Hi!
Recently I have replaced my clutch. The whole set - bearing, pressure plate, casing. Didn't resurcafe the flywheel though (I guess that's why it's vibrating when engaging)
When I got the car I mmediatly noticed that engaging 1st was kinda tricky. Most of the times when engaging 1st from stand still it doesn't jump right into gear. Sometimes it feels like it's only half-engaged - won't fully jump into gear. I know that if in neutral sometimes it gets tricky to engage 1st gear in a Prelude so I usually put in 2nd gear and than in 1st. But now I seeing this hesitation also in 2nd. We tried to set engaging point a and was fine for a few weeks. While driving though shifting is smooth.
Also - the car has about 100.000miles and I can see master clutch cylinder is a bit moist (insede of the firewall) and the feeling of the cluth pedal is maybe a bit heavier than let's say 50.000 miles ago and feeling when pressing it changed - it gotten somehow mushy (don't know other words to explain it). Fluid level is topped. Should I pont the finger to master and slave clutch cylinder?
Nuts....I'm assuming you know that the fluid is new and at the correct level.
But I just don't think it's the fluid...hmmmmmmmm, and it doesn't do anything like this for ANY other gear?
I guess maybe your clutch could not be completely disengaging and so your trans isn't able to fully engage. But that theory is a stretch, and would require you to tear everything apart again to check for parts in wrong/missing.
Have you checked your clutch fluid(just to humor yourself)?
Fluids are topped.
I could agree with the theory of clutch not completly disengaging the trans. But becaouse it's not happening all the time I won't be pulling the stuff apart But I will a closer eye on master and slave clutch cyl.
I am lost for suggestions now....but then again, I'm tired as hell.
My last guess for now is.....Did you take the car to a mechanic or did you do the work yourself?
If you had it done for you.....then I guess the person that did it took it for a joy ride and slammed it into gear and bent the fork. Ok,. that's a huge stretch and a highly unlikely....but I'm tired. hehehe
AFAIK 1st gear doesn't have syncho...
It's not like I can't engage 1st gear. Sometimes it's difficult. Similar situation like you want to engage reverse and you put it in neutral, release the clutch and that stick it in R.
one vote for linkage. This happens to my friends sh which has never seen a new clutch at 120k miles
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98 XJ, clean and lifted for fresher air and drivability approriate to Northern NV terrain...
01 SH, abused w bdykits &etc, 90% restored to stock
89 crx, power of d series that kept me in 2 digit HP range
AFAIK 1st gear doesn't have syncho...
It's not like I can't engage 1st gear. Sometimes it's difficult. Similar situation like you want to engage reverse and you put it in neutral, release the clutch and that stick it in R.
how do you know that the person who changed your clutch didnt change your mtf with motor oil? idk what fluids are available in slovenia but i would recommend changing mtf with either honda MTF or a known good brand mtf.
me 1st does the same thing you described. i just hold it in 1st and slow let up on my clutch pedal a bit and it pops right into gear. same issue with reverse.
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David
01 SSM SH
93 d15 auto del slo gone and FORGOTTENexcept for a few memories....
@KraserK: haha I read it again and yeah I left out a word or two
dontbuyprelude (now why would you have a nick like that? ): my mechanic works at local Honda shop. So all the fluids are Hondas fluids.
I paid attention to the shifting smoothnes. When the car is roling everything is silky smooth. But when on a red light it takes a bit of resistance engaging 1st or 2nd gear but after It's engaged shiftes w/o a problem.
fyi: all forward gears have synchros. not sure about reverse. since you should be stopped when engaging reverse i dont see the point in a synchro for that gear. anyway, i dont know the severity of your problem going into 1st gear but if its minor i think its pretty normal for preludes to do this. when synchros wear a little bit they start to act funny when trying to engage a gear from a stand still. i think the problem is that the synchro teeth arent always lined up perfectly with the teeth on the side of the gear and since nothing in the tranny is spinning when you disengage the clutch, the collar dont always wanna engage the gear without the synchro being perfectly lined up. you just gotta ease it into gear slowly (i noticed it was worse when id be in neutral when the light turned green and i quickly tried to put it in 1st).
ps-even if your synchros are starting to wear, your tranny still has a lot of life left in it. its only a big deal once your gears start grinding through no fault of your own. if you can live with the "tricky" 1st gear engagement then youre still good for a while with that tranny. hope this helps
fyi: all forward gears have synchros. not sure about reverse. since you should be stopped when engaging reverse i dont see the point in a synchro for that gear. anyway, i dont know the severity of your problem going into 1st gear but if its minor i think its pretty normal for preludes to do this. when synchros wear a little bit they start to act funny when trying to engage a gear from a stand still. i think the problem is that the synchro teeth arent always lined up perfectly with the teeth on the side of the gear and since nothing in the tranny is spinning when you disengage the clutch, the collar dont always wanna engage the gear without the synchro being perfectly lined up. you just gotta ease it into gear slowly (i noticed it was worse when id be in neutral when the light turned green and i quickly tried to put it in 1st).
ps-even if your synchros are starting to wear, your tranny still has a lot of life left in it. its only a big deal once your gears start grinding through no fault of your own. if you can live with the "tricky" 1st gear engagement then youre still good for a while with that tranny. hope this helps
I agree with your first paragraph. So when you say tranny has alot of life left in it you do mean the components or things like synchros right?? Because you should have just said your tranny is fine but your synchros might need replacing soon??? on the lines of that?. Saying that makes me think the whole thing needs replacing e.g. drop the tranny out and get a whole new one which is not correct im sure.
ok... I may or may not have the answer for ya but it's worth a shot.
If you do have troubles getting in 1st gear i makes a lot of sense that the shift fork is bent. I'm sorry to say but thats a buttload of labor.
1st gear to 2nd are connected and shifted from one to another by that one shift fork. Second, R is as well connected because a reverse Idler gear meshes into the synchro collar on same assembly (collar has teeth that mesh to idler gear that meshes to output shaft and viola reverse movement).
So u do need to crack in to your tranny.
2 you do have a leaking master clutch cylinder. that would explain the mushy clutch pedal. Adding fluid is a happy thought but it must be bled to function correctly after leaking and accepting air/contaminations. It is good practice to replace master and slave together because if one fails the other is about due to fail as well. I'm starting to get the same on my lude (94k) and it happened to my old lude about the same mi.
*Note: a lot of people don't know about good/bad manual driving habbits... so.... i thought it would be good to put some here.
1 resting arm on shifter = Bending forks the linkage multiplies your force... u move it 1mm it moves the fork 5mm ie almost shifting it in/outta gear
2 holding clutch to the floor= Wears pilot bearing the support for tran input shaft and can lead to bearing failure in tran.
3 shifting fast/hard= Wears the fork and collar and syncros.
O and for temp fix for you if ur not on top of ur cash is do a clutch bleed find a buddy and just do it.
2 for your tranny change the fluid...
btw honda MTF is the exact same as buying 10-30 or 10-40 motor oil, they gotta turn a profit some how right?
and yeah the flywheel not being resurfaced when you change a clutch is exactly why you are getting those vibrations which i can't say are the best for your tran. but if ur not inclined to drop the tran again or cough up the dough keep it. till the next clutch.
O and for temp fix for you if ur not on top of ur cash is do a clutch bleed find a buddy and just do it.
2 for your tranny change the fluid...
btw honda MTF is the exact same as buying 10-30 or 10-40 motor oil, they gotta turn a profit some how right?
and yeah the flywheel not being resurfaced when you change a clutch is exactly why you are getting those vibrations which i can't say are the best for your tran. but if ur not inclined to drop the tran again or cough up the dough keep it. till the next clutch.
No Honda MTF is not like 10-30 or 10-40 the weight is totally diffrent. Oh and is it bad to fully push the clutch down while changing gears? Honda MTF is what you should use nothing else or synchromesh. Oh and I forgot to say nice pics!
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But I will a closer eye on master and slave clutch cyl.
Ok,. that's a huge stretch and a highly unlikely....but I'm tired. hehehe
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