped p13 that has vtec kick a little earlier then usual.
My friend told me to pull the negitive cable but i wasnt sure if it would screw up the chip in my ecu.
prepreludesh has a point, the o2 sensor is throwing a code since my a/f ratio gauge is wired into it, the knock sensor is going off from my chipped p13 that has vtec kick a little earlier then usual.
1. AFR gauges don't work hooked up to standard O2s very well. You need a wideband O2. Unless you like it just jumping around all over the place.
2. The knock should have been disabled by the tuner
3. Swap in the original OBDII Ecu for inspection
Here they do not hook anything up to our vehicles at yearly inspection. It is all visual based.
Im not sure if I clarified, its a honda shop, they don't inspect anything, as long as the cel isn't on you can buy a sticker for 120 otherwise you can get a fake one for 80, there is no emission testing or anything
It's not too bad, set aside 30 to 45 minutes for it, but the first step is to take a camera and photograph the gauge cluster so you know where exactly the CEL is (you might forget when you're done assembling?) and then move the steering wheel down to the lowest position, then you unscrew the two top screws on the underside of the little overhang over your gauges (you'll see the holes) and then you carefully remove with your hands the whole gauge cluster (it will come out, don't use tools and scratch it up).
Then when you pull it out, disconnect the connectors for the harness in the back (2 or 3 of them I believe?). Now with the whole assembly in your hand, the LED bulbs are as simple to remove as twisting it and removing it. You can leave it empty, it won't hurt anything. Then simply reverse this order and start up your car to make sure your gauges all work again and you're good to go.
And I had just assumed earlier that New Jersey was some Nazi state like Texas and California are, but yeah, that system I told you about really does exist, which makes it sucky for OBD-IIA and newer vehicles, which is sure to be increasingly more difficult for tuners...
its not too hard, just remove your cluster from the car and find which bulb it is, twist and pull it out. shouldn't take more than like 15 to 20 minutes to do.
Thanks alot guys, ill see how long the ecu stays off when i unplug the negative for 15 mins and then i just remove the bulb if that doent work. Thanks again
Yeah, but here in CA, they can tell you've cleared the ecu, and will tell you, "hmmm, your computer automatically failed, have you reset it recently? Just drive around for 25-35 miles and come back and it should be ok to test by then." And that's exactly what they say, because I've tried it before.
So the removing-the-lightbult trick would never work here in CA, since the ecu is still tripping even though the light is "not on".
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